Simestime

Ok i'll try to download pics now and see how i go. Yes every notch on the ridge capping.Pain in the ass.Also cutting the angle at top on the side walls. The 2k for concrete was including other stuff.It took 7 cubic meters at around 220 per cube(about $1800 with saturday delivery).Reo i got from work at $180 for three sheets (cheap),formwork and other related tools were a bit more,but i had most of it. Mainly it was me putting it together with a hand from the missus to hold things plumb as i screwed it off.(the shed not the missus!) I poured the slab on the 29th sep.Waited 2 weeks before drilling dynabolts and done a few hours after work almost every day and most weekends.So if you put man hours on it id say 2 weeks if it were constant just for the shed.But planning building approval,groung excavation,formwork and drainage are the most time consuming. Had to wait 7 days after painting the floor too.But now the shelves and work benches are in there i can sort out where to put everything.

The shed is 5x8 with a 3m roller door on the end and 2 bays of 3m and one at 2m.eave height of 2.4m and centre at 2.8m.I havent totally set it up yet but seems to be perfect for space around the car.I'll get some pics later today when its setup and organised a bit better. Most quotes were around 6k for the kit and found this one for just over 5k.All bluescope steel with colourbond trimdeck,gliderol door and a bolted frame.12mmx 150mm dynabolts hold it all down.I put down a fairly hefty slab(25mpa,350mm trenches all round and 140mm on average in the middle.and 8mm ribmesh) that i poured and prepped, with concrete costing 2k.Once i hook up power it should be around 10k finished including council approval that was 1200.Im from the civil construction industry so done the lot myself but for someone else to do it, you can double that cost.I have painted the floor in heavy duty paving paint(smoke grey) and have a clear light whirlybird to go in yet above the work benches.Really happy with how it turned out but wouldnt use that company again just because of plans being inaccurate and very generic to all size sheds and not a specific plan.I picked them up on footing placement for the end walls and the sales dude couldnt tell me anything.The computer program placed them inncorrectly on engineering drawings so luckerly i questioned it.The top capping had to be cut and notched on every rib,that was a pain in the ass.Some hardware i run out and had to buy more and some had heaps of leftovers.I didnt build the shed in the 7 day window after delivery so couldnt claim the loss. Every company i spoke to were really nice about a sale until i told them i was building myself then turned a bit cold and tried scare tackticks to get them to build it.

Well power wise im looking at around probably 200 hp at the crank but low and mid tourque on a street driven engine needs to be up mainly.Being a nissan datsun man all my life,i do like high revs too.I guess id like power between 2000 and 6000.So both the cams and heads are capable,but which will do it easier?The tighe cam has a nice high lift with springs and rocker assembly to match.That will probably be the better torque cam out of the two,but would it be better on the e88 head,with higher c/r ? The n42 has had valve unshroulding at the shop and i have port matched to the inake and carbs.Slight shave and mill.I have always been led to believe that you shouldnt port the intake, only the exhaust for the street to keep the air moving.So ill just take at bit off the short turn and smooth out the ridges on the exh. The efi e88 im not sure of work yet until i strip it down.I took the manifold off to see it had injector notches and took the rocker cover off to see the cam. Ok so thats 1 for 1 on choice selection.Keep the advice coming.

Hi guys,after a long 4 months of buying a new house and building a 5x8m shed,i am finally ready to get back into my resto.One thing that has been eating away at me (other than not being able to do anything on the zed)is which head to use when the time comes.I have done plenty of research on the heads i have and im torn in what to use,so im after advice from eveyone that has run different combos and knows the difference in performance. I plan to run(and have) an l26 bottom with flattops,triple 45's, elec dizzy,2 into 1 extractors into 2 1/4'' exh,original 5 speed(1/75 model),and original r200. Ok now i have three blocks 2xl26 and an f54 l28.Both l26's are pretty fresh rebuilt and the f54 has serious scoring from previous owner.(but id like to stay with l26 for original and less cost of rebuild).The heads i have are an efi e88 with c grind cam and external spray bar.The other is a n42 with tighe cam .490 lift and short duration like 248 or something and 112 lobe centres,and set up by a workshop that knows datsun heads. Reseach has told me most peolpe have n42 heads on na engines.while race guru's recommend the efi e88. Id like the cr to stay up around the 9.5 to 10:1 so a longer duation cam would loose that.its going to be a street driven car so low tourque is a must. Apparently theres not alot of difference in the combustion chamber but isnt the e88 a closed chamber and the n42 an open?(i havent taken the e88 head off the running engine yet) Anyway im open to options and opions so i can make my mind up and stop thinking about it constantly. Thanks.

Is it too late to grab the gearbox mount if it hasnt sold?

Has anyone made an air box for the triplets?Two reasons i want to make one is for the cold air with a pod in the nose and two for some where for the crankcase and head ventilation to go for a roady(via a catch can).I have the 63mm weber ram tubes so it should get 50mm?? or so in front before hitting the side in the bay.The catch can i have has 14mm?? pipes in and out,is it ok to reduce the size down this much if both top and bottom hoses were going in?

Hey thanks for the heads up on the bonnet but it seems a bit over priced for the amount of rust in it.I seen one on ebay a couple of weeks ago along with front half of car on a 240,all restored and fresh paint, it only went for a fraction over $200!!It was in sydney so i didnt bother bidding.Was that anyone from this forum?Looked real nice.Anyway my bonnet is only rusted along the nose so its not as bad as alot ive seen out there.

Member 44014 i have PM'd you. The cam spec i was given were incorrect,its a tighe cam grind 462C.It will be too small for triples by the looks,so anyone want it?(Not free,swaps maybe)Heres the tighe cam link: http://tighecams.com.au/cars.htm

Yes indeed the sss is cool.Its pretty much a z with a shorter nose with a 4 pot.I have owned 4 of them and they all had twin su's.The best one was a 73 model that i got from a guy near Hobart,it was a fully worked l16 from the race track with every mod you can think of,koni's,lovell sway bars and springs electric fuel pump etc.I was young and dumb and racing in the wet and it didnt win with a traffic light pole and bannana'd the car.The pole hit just in front of the drivers front tyre,perfect wrap straight in straight out of the pole,split the windscreen and cracked the gearbox.The indent rested on the block where the fuel pump would have been.I still have a sob over that car.But did teach me a good lesson that in the wet you cant go WOT on 2-3rd gear changes with a car that has bald tyres.Hence i have never had an accident since then(20 years ago).(Touch wood!!).I have pics actually.I miss that one. :'(

Heres an old pic of a pic of the red transition.

As you can see i have done the rust spot under the pedals.Im not too bad on the welder so its a challenge doing real thin metals like the front on the bonnet .Does anyone have a bonnet for sale???Also behind the dash i have cut and plated back up.Heres a pic of that one:note when i took the dash out there was already a cut section and the one next to it was forgotten!!!Also heres the 45 bad boys all jetted ready to go.

Bugger i had a few pics but they didnt go through,maybe too big.ill try again.Cool sorted now with the more attachements button

Ha the 300zx did go good with only 220k when i had finished with it a vg30et 5 speed and a little more boost in the winter.The missus didnt like it as it was the "gay car " going from a nicely restored 180b sss.And after the 300 i went to the gq patrol......that is a shock to the system.The 260z was purely bought as a long term anal retentive resto.The story behind the 260 is i got it in brisbane about september-october last year from a bloke that had brought it across from south oz with him.He resprayed it and had a reco engine put in.It sat for 7 years once he did the move to brisbane and was expecting a baby so the car was sold to me. before that is anyones guess.He got it from a car yard so nothing can be believed there.Its number is grs30-005198,black inside in good condition.Lots of work to be done as i have not got heaps of time as my handbrake(missus)works very well.Heres some pics:

Thanks for the warm welcome guys. Its been a few years now since i was on a forum and that was the 300zx club.The main reason i ditched that car is because it was such a bi*%h to work on.I used to say to myself while trying to tap new threads in the exhaust manifold"this would be so much easier if it was a datsun,i dont have little japanese hands"And all the wiring under the bonnet was starting to perish from all the heat that couldnt get out. Im on the northside of brissy about 5 mins from lakeside raceway and hear it when somethings happening there. Cheers Doug for the offer ill keep it in mind.The n42 head i have was done up in brisbane at the godzilla workshop and the cam was ground by a very competent workshop also.The setup was intended for a street L24 turbo setup so its not ported only valve unshrouding and all seats, rockers etc all prepped up.Just wondering if the e88 efi head will be better though as it has a closed chamber and i have new flat tops that will put C/R 10:1 as opposed to 9.3:1 with the n42.Im putting on a 280 dizzy with total advance at 15 above idle,no vac advance with webers and set at 18 BTDC.Please correct this if im out,ive been searching alot for info and its hours of work,and not always correct.

Hey there .After almost a year of getting most of my info on this site i thought its time to join up.I have found this site to be really helpful in getting an idea of where im heading with my zed,thankyou.I have always been a datsun man and have owned several 180b sss,bluebirds,a 300zx,patrol and finally what i always wanted a 260z.So about my zed currently........Its a 260 2+2 1-75 model with all original gear except the engine(which is a bummer but....).It was originally silver but is now blue(i will be going back to silver,maybe).It has a bit of rust but the previous owner had a go at chopping some out and has slowed it down for me,but some areas were just bogged and sanded.It had jag su's on it that i swapped back to flat tops......for the time being.The L26 thats in it was rebuilt in 1990 and an e88 efi head put on,it has sat for nearly 10 years now and probably only 60k done on engine. So my plans are to restore the zed to nice original shape without flares or bob tail or engine conversion.I have a set of 45 dcoe 13's refurbished,a n42 reco head with 265 duration 112 lobe centres and .480 lift.Hopefully this goes well but we'll get to that later. Anyway enough said for an intro ill put some pics up when i can as i have been chopping rust and welding panels its probably old news to all of you.