Andrew_L26

Ah awesome, thanks guys. I'll probably just go to bursons and ask for that part number as I've found Bursons is actually a little cheaper then online in most cases Andrew

I was lucky enough to get my flywheel bolts with the flywheel, my TAFE had a spare bolts tub and I found the correct bolts for the bellhousing there (as the 280zx box was bigger and required longer bolts)

I just did a 5 speed conversion in my 260z, I got my box for 200 with stacks of free parts included (oil filters, belts, door rubbers, thermostat etc.) Flywheel, clutch pressure plate, manual brake pedal with bushings and throwout bearing for 250 (brand new clutch kit), pedal modified 65$ new master and slave for $85 and a clutch line for 40$. Fitted it at my TAFE yesterday and everything works great. All in I spent about $650 which I think is pretty good considering that the gearbox seems to be in really good condition except for a tiny bit of shifter play from side to side which I have a feeling is going to be there regardless of the box you get. If you need a hand with anything let me know. I did see someone selling a flywheel, clutch and pressure plate in Tasmania for 20$ which could be good, you can just get a new clutch and the flywheel machined (got mine done for 180 with a new exedy cutch) http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/deloraine/engine-engine-parts-transmission/parts-clearout/1107938764

Hi all, finally got my manual box in and all its missing is the reverse switch and flywheel cover (goes over the bottom half of the flywheel engine side) I will probably just modify my auto one or make one so I'm not too worried about that however I do need a reversing switch as it's just got a short bung in it at the moment. If anyone has any of these parts let me know! Thanks, Andrew

Just around the corner from me, I might have a look at it if anyone is interested. 1974 Datsun 260Z Coupe, http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/mount-evelyn/cars-vans-utes/1974-datsun-260z-coupe/1107575420 Price: $27,000 Andrew

I guess the front frame rails! If I win can I win new front frame rails...I need new front frame rails....

Also, I'm wondering how the throwout bearing carrier height, pressure plate height and gearbox all match up as I'm using a 76' 5 speed and an l28 flywheel, pressure plate, throwout bearing carrier. I assumed that the bearing carrier and pressure plate just had to match up (my two are out of the same unit) however I'm not 100% sure. Anyone know how it all works? Andrew

Hey mate, thanks for the reply. I actually ended up going out and buying a new clutch/pressure plate this afternoon, I thought I might as well get a new one now rather then later. They are machining my flywheel for a really good price as I'm using them as my clutch supplier. I ended up getting a exedy oem replacement, I was considering getting the "Heavy Duty" version as I have plans to turbo my motor in the future however it was going to be about 170$ more expensive and the bloke working there said it's probably not worth it, giving only 30% more "grip" Thanks for the offer though! If I didn't get a few extra dish washing shifts last week I would have jumped at it Yeah, I haven't either. The guy at my clutch and brake shop was pretty impressed too haha, at least I know it's definantly a Datsun part Thanks for your replies, -Andrew

Hi all, Just purchased a flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and a few other parts and I was wondering if they are in usable condition. I'm not expecting much out of them but if I could get 5,000km's out of the clutch I'd be happy. The flywheel and everything is pictured below, the clutch has a small crack in it which is what I'm most worried about (thinking it could shatter etc.) I'm not worried about the life of it all as long as it's capable of getting me to places to get other things fixed (temp rego stuff) until I can sort it out properly or the clutch wears out totally. Here are a few pictures. Before I attacked it with steal wool and a little water (to stop those yummy asbestos fibres from flying everywhere) Flywheel surface Pressure plate (could be sanded and cleaned a bit more) Clutch crack As I said, I'm not worried as long as they will last a little bit and not damage the car or transmission Let me know you're thoughts Thanks Andrew PS. I'll stop spamming the gearbox section with questions now PPS Is there any way to know If I have the correct pressure plate/throw out carrier combination?

To be honest, the vinyl isn't such a terrible thing. It does breath slightly allowing moisture to escape however if it has been on there for a long time and the paintwork isn't fantastic underneath it will pull off a large amount of paint. Could be seen as a good thing to some, annoying to others. If I had more money I would consider getting these two, I couldn't justify ripping apart the 73" though. I did see a freshly written off 240 at the Z shop a few months back (White, was at Melbourne Datsun Day) which would be nice too Although it might not actually be a write off, I've seen the front sections grafted onto the z's (Is that actually legal/worth it?)

Here is a video of my problem, I hope it is only the plastic bushings... https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-7sJCmAZ6KaLTNWZ3dxOGd2ME0/view?usp=sharing Thanks all! Andrew

They seem fine and the movement isn't in the bushings but the whole unit itself, I'll look into it though

Hi all, I've just purchased a 5sp gearbox for a manual conversion and I've noticed it has a fair bit of side to side movement when in gear. The rest of the box feels quite tight but I do want to sort out this slop before I get it installed if possible. I took out the "stopper pin" and it appears that could be the cause of the slop, or rather the groove that it sits in. Here is a photo from the factory service manual. I was wondering how this should be fixed, I was thinking that if I could get it out it could be welded up then ground down for a tight fit. I'm not 100% sure that this is the issue however all the shifter bushings are in good condition so I doubt it's them. Any ideas? Thanks, Andrew

I'm going up from Melbourne to (near) Wagga Wagga tomorrow morning and coming back the same day, I will be taking a corolla with nothing in it on the way up and a manual transmission in the back in the way home. Give me a yell ASAP if you need anything taken either way. Andrew

Bit of a shame you're letting her go, hopefully she stays within the Auszcar family so we can still see her at events!

My shop actually said that the ball joints need to be replaced, I'll get them done ASAP! Yeah I know, I was really disappointed. I took them back on my own and they are currently down at a wheel restoration shop. The garage has been really good about it and have organised to have them fully restored. I'll let you all know what happens with the wheels when I get them back. Andrew

Sounds good, I'll grab some next time I'm out!

Thanks mate, I defiantly feel more positive! Whilst on the topic of leaks and sealing stuff, what are people using to seal the seams in metal, I was just going to use a silicone based sealant.

I've got dat240z's old wheels running 235/45 on a 7.5" +4 in the rear of my 2+2 with absolutely no rubbing issues at all, I'm thinking I might even try a set of 245's as there appears to be plenty of space. I've got 205/40's in the front and they fit fine however I would like to go slightly wider and higher profile for my next set. Anyone have any idea what the largest tire could be on a 17x7.5 +4 in the front as I'm keen for slightly higher profile tires for my next set. Just thought I'd add some 2+2 action in here, I'm pretty sure that the 2+2 rear fender lip is quite a bit larger then on the 2 seaters, as soon as I looked at the photo I thought it looked very 2+2ish. - Andrew

Short version, yes it's for a rwc so I can actually drive it and enjoy the car, first it's going to be a daily for an 18 year old and a pristine show car later. I just want to get her on the road and prevent anything from getting worse.

It is partially to get a rwc however I do intend to re-do the repairs when I have the time and money. I've rust converter under all of my repairs (also had the door trim off and did the door skins) so the rust shouldn't get any worse. I'm certainly new to all of this so if there is a different way that I could do things let me know, with the door jamb repair it was a bit hard working around a pervious repair however I did manage to cut out the majority of the rust and I had a bit of sheet metal that I bent into shape and welded in. With the door skin the top part seemed very solid and had just had a chip in the paint when I got the car and the paint was lifting so I sanded off the paint and surface rust leaving a section where the paint was missing which was what I bogged up, the bottom piece I cut out a slit where the metal had split and welded in another slit. Now that I think about it I should have cut out a small rectangle around it and done it that way. When I have the time I'll probably re-do the repair. I'm sort of working my way around the car re-doing things that I didn't do correctly the first time such as the firewall which was my first attempt at welding and it looks terrible so I'll probably either grind the welds down and re weld it or cut it out and do it again. Thanks for the suggestions guys, I really wish I had the time to do things a bit better but I fully intend to slowly bring the quality of repairs up with my skills!

Well underneath I have cut out a small section and welded in some sheet metal, I just used the body filler to bring it all up to the level of the paint as it has some really thick primer + original paint so although there is fresh sheet underneath and it's all welded to a reasonable standard it just looked terrible with just primer. You can sort of see what I mean here in the corner. I do intend to strip the car back entirely in a few years and that is when I will look at things such as tin filling etc, but for now I just want to get her on the road and stop any rust from getting any worse. EDIT** I see what you mean with the repair at the bottom of the door, that photo was taken before my last go with the welder. I was sort of filling with the welder as I went, it appears to have some holes in that photo however they were welded up and ground down so it was all smooth(ish)

So I've completed my repair, I was able to look inside the dogleg and it appeared that the sill was in good condition so I continued with the repair, over all I'm fairly happy with the result, It's not perfect but It's better then what was there. I must note that I did get the welds done much nicer however I ended up filling in a few spots where the previous repairer had damaged the metal work so that is why it looks fairly un-neat. My first time using bog so go easy haha. I'll probably re-do this in a little while, just sand it down more and apply a THIN layer of bog, unlike the body shop who had this car before me, I don't want to have to remove stacks of bog when I do a full resto eventually. I also repaired a few small rust holes in the passanger door. Next thing is some colour matched paint, a rwc and a manual tranny Or, depending on what my roadie guy says it may go something like: Colour matched paint, manual tranny, 6 months saving, front frame rails, rwc Also got my wheel alignment done + a few other things such as re-adjusted front bearings and the car is driving incredibly! -Andrew

Yeah, it's out of a 75/76 model (Which will hopefully be fine with my 78 2+2), Locky suggested that I could just grab a brake pedal, bring my pedal box down and he would modify it all to function correctly. Thanks, Andrew

Hi all, I've finally sourced a gearbox with a slave and master cyl. so now I'm just after: Either a 260z Clutch pedal or brake pedal 260z Clutch pressure plate Flywheel Clutch/throw-out bearing etc. (I'll probably just buy new) Rear Main seal (I'll probably grab one off ebay) If I have missed anything please let me know, Thanks All! -Andrew