Bright Orange Poo... 260z!

[juz0]

This is just for reference sake.

If you ever come across 59F21 Idle Jets out of a weber 40 DCOM they have 4x 1.1mm air holes and 0.59mm fuel hole.

They run lean. On mine the mixture screws need to be 3 turns out before it will even start!

[juz0]

nothing too exciting lately. been doing wiring clean up and started on rust repairs.

fixed up the fenders in the usual places. ended up replacing the lh fender because mine had been in an accident and all crumpled up at the front. they used a lot of bog to get it back to original!

 

when i changed the fender I realised the indicators were in different positions. So I had to move one. I liked the lower position from the lh fender so i went with that

 

[d3c0y]

It is but it isnt?! I guess thats why the changed it to Z chassis later on when silvia came out.

 

 

Hate to break it to you but they were making Silvias in the late 60s - Chassis code CSP311

 

 

[juz0]

wow i wonder if any of those still exist.

 

anyway small update. I was having heaps of trouble getting the triples idling right. heaps of lean popping out the exhaust and nothing really seemed to help. I know my idle jets are way too small so I've ordered new ones to try out. For now though I used a handy tool called Colortune by a company called Gunson. Its a spark plug with a glass view hole so you can see the colour of the explosion. Pretty much just  adjust the carbs until the colour is orange then lean it out until it turns blue and that should be where you want it.

 

 

running rich

 

adjust to where the flame is a constant blue colour

 

worked well. idles nice and smooth and rev's up nicely too.

 

here's what my set up looks like now.

 

I've used some of the original hard lines from the efi system and then run the hosing off that. The tee fittings ontop of the carbs are OER fittings. All the weber tee fittings are for the side fuel port but mine are not drilled through so these work a treat and I can still have the filter around the banjo bolt too. Also have a 2mm orifice in the return hose. I don't have a gauge in the fuel line yet but i'm sure thats enough to keep the pressure up in the system.

[Riceburner]

 

Hate to break it to you but they were making Silvias in the late 60s - Chassis code CSP311

 

 

 

So, would the first silvia be an 'S' or a 'C' chassis as opposed to the later model 'S' chassis ? The latter all seem to be 's' series according to the chassis codes. I'm not sure on it all but I'd trade the Z for an early Silvia if it was good, they look awesome.

 

wow i wonder if any of those still exist.

 

anyway small update. I was having heaps of trouble getting the triples idling right. heaps of lean popping out the exhaust and nothing really seemed to help. I know my idle jets are way too small so I've ordered new ones to try out. For now though I used a handy tool called Colortune by a company called Gunson. Its a spark plug with a glass view hole so you can see the colour of the explosion. Pretty much just  adjust the carbs until the colour is orange then lean it out until it turns blue and that should be where you want it.

 

 

running rich

 

adjust to where the flame is a constant blue colour

 

worked well. idles nice and smooth and rev's up nicely too.

 

here's what my set up looks like now.

 

I've used some of the original hard lines from the efi system and then run the hosing off that. The tee fittings ontop of the carbs are OER fittings. All the weber tee fittings are for the side fuel port but mine are not drilled through so these work a treat and I can still have the filter around the banjo bolt too. Also have a 2mm orifice in the return hose. I don't have a gauge in the fuel line yet but i'm sure thats enough to keep the pressure up in the system.

 

Good to see how the color tune works, the real test will be how it goes under load. Looking very tidy so far!

[gav240z]

wow i wonder if any of those still exist.

 

I heard about 40-50 were brought into Australia back in the 60s.

 

I actually saw 1 in Melbourne around the year 2000 - I was at School (so was 18 at the time) and I saw it parked down the road from the school (Glen Eira College). It was that same shade of colour but it was in very rough condition, interior was white and mostly original (although had some 80s aftermarket wheel) and the rear boot was smashed in (looked fixable) and the hub-caps were missing.

 

I remember looking at it and wanting to rescue it knowing it was rare back then! Not sure what it's fate was, I saw it once again in Chadstone car park a couple of months later but that was the last I saw of this rare bird.

 

I saw this video a couple of years ago. It's funny to see how the Japanese fellas interact with a real Aussie bloke from QLD who owns 1.

 

[juz0]

I'm hoping to get the car test drive ready today so I can see how the car acts under load. I'm using the stock dcom jetting except it has aftermarket 33mm chokes. not genuine items being an odd size but oh well, see how it goes.

 

that video was hilarious!

I think you were lucky enough to even see two Gav!

 

for those interested. I'm not 100% sure if these are the stock jetting sizes for the dcom but from reading various forums and people selling them online they all have the same jetting. Here they are

 

Main: 138

Air corrector: 190

Emulsion tube: F64

Chokes: 33 (32mm seems to be stock size)

Idle jet: 59F21

Pump jet: 35

 

 

[CroS13]

One of those original Silvia's sold through Shannon's auctions a few years back, perhaps 10 years? The listing was put up on the Silvia forums, it sold for 11k, was fully restored, looked mint.

 

Rudolf.

[d3c0y]

So, would the first silvia be an 'S' or a 'C' chassis as opposed to the later model 'S' chassis ? The latter all seem to be 's' series according to the chassis codes. I'm not sure on it all but I'd trade the Z for an early Silvia if it was good, they look awesome.

 

 

It would probably be P chassis since they seem to use the last letter:

 

 

PS13

RPS13

HS30

CZ32

BNR32

 

 

etc etc

 

 

Juzo: These kind of carbs are very sensitive to fuel pressure. If you dont have them running 3 - 4psi of fuel pressure you are going to have trouble tuning them. From what i read you dont have a fuel reg and haven't checked your pressure.

 

 

Also you would get more torque running longer velocity stacks on your carbs. Generally with an L, longer is better.

[juz0]

Thanks for the advice! ive read about their sensitivity with fuel pressures. For now its running so its easy to move around to work on. When its time to acutally get on the road for proper testing I'll have at least a guage in there. Its got a low pressure carb fuel pump that supposedly puts out 4.5psi max but wont know for sure until I put a guage in to see how much pressure I'll loose with the orifice/return hose.

 

As for the velocity stacks when I was looking I couldnt find much. The auxiliary venturi finish flush with the front of the carb so I cant use slip ins. I want to get longer maybe 3 - 4 inch. I have since found a place in the uk that sells them for a decent price. So another purchase to make down the track! 

 

For now im focusing on rust repairs again fun fun 

[juz0]

nothing too exciting happening with the car. I went rust hunting and now i have a lot of work to do....

I need to replace both door skins, dog legs behind the doors, both sides of the roof above the doors have holes along the length of them, hatch slam panel rusted out underneath and around the top of the tail light panel. Also my hatch is pretty much rotted out around all four corners where the glass goes... so the same old story from what i've read in other peoples build threads.

 

on a more positive note, I've fitted my Kemari front air dam and my work wheels finally arrived!

 

 

15x8 -6 offset O disk model so it has 96mm of dish!

 

and here is what the car looks like at the moment. That green fender is from a 2+2. I didn't think it would fit but it does!

 

so for now its fit the fender mirrors and more rust repairs.

Any suggestions for what colour to paint the car? I have been throwing the idea of getting the wheel hoops painted black to look like star road edition equip 03's but I was sorta leaning towards getting the car painted orange I think its 918 orange, like the Bingo Sport 432 http://www.wintel.co.jp/vcs_photo/photo1/632-1_000056-1.jpg

 

I'm not a huge fan of shiny shiny so it might look pretty cool 

[Mr Camouflage]

 

wow i wonder if any of those still exist.

 

 

 

There are a couple of members on here that own them

[77260Z]

my work wheels finally arrived!

 

 

15x8 -6 offset O disk model so it has 96mm of dish!

 

 

 

Hell yeah. These will be sweet!

[juz0]

So not much going on with the car until I get paid some more. need to buy rust panels and a decent welder.

what I wanted to show you guys is the rb26 itb set up that millenium motorsports just finished putting together.

 

I originally started with the weber intake manifold, itb assembly and adapter plates.

turned out pretty sweet. the velocity stacks aren't tapered but that's ok its not for a big hp engine.

in the end IT IS CHEAPER TO BUY A KIT FROM OER OR EFI HARDWARE. Just wanted to make that point clear!

unless you have all the gear to make it all work that is.

 

The weber intake has a high silica content so it was pretty hard to weld cleanly.

All thats left for me to finish it off is drill ports in each runner so I can run a vacuum tank, pull it apart, clean and paint.

 

once its all going in the car (not for ages yet) I've got to get an ecu, wire it up and get it tuned. For now its just playing with the throttle and making car noises with my mouth...