boost

Hi, Does the distributor come with the E12-80 module and the associated fixing brackets needed to mount it to the motor ?

Thanks for the replies gents.

Hi guys, The skin on my 260 (2 seater) driver side is damaged and needs replacing either with another complete door or just the skin. Anyone got one for sale ? Cheers Steve

should I change the oil inside the oil bath and giving the plunger a clean ?

Would the haynes manual have instructions on how to clean the fuel bowl and float needle ? I've never touch a carby in my life... guess it's time to learn. It's a Hatachi SU round top btw. Seems to go into gear pretty easily. It's the lack of power when I rev it that causes the car to want to stall up the drive way.

Thanks. So the car arrived today. Drove it up the steep drive way and it almost didn't make it up, felt like it was going to stall. I need to fix this problem. The fuel in the tank is extremely old. I don't know when the spark plugs and leads were last replaced. I don't know if the previous owner has played around with the carby adjustments. Would changing the fuel, spark plugs and leads make a difference to the sluggish performance. I don't need it to drive well but at least make it up and down the drive way without hesitation/stalling.

Yep it's exciting to see the interior bits all still there. I want to find out if there is most rust than I think but don't want to hit it with a flap disk yet. Only time will tell I guess. Still pretty stoked with the purchase.

Hi guys, Well after a month or so of roaming the internet I have finally found the car ! It's a silver 1974 260z. Bought it off the 2nd owner who originally bought it off an old lady. The car has never had an accident so it's structurally sound. The gentlemen I bought the car from has owned it for 26 years. It was registered for 6 years before he took it off the road and stored it away in his shed. While in the shed a smaller garden shed panels fell onto the drivers side door damaging it. It has a bit of rust on the driver side sill at the top corner Couple of rust holes on both front fenders on the top, don't know how these got here. Bit of rust on the battery holder and dogbones. I was worried there would be more rust on the dogbone but it seems to be pretty firm when I press against the panel with my thumb. It's got a couple of cracks on the dash and the seat covers need replacing as well. The windscreen has a massive crack so that will also need replacing. Everywhere seems to be in pretty good nick. The metal in the boot and floor round the seats looks to be in really good nick. Is there a test I can do to see how far through the rust has penetrated especially along the bottom side of the chassis beneath the doors. I'm trying to avoid hitting it with a flap disc or wire brush to remove the paint to inspect the rust properly. It's a matching engine & chassis. All the interior parts and panels are all there, all electrics works. The motor starts and she drives. Anyway here she is. Original paint. Faded as you would expect. Cheers Steve T

do the 2+2 doors fit the 2 seaters?

Thanks for the advice gents. The main reason I wanted to restore from the ground up is so I can be sure it is done properly and rust free. If I bought one already registered I'd be paying the $20k+ for one and still won't have the peace of mind it is rust free which would mean taking it off the road and stripping it back to bare chassis to restore. So I figured id buy something that needs full resto and buy it at a cheaper price. If it's going to cost me $25-30k to full restore one then I'm ok with that. Spending my own time fixing it isn't an issue either and I have all the time in the world. I've built from the ground up a Clubman (lotus 7 type car) and got it engineered and registered. Took me 4.5 - 5 years so I've got the patients and in no rush to get it on the road.

Still Looking..

Hi Mark, Thanks for the offer mate. i believe your car is an auto ? I'm after a manual, just so I don't have to look around for parts to do the auto to manual conversion. If I don't find the right car I may consider it later on. Cheers Steve

Thanks. I wonder if I have gained enough experience during the clubman build to tackle a full resto ?

Why is it obvious Peter ? It could be a 4age 20V or a SR20DET ? The performance isn't too bad I guess. Could do with a turbo strap to it but I'll enjoy driving it for at least a year before I tinker with it again.

How do you know its got a 2L under the bonnet?

Ok thanks guys. Makes sense. 1 ID plate showing chassis number and engine number. It was a stupid question really. PetterAllen, yes I have. Why ?

How can you tell if the chassis number matches the engine number ? Is there a register to refer to ?

G'day guys, Though I might introduce myself seeing as I'm planning on purchasing a Z to restore and will be more active on this forum. I have always liked the 240/260z 2 seaters but it was a toss between purchasing a Z to restore or building a clubman from the ground up. I made the decision 5 years ago to build a clubman instead and put the Z project aside until I have built and registered the clubman. 5 years has passed, the clubman went through the whole engineering process and passed and is now on the road. That means it's time to start looking for a Z. I have post on the Wanted section of the forum looking for the right 240/260z. This is the clubman as is. Still needs to be painted. Hoping to find the right car soon! Cheers Steve

Hi guys, New to the forum. I'm after a 240z or 260z 2 seater. One that requires ground up resto with minimal rust and most parts still on the car. I'm located in Sydney but am willing to buy interstate. Thanks. Steve