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Hi, Interested in driver side door (RHD) or passenger side (LHD). I'll contact you. Cheers Steve

Hi guys, Can someone tell me which carb (front / rear) has the short or long float needle. I removed both carbs from the car not realising that they front/rear specific because the float needle length's are different. Thanks Steve

Good on ya for taking the gamble and buying it. I know a guy who has been looking for years and will probably still be looking because he is too picky. One of those dreamers who wants an A-class condition car but is not willing to pay the appropriate asking $$. Even with the amount of rust so far I think it's still a good buy Des. When I was inspecting my Z before I bought it I took along with me a small magnet which I used to test whether an area had bog or not. It's a very simple and crude method but it works. You can quickly tell whether an area has no bog or heaps of bog based on the intensity of the adhesion. Same thing applies if an area is rusted away, it usually won't stick that well.

Great buy. Knew it wouldn't last long!! Looking forward to your build diary.

So i guess its sold to Iceburg ? If I didn't already have my 260 I'd buy this

$7k neg is a pretty good starting price but I wonder how bad the rusted floor is.... and if the floor is rusted there's a good chance it's hiding other nasties elsewhere.

Love the attention to detail. Love your work Scott.

Very nice looking 240z mate. What's the rule down in Melb regarding driving around town with historic/club plates on non event days ? I know in NSW you can't drive unless there's an event on

I'm guessing it doesn't matter if I accidentally score or mark the top of the valve spring retainers during the prying process ?

Tried to remove the rocker arm to texta the wipe surface and see what the wipe pattern is but I can't remove the arm. I was under the impression that once the rocker arm retaining spring is removed the arm should be pretty easy to remove. Not so in my case. The valve spring seems to be pushing against the arm. What's the best method to compress the spring ?

Hi guys, I'm after a pair of cork gaskets for the round top fuel bowls. Mine were warped and can't be re-used. Does anyone have a pair they would like to sell or know where I can get it? Thanks Steve

Zedman - I had a closer look. They look to be all the same height. Gareth - Just looking at them in situ they seem to be the same height but I guess they need to come out and measured with a micrometer or at the very least verniers. This is how they look. cyl #6 cyl #4 Does anything look obviously wrong from this angle of the engine ? How can you tell if it's a stock cam or aftermarket ?

I'll have to take the rockers out and do a wipe pattern check. I'll also measure the lash pad thickness and report back. I measured the gaps with the lobe pointing up.

Thanks for the reply Dave. To answer your questions. " what clearance can you get with the adjusters wound right down ? " - I'll have to put the feeler gauges on and get back to you. "What is the history of the engine ? " - No idea. I bought it off the 2nd owner and never asked him about the engine. It did come with 240z round top hitachi's so there was some fiddling around. "Any chance it has had a different cam put in it ? " - No idea. What does the OEM cam look like ? Can you visually tell just by looking at it? "Have the valves been replaced ? " - once again no idea. The owner I bought it off never mentioned anything about engine work being done. I'll have to remove the rockers, texta it and reinstall to see what the wipe pattern is like. Also I noticed in your last pic you inserted the feeler gauge on the valve side not the adjusting nut side. Is there any difference which side you insert the gauge from ? Do the lash pad's simply pop off or are they screwed in ? If all I need is thinner lash pad I could mill off some material at work.

The adjuster post is lowered as far as possible. How do you remove the rocker ? A pic of the cover off cylinder #4 lobes cylinder #6 lobes Do the lobes look ok ?

Enzo - it's definitely wound down not up. Wounding it up with reduce the clearance. I need more clearance. Dave - No I haven't checked the wipe pattern. This is the first time I've heard of this term. I'm pretty new to valve adjustment. What does the standard cam look like ? Gareth - Yes I am turning the motor so that each lobe is pointing upwards and I'm measuring with feeler gauges at the heel.

Hi guys, Tried to adjust the valves on the L26. All of the valves were off. Managed to adjust all except the number 4 and 6 intake valves. I have run out of adjustment. I have unwound the adjustment nut as far down as possible yet the clearance is still not within spec. Am I doing something wrong ? Shouldn't there be ample adjustment both ways. Loosen the jam nut and lower/raise the adjustment nut as required..

Hi Gordo, What happen to the passenger side half shaft in the last couple of photos. Looks like it's in 2 pieces.

"The original 240Z is not really a pure sports car, it's more like... lifestyle, and trendy." Ooch !!

Thanks Grae. It was by chance really that I got her but I'm glad I did. I'm trying to get my hands on a 240k GL now. I've seen it around my neighbourhood being driven by an old gentlemen. I have thought about following him until he stops and ask if he wants to sell but I chicken out every time. I think I've gathered enough balls now to approach him, at least give him my details so if he ever wants to sell to give me a yell. Thanks for the info Taylor. I'll have a closer look this arvo. Cheers Steve

I can't remove that bracket Gav. It's tack welded at the bolt head. Not sure whether this was done at factory or by the previous owner. I'll take a photo to show.

Few photos of the parts removed so far. I must admit I was a bit worried as to the condition id find the chassis in with the panels and carpet removed but it doesn't look that bad so far. There was a bit (1-2mm) of filler just above the passenger side tail light where the hatch comes down. Thankfully it was only in that corner and not the entire length from left to right. I'm having troubles removing the quarter panel shown below. I have removed all the panels connected to or adjacent to this quarter panel and the panel itself moves freely but I can't seem to get the panel free. The lower bracket for the hatch strut is in the way. I don't want to bend or flex the panel in case I snap it. I've done a search and it seems flexing/bending/slow manoeuvring the panel around this bracket is the only way to get it free.

Interesting build. I'm so envious of the ample space you have to work on the Z, the hoist and a milling machine as well ? What else do you have in that shed of yours Grae ?

Update. Got the bloody tail lights out. The gasket were pretty old and that bonded the lights to the chassis. It took a fair bit of force to push it from the inside out but. Now to undo the interior trimmings.

Yep I have removed all those plastic clips at the top under the hatch lid. I see the two rivets behind the number plate. Where are the 4 screws located ? I can't see these screws. The only fasteners (nuts) I can see are the ones from the back of the lights going through the chassis from inside. There's about 5 iirc per tail light. Other than these nuts, the plastic clips above the garnish / under the hatch and the 2 vivet's behind the lic plate I can't see anything else holding the light shroud & light assembly to the chassis. I'm hesitant on using excessive force in case I damage the shroud. I'll give it another shot this afternoon.