boost

were they glued in during factory assembly ?

Ever since getting the car home I haven't had much time to work on it. Over the long weekend I managed to find a couple of hours free so I started stripping the rear of the car. I'm having troubles removing the rear tail lights. I removed all the nuts on the inside and those plastic clips on top thinking the tail light and shroud would simply slip right off but it didn't. What's the secret to removing the lights and shroud ?

Just want to tidy it up really. I think the previous owner fixed it there for easy access of the fuses and relays. I'll most probably tuck it all under the dash.

I'm interested in getting some beating tools too. Do you have a website with the tools you sell and prices ?

Do you know if the 260 engine loom connects straight up to the under dash loom Mark?

Good points gents. The car does have what seems to be fog lights beneath the grille. The wiring looks really messy. I might relocate it under the dash.

Nope, there's no alarm or ac. Duck tape fixes everything

Very true.

I thought so. No idea what they are connected to Gav. Haven't had the time to have a good look around. I suspect they might have something to do with the after market equalizer and radio the previous owner has attached under the dash next to the bonnet latch. That may explain for 2 relays but not the other 3.

Hi guys, I've noticed in my engine bay there is at least 5 relays and a bunch of wiring compared to many photos I've seen on the internet. Is this what the factory wiring looks like and the photos I've seen are of cars which has had there wiring cleaned up or has the previous owner added some extra electronics to the car ? Cheers Steve

The frame is in good nick Gav. It's only the skin that needs fixing / replacing. I thought it might be easier to simply replace the entire door if one was available. I think it is possible to beat the panel back into shape. There are a few gouges that will need patching up though. I saw your WTB panel beating tools and thought maybe I should give it a go myself

I may be interested in a drivers door if Wings isn't and you're willing to separate the doors Tai. Assuming it fits a 74 260 2 seater?

Thanks Gav. Do you know if the door skins are the same even though the internal structure is different ? I think I'll need a new drivers door skin and would help to know my options.

would i be correct to say that all the panels on an early 260 is interchangeable with the 240's?

This thing looks bloody amazing Roberto. Love it !

Hi guys, I'm thinking about replacing the dizzy in my 260z for a Petronix unit. I contact a supplier from the US to recommend me the right Petronix dizzy for the L26. They want to know exactly what dizzy I have in my car now so they can recommend the correct Pertronix dizzy instead of assuming the US L26 is the same as the AUD L26. This is the dizzy in the car atm. Can you identify what it is. Thanks gents Steve

It won't be inside a garage. It resides on the drive way with a car cover over it. The cover is excellent in keeping it dry when it rains. I'm more worried about the moisture making its way into the chassis rail while it is sitting there. I'm thinking of filling it up with the rust converter stuff then plugging the hole up so no more water/moisture can find its way inside the chassis rail.

Hi guys, Been busy with work so I haven't had any time to work on the 260 since it got dropped off, only had time to get a better look inside and around the car. The floor seems to be in pretty good nick. The boot carpet seems to be ok to reuse but the carpet in the cockpit area has gone rock hard and crumbles to bits so that will need replacing. The chassis rail on the drivers side seems to be ok along the whole length, however on the passenger side under the passenger seat area there is rust. I picked at it and managed to create a hole the size of a 5cent coin so I suspect it will only get bigger if I pick at it some more. I won't have time to work on the for a long while. I want to slow down the rusting process. If I pump rust kill or etch primer into the chassis rail and plugged it up would that slow down the rust until I find the time to fix the problem properly ? Some photos.. What is this ?

welcome Hokin. I too recently joined the forum. What's wrong with the 260z ?

How do you know if your car is running both or just a single mechanical pump ? Where is the electronic pump located? edit. Never mind, found out the 74 260z have mechanical pump only.

Hi guys, As the title says I'm chasing a 280zx distributor with the E12-80 module and the mounting plates. Anyone got one for sale ? Cheers Steve

Thanks David. Will give it a shot.

hahaha. sorry was having one of those moments.

thanks Enzo. Any info on how to drain a tank ?

Hi guys, Have never touched an L series motor before and I think it's time for me to learning in preparation for the 260 resto. The car has been sitting in the shed for around 20 years and gets the occasional start up once in a while. The motor runs like crap and barely gets up my drive way. I think the carby and motor needs a bit of tuning. I've found info on the web on how to check and refurb the SU carbs but not much on how to check valve clearance, in particular how to set #1 cyl to TDC before you can check the clearance. Is there a good service manual with detailed explanations and photos on this ?