-
Posts
487 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
9
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Articles
Media Demo
S30z Register
Store
Everything posted by Andrew_L26
-
Thats mint dude, I was dreaming of a 240 but due to the lack of funding I ended up with a beautiful 260 2+2 Keep the posts coming. It's nice to see someone else my age into zeds!
-
I'm most likely just going to wrap it around inside the door jambs and the engine bay will just be left black with the wrap coming around the fenders which I will probably take off to wrap.
-
So today was a day of much progress and rust removal (sort of) As many of you know my plan is to wrap the car so that I can utterly destroy the paintwork underneath by which I mean get every little bubble out and put some primer on it. That stage has started and been nearly finished today. The first thing to do was get rid of the rust bubbles on the drivers side rear window. That just required some sanding, rust converter then primer. Now the upper hatch sill...... I have been scared of it since I first inspected the car and always knew it would be an issue. Anyways, I removed the rear hatch and got to digging away at the bog. It wasn't too bad however I know that there is probably some issues under the roof around the frame. There are a few rust holes here and there however these are going to be plugged with silicone and wrapped over until it is time for a proper respray. My process for all this was Bog removal>Wire Brushing and sanding off loose Rust>Rust converter>Primer and that is all that I am going to do at the moment. Next weekend the holes will probably be plugged up with silicone ready for wrapping. I am thinking that I will put some bags of rice or Silica (the stuff that removes moisture from food) in the holes where the hatch hinges go and up behind the interior light in an attempt to get rid of moisture. I also intend on essentially filling the entire area with fish oil and or WD-40. Maybe I will get some spray on rust converter and see if I can get that up in there. Must say that rust converter is incredible, it gives the metal or what's left of it so much more strength as well as stopping rust. Also, the car gave birth to a large spider with a solid 15cm span! Try to enjoy these photos Must say the 15mb upload limit is a godsend, now I don't have to manually compress everything beforehand! Thank-you Gav!!!!!
-
What's hiding under your 2+2 roof (2 Seater owners need not read)
Andrew_L26 replied to Scoota G's topic in Body work
So I began to attack my upper rear hatch sill and I was thinking (as I defiantly don't have the time or resources to do anything like this) I could chuck stacks of bags of that Silica stuff that you get in food to get rid of moisture up there, or maybe a few bags of rice and leave it there for the next 5 years until I have more time and money to do things properly. Maybe then spray the hell out of it with a spray on rust converter and then some fish oil or WD-40. -
Hi, I was wondering if these have any issues with rubbing etc? Also, are you willing to sell them with tires, if so what condition and how much more? Thanks!
-
Watanabe 16x8 +0 AS NEW with tyres Melbourne
Andrew_L26 replied to Alfadog's topic in Parts and Tools for Sale
You wouldn't happen to be selling those credibility loosing rims would you? I am in need of something with tread hahaha -
How much are you after for those rims and tyres, loving your purple zed
-
It was fairly easy, the stuff is just like a huge sticker so you just put it on with a squeegee and some heat from a heatgun or hairdryer (which allows it to be stretched easily then re-heated to shrink back again) Loving the member status of "Peter" by the way
-
This weekend I wrapped the bonnet, it was half for practice so I will probably re-do it some time now that I know what to do. Next week is the dreaded hatch. Also the new image uploader, I'm in love *_*
-
Defiantly not, so much more satisfying then sending it off, most likely seriously injuring my wallet. It only cost me about 80c!
-
So not a hell of a lot has happened since my last update however I started my first bit of body work (sort of) As many of you were aware this car came with a simply tragic spoiler and it had been crudely screwed onto the rear hatch, these holes had begun to lightly rust (nothing too bad but needed to be dealt with, so I began to take up the paint surrounding them only to find around 1mm of bog so I took some bog out, then more, then more and more. I was so ridiculously worried but I couldn't stop. Anyway, it turns out that the de-badging was not done well to say the least, it appears that someone has plug welded the holes over however not grinded back the welds and instead just built bog up around it. So after that ordeal I'm left with this decent sized patch of bare metal, currently it is covered in duck tape but that will soon change! I have decided to roughly paint some primer on it then vinyl wrap the car! I have got a 10X1.5 M roll of matte(ish) silver wrap here waiting to go on, this is only cheap stuff and may damage the paint, I'm not too worried about this because I've decided to sand back any rust bubbles, prime them and wrap over it, this way I can stop any rust in its tracks without starting a massive overhaul on the body work, before I paint and wrap the rear hatch (and maybe fenders) I would love to drill out the plug welds so I can attach the badges. If anyone happens to have the measurements of where these holes are that would be a godsend I also went into a brake shop today to see if I could order new break drums, apparently there are only 4 left in Australia and they cost $174 EACH! plus $25 freight EACH! so I have decided to look around for a cheaper deal. I assume these may have been OEM ones and thats why they are so expensive. Also got the headlights working properly after re-wiring and fitting some new plugs (thank-you Factory Service Manual ) Engine bay has been degreased and looks mint, turns out that I have a slight oil leak from the rocker cover gasket and I plan on replacing that gasket pretty soon. I managed to get the heater working fairly well after flushing the heater core, greasing the tap and sort of fixing the vacuums lines, If anyone has a diagram of how that all fits together that would be amazing. The rims have been mostly stripped as I couldn't stand them having purple accents! Anyways looks like we might be going back to "The Questionably Purple 260z" Oh and thanks to the thread "you can fix your 260Z clock" in the interior section I now have a functioning clock, I am still adjusting it slightly but all it needed was new caps! Enjoy these photos, I have since fixed up the back seat (with some neat work with vinyl tape) As always high res photos are available in my google drive https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-7sJCmAZ6Kafndvd1NHN1B6QnUxaTRQaEUwU0RWOGVyTXo2cWh6bldEaGdoWmw5QzNKNlU
-
Do you have any full res photos for wallpapers, I'm in love...
-
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-260Z-S30-series-ORIGINAL-1974-OWNER-MANUAL-very-RARE-/321824109538?hash=item4aee3633e2 Its for the 74 but if I see one for a 75 model I'll let you know!
-
I actually lost mine too and managed to get another from an ad on gumtree, his name was Martin Falconer. I believe he has lots of spares and maybe another corner trim? His company is called Tune Right, phone is 0417 953 329 (He is in WA but posted all my trim to me, (front corners, front middle bit and the rear right)) Good luck, if he doesn't have a piece then try gumtree for people selling z parts and just ask, I found a few people selling little things like that.
-
Ok awesome, I'll see how it goes. I've got it in the car at the moment as It's not currently registered so I'll let it sit there lightly screwed in for a few weeks and make sure it keeps its time if not then I'll grab one of those transistors and replace whats left.
-
Well, I got my clock working, I used 16V electrolytic Caps and a ceramic one (for the 220nf?) I will post the components that I used. I decided to try it after just replacing the caps and it worked great, even though the resistors seemed to be dodgy, I've only had it going for about 12 hours and it seems to be keeping time fantastically although there is no way to know just yet as only time will tell I will chuck up a list of the caps I got from Jaycar, I haven't tried the resistors as it worked fine without replacing them but we will see in a few weeks. Thanks again for the help!
-
Hi All, I've just got my board out and I've decided to replace all components on the board as one resistor is giving an open circuit on my multimeter, I assume these resistors are 1/2 Watt each? I'm having trouble sourcing some new capacitors as I can only seem to find ones suited for 16V at the closest (these are rated for 10V) anyone got a good source for these. I think I'll go into jaycar when I get the chance and ask there. Also I found this transistor online I assume it would be fine even though it has a slightly different code (CR828 R.59 rather then CR828 R.69) One last thing, the issue with my clock was that when I put power to it (9V battery) the motor would just twitch and eventually stop moving, I could get it swinging if I toggled the power on and off. Not sure if anyone knows what that means Thanks for your help with that schematic! http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pcs-2SC828-R-C828-R-C828-100-Genuine-NEW-PANASONIC-TO-92-Transistors-/181183596668?hash=item2a2f62487c
-
Hi all, with my recent run and the general condition of the bushings (all around) I have decided to replace them, I've been looking around and I can't really find any suggestions wether urethane or rubber bushings would be more appropriate. To my knowledge rubber ones give a smother ride with more play in the whole system and urethane ones give a stiffer ride with more feedback and generally more responsive.
-
I have been looking for these covers not knowing what to search for, thanks!
-
Well I will defiantly be donating as soon as my next pay comes in! #pleblife I think that would be good getting a bit of an upgrade. Maybe we could even have some sort of updated photo management. If you ever need a hand with anything I'm more then willing to help out.
-
One last thing, I've bought a factory S30 service manual (Nissan dealership) online and I was wondering if there would be much interest on a huge pdf of the complete manual. It would be painstaking to put it together but if there is enough interest I'm willing to put something together.
-
Thanks Gav, everything seems to be working great.
-
Will do but first it's degreasing time! Hopefully I will get time this week to foam the entire engine and make it all clean, this will also make it easier to tell how much/where the oil is weeping from. Looking forward to that clean rocker cover
-
Thanks for that Gav, must say that you really work hard keeping this forum maintained and me and I'm sure many many others really appreciate it!
