red76z

I have been building a ls1 Z over the last 4 years in my shed at home with about a day a week to spend on the old girl. I have attached a few photos to get you up to speed with my progress so far. Sorry about the time period from the start to now but i have not been able to download the pictures from my phone until now. like the rest of you doing a ground up build it has been a long journey cutting rust out and and replacing it with new steel. but the progress is so worth it. Plus grafting motor g/box diff, brakes and other parts from other vehicles keep's you thinking all the way. I will just post some pictures in the next few posts to show you my progress so far. hope you enjoy them.

The Z badge you made looks cool mate. Work well on the grill without the bump a bar.

Nice car mate. I saw you on the road today. Good to see another zed on the road. Mine is a 76 260 2+2 under going a full rotisserie build and a LS1 injection. Should be rolling about September next year. Enjoy the car.

Will you sell the black door trims, and how much.

That is all you can do. Good luck.

Drill and screw your adaptors and mount them to your rim. Make them a Permanente fixture. This is what my engineering told me, by doing this they are no longer an adaptor plate, they are now part of the rim. Sly but true. Run this past your engineer. Regard Scott.

Thanks for the reply guys. It looks like it is just a matter of elimination. No one on any thread has a easy way out. the main things I want to get rid of is the fusibal link and altinator reg, coil radio suppressor and any other old motor wires. I will keep every thing to run tne dash lights heater fan radio and all driving lights, everything required to put the car on the road. if possible chop it out otherwise just hide it well. Thanks again Regards Scott

Hi Guys I am trying to find out if there is a thread on cleaning up all un used wired in the engine bay after installing a ls1. I am using a stand alone harness for the motor and I know the wires required to run that. But I want to get rid of all unused fuses and other stuff the original motor required. I am not running any accessories. Your help would be greatly appreciated. Regards Scott.

I like the new look Mick. Does the new intake make any difference? And did you make it yourself. I won't be able to make it to powercruise this year as my brother is getting married :-\. have fun. Regards Scott.

Hi guys I just purchased the set that gav has posted in his link. The fabricator was going to be $275 + postage for the pair of lids to be louvered with 5 not 6 louvers. thanks every one for your help. Regards Scott.

Gav I sent a picture of the eBay lids to the croud that louver these lids but I want them to put them on a angle instead of being straight. They should follow the line from the rear hinge. Should look cool. They will get back to me next week with a price. If it is realistic I will let you guys know.

Thanks guys I have sent a email the businesses mentioned. Thanks for the link.

Thanks Gav240z The link you sent has the right style but the english is a bit :-\. Cheers mate.

Hi guys I am on the prowell for a pair of vented inspection hatches and vented hood inserts, to suit my 260z Not afraid of rust. Cheers.

Nice work Mick. Finally finished the under side of the Z. Time for paint and put back together. 2-1/2 years later.

Very interested . Second hand in good nick is fine will blast and paint to suit the new paint job please let me know how much you would like for the pair.

Looking for a pair of hood vents to suit 260z. Full resto on car in progress. Already have the vented bonnet but the vents are missing. Any help would be appreciated.

Should this valve be disconnected if putting r31 rear calipers an a manual proportional valve in line?

Just a few more pictures

I have since done the handbrake mod to suit the disc brake mod. I thought it would be handy to take a view pictures along the way to help you guys with your future mods. It has made the handbrake angle go from 90deg to about 40 deg. This mod is quite easy to do. you will see 2 handbrake brackets in the pictures I have posted, The dirty one is the original which I will not use because of excessive wear. The sandblasted one is from my doner Z out the back. Very Handy. Step 1 undo the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the tunnel 10mm socket and disconnect cotter pins and cable. step 2 cut the small pivot in the middle of the bar off. step 3 weld the small pivot back on at 11 o'clock angle. step 4 drill a new 10.5mm hole 32mm up from the original pivot point on the long arm (the one that connects to the handbrake lever) Then chop the end off if you want. step 5 you need a shorter bolt to connect the small arm back on to the pivot leading to the handbrake cable y section.(I just used a die 6x1mm and re-threaded the original bolt then chopped 20mm of the end) step 6 reinstall every thing And it works a treat about a 2 hour job P.S take the tail shaft out to make your life easy.

I am now looking for a 1" master cylinder. I had a look at your booster install as I have the same booster that you have and It does look a bit big, and a mission to fit. The front brakes are from the Hylux. So that should stop the car. The engineer is happy with this conversion. As he said the Z weighs about 600kg lighter than the Commodore. Thanks for your comment.

The last picture is the main reason for the mod.

Here are a few pictures of the rear calipers from the R31 grafted on to the 260z 2+2 rear struts. New parts include Wheel bearings and seal R31 disc rotor Modified caliper bracket R31 disc pads Braided lines (custom made) ADR approved with 90deg bend on the caliper Grease nipple fitted to the hub shock boots and bump stop R31 seal kit paint and a fair bit of time.

Some close ups of the spacer.

Finished hylux conversion. 300zx rotor machined rotor from 22mm to 21mm center machined out to suit custom spacer that locates on the hub and disc. original hard line, just bent by hand a fraction new pedders shock boots with bump stops new wheel bearings.