zcar63

Hi Guys Still beavering away with the arms,i can now get them electroplated or powder coated,the plating is slightly dearer than powder coating. Cheers David

Hi Gareth Great photo of the arms on your build thread.I need a better camera Cheers David

Hi Peter/scoota My z is a 71 model the arms on mine might be off a later model then.The NEW ones i have are as light as yours Peter,but i now have adjustment and saved 2.2kg in weight over my old arms.That means 2.2kg less dieting i have to do,pass me another beer will you!!!

Hi guys/gals i have a question for those better informed than me.I weighed one of my OEM rear lower control arms on certified scales at work,it came in at 4.74kg each .I then weighed another arm from a spare pair of arms i have under the bench and got 4.64kg .Another member here has one which is 3.6 kg, does this come from a specific model?or year of manufacture? Cheers David

Hi Guys/Gals I weighed the arms old and new last night at work.The stock arm i weighed was 4.7kg each , and the Weight Watchers brand with extra fibre comes in at 3.64kg each = 7.28kg for the pair with rose joints Cheers David

Hi Guys i have a set of lower arms ready,here is some more info on the construction.All tube is 4130 chromoly,WELD IN INSERTS ARE 4130 chromoly, gussets are 4130 chromoly, the flange that the bushes thrust against are mild steel(5mm) the bracket for the adjustment arm is mild steel , the 16mm bolt is high tensile steel which i have drilled a through hole 9mm and cut to length and threaded m16 x 1.5 with a nyloc nut , or you can use your bolt of choice .The spindle pin is 4140 chromoly and approx 40mm shorter than standard,i will purchase bolts for this purpose in the future. The control arm has two (RH) rod ends and one (LH) rod end.The adjusting arms has one (RH) and one (LH) rod end,the left hand weld- in insert has two small notches cut in the edge to identify it,the (LH) nut has a notch around the edge as well .I have chased rod end suppliers all around the world a couple referred me to the local distributors who's quotes sometimes were interesting IE:26 x rod ends from local $98.23= $2554.24 plus freight and another was $55.00 each x 26= $1430 plus freight .The ones i am using came direct from overseas, they are dearer than one other supplier i was hoping to use, but he doesn't make 16mm fine thread at the moment. I will take them to work next week and get an accurate weight . Any questions ,don't hesitate to ask.Just a note,i am using chromoly weld in inserts as i don't see much point welding in mild steel inserts into the tube for them to become a possible weak point. Cheers David

Hi Lampy 4130 tube doesn't have to be stress relieved if tube is no more than 0.120 thou wall ,using er70-s2 rods.I'm not getting much time to work on them latley with a bung knee :'(.Trying my hardest to get some done. Cheers David

Hi Guys I had to go away for a few days which has put me behind,only to come back home and partially dislocate my knee (S@#T) I'll be burning the midnight oil i think Cheers David

Hi Guys i have all the parts ordered for a couple of sets,should be arriving soon.I have been reading a thread on rear swaybar location, do the different mounting positions of the swary bars, ie 240z, 260z, 260 z 2+2 models still line up with the lower arm drop link locating holes.? I would hate to make the mounting holes the same as my 240z only to find they don't line up for other models. If anyone can let me have a gander at other cars on Brissy north side to confirm. Cheers David

Hi Guys Sorry i haven't been very active on the forum .I am busy getting busy making control arms. I am adding gussets to the corners and a swaybar mounting point. The drawing for stress analysis is coming along.Communication will rod end suppliers is slow.As soon as i have completed the next pair i will get some mood lighting going and get some snaps of the sexy things

Hi All I made enquires about rod ends a few days before Christmas,but had no reply as yet.The rod ends are expensive,a bulk buy would make quite a difference to price.If i can order them in a week or so ,add another week for freight and then manufacture which will only take few days.this is the best estimate i can give at the moment. Cheers David

Hi All Jake they picture you posted of some control arms has a striking resemblance to the one's i have made ,nothing is sacred !!! (Ha Ha).I am waiting for prices to come back form O/S for the rod ends.If anyone can help procure chromoly tube i would love to hear from you ,i brought my last length from Sydney.The cost of tube and freight to Brisbane is a bit steep .I run an LSD and took the swaybar off a long time ago i prefer it that way when racing,so i haven't added the swaybar mount to the set you see.It can be added if required. Cheers David

It was quite a bit of work to set up.Once the jigs were made the rest came together in between other jobs. I have made this style as i think it is the most effective design for strength and adjustability. i am trying to encourage someone i know to do some stress analysis for me but is could be a long process, If any one is interested in knowing the costs please send a Private message

A couple more photos

Hi I thought that i would post some photos of my rear control arms and the jig i made ,i couldn't afford to buy them.Using Chromoly tube and the best rose joints i could find.The jig was the most time consuming job.I have made custom spindle pins from 4140 hitensile steel as they have to be a bit shorter than the standard ones. I made a jig to fit in the lathe to notch the tube,the tube is held in a jig on the tool post, and i use a 1" holesaw on a mandrel in the chuck.Sorry i haven"t got any photos of the lathe jig.

i know that it made a difference to my noisy tappetts. If you give them a call they might tell you the zinc levels.They only give viscosity info on the MSDS

For high zinc engine oil, have a look at OTECH LUBRICANTS at Narangba north of Brisbane they are on the interweb.

A friend of mine is on the sunny coast and is thinking of selling his 260 2+2.Runs a L28.new shocks all round and is in immaculate condition.If interested drop a message. cheers

Hi Pm Sent for wheel bearings Cheers David

PM sent

Hi I am thinking of selling my R200 long nose clutch type LSD 4.1:1 ratio ,had some new clutch plates added and preload adjusted a while ago and it has not been used and sat under the bench ever since . So Whats it worth to the right buyer. I also have a R180 welded 4.9 diff and a welded 3.9 R180 if any one is interested .Contact David 0417653681. Cheers David 4.1 diff is sold

pm sent

Hi Sexual sushi I used BHSS year ago they did a very good job on some calipers that need rebuilding. Hi GILLTECH i have bleed the brakes again recently hoping that it would improve the pedal feel ,it pulls up quite well now with the discs allround it just takes a bit of leg muscle to do it.My daughter hopes to have a crack in the car later in the year at the track ,so the bigger booster would help as she only weights 45kg dripping wet.Anyone got a bigger booster they don't want?? cheers David

thanks for the reply guys, i have checked the one way valve and looked for a vacuum leaks ,all seem ok maybe the booster needs a refurbish. failing that a 2+2 booster it will have to be.

Hi Guys I have upgraded my brakes on my 240z, i now have 4 piston hilux calipers on the front with vented rotors and r31 disc brake setup on the back. I have also installed a 1" master cylinder. But i have to jump on the pedal hard to make the brakes bite,i need to upgrade the booster( I think) but which one fits ?and does anyone have one i can purchase. I have asked in various auto shops for 280zx booster but no luck at all,i have been told the 260z 2+2 is the one to get. any advise would be appreciated and a booster would be even better. Cheers