skipz

I thought this looked doable. PVC door cards as an alternative to fibreglass or masonite. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/25007-door-panels.html

Came across this during searches, which I thought was pretty crazy. A LEGO 240z that has working lights, a jack, spare tyre, reclining seats, working wipers, gears, hubcaps, opening doors, bonnet, hatch etc. Thought some of you might be interested. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/344722

Does anyone have a RHD stock side mirror like the one shown, that they're willing to part with? Or know where I could buy one? I've got a new LHD one from the US, and had intended to use it on the right side. However, the angle at the base is not the same (see highlight in pic). Thanks.

Yeah Gav. Quite excited with the progress. Has me out of pocket a bit, but well worth it in terms of just advancing the build and the quality of work. The grille is the MSA reproduction. Its a bit flimsy and of course needs tweaking to fit right. I've still got the stock grille as an option if I eventually choose to revert (which needs a bit of straightening and tidy up).

Yup, the air dam is from Otomoto. Its a nice product, but sits a bit funny. For my car (I'm not sure if this has to do with previous damage or not), if you line up the air dam with the bumper bar as intended, it sits high in the middle and doesn't look quite right. I'm not sure if thats how its meant to be or not. So Nat had to intentionally aligned it slightly off in order to have it sit flat. I think it looks better that way than with the middle curved up a bit. You will notice there are quite a few gaps with the fairlady grille. I may have some fibreglass play and see if a bit of reinforcement and tweaking is worthwhile. It may not look as bad with the stock grille.

And now for some customisation. The ISIS programming I've requested should allow for window options of up, down, express up, and express down. Of course power door locks are needed as well. I like the VW window switches in the style and function, particularly as they have the red illumination (to go with the white gauge dials, red pointers, with red switch illumination). So I'm going to see if I can somehow adopt the switches to the ISIS system. ISIS closes to ground for the switches. Easy enough. But I also have the illumination which requires power. Looking at the circuit boards I not 100% sure that I can exactly adopt the switches - even with a bit of rewire. So I may be looking at custom circuit boards for each switch. I've never done that before, but it should be an interesting learning experience. One good thing about the VW switches is you can easily see that there are 4 positions for each window switch - which directly ties in with the express up/down plans. I'll also look to make a custom panel that sits where the stock ash tray would go. I'm not sure I'd have room for the back of the switches to hide them under the ashtray and the ash tray is not as tight a fit as I'd like, so a custom panel could tidy things up nicely. Also SWMBO has a thing for cup holders... so I might try to fit a VW slide out cup holder into a custom heater panel I've got planned (that'll incorporate the Vintage Air switches). Will have to see how that works out in CAD first.

I've also tackled the centre console. It was almost split in two. So following the tutorial, I've plastic welded it together, fiberglass over top, filler to smooth it all out and then a few coats with bed liner. Finally a slight rub back and a satin top coat. Came up pretty good and I'm happy with the results. Granted its not the original look, its now in much better condition than it was.

Work on the dash has continued after doing the side vents. I noticed the dash had minor surface rust, so thought it'd worth a bit of a clean up. So I separated out the frame, bit of wire brush cleanup, prime and topcoat. The dash is back together with the frame. Its now ready to be re-skinned, which will go off shortly.

More pics.

Update on body work. Nat has pretty much finished the body to what I'm after. Must say, its looking good. There are a few minor things left to do on the exterior but nothing major (i.e. drilling badge and mirror holes). The door locks, boot lock, and fuel flap locks have been shaved. The aim being to deter thieves screw driving the locks open (I suppose instead they'll go in through the windows instead now...). The power looks will allow access. The ISIS programming I've requested allows emergency entry if needed. So I'll soon retrieve the body for remaining custom brackets (e.g. ISIS mounting locations, HVAC hole positioning, seat belt retractor mounts etc). Lost of minor interior stuff to go, but it'll then be ready for paint.

there's one on eBay the moment. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-240Z-DIRECTIONAL-BLINKER-SWITCH-IN-NICE-CONDITION-/151297678647?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item233a0b5d37&_uhb=1

Thought I'd add my 2c. Things to consider: + Material choice will play a big part in the degree of heat resistance. There are multiple material types available and they are tied to the process used to create the 3D print. + Consider your layering orientation as it will affect the final 'look' and can influence part strength. (The print software should alllow you to choose the part orientation). + Your part resolution when outputting the stl file can influence finish quality depending on the shape of your part. Shapeways is another option for printing - with multiple material options available. www.shapeways.com You could also use moulding techniques to reproduce your part - e.g. silicone moulds. That way you could use clear resins that provide good transparency and heat resistance. http://aldaxstore.com.au/c/131162/1/general-mould-making-silicone.html

Hand-crafted mid engine sports car from nothing. http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9032

There's quite a bit of info floating around on this - sorry, but I've not personal experience on the GC camber units. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=6982.0 http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/58278-bolt-camber-plates.html (I'm sure there's more - e.g. on hybridz) Kmac comes to mind, or DP plates. http://www.k-mac.com.au/ http://dpracing.co/Z_Suspension1.html Alternates to shifting the top of the strut is to shift the bottom of the strut. i.e. adjustable control arms (e.g. from T3 or AZC or silverminemotors etc). Again, no experience with this on the car (yet), only from what I've dug up on the web.

Yeah its six of one, half a dozen the other really. Its an emotive decision you justify one way or the other. A) Flares on now - additional $ for where Nat is currently. Potentially wish to go back to original at a later date. Bit of cutting, welding, and paint to re-graft the original arches. B) Flares later - no additional $ now. Get to run the car with original flares, potentially desire flares later. Bit of cutting, welding and paint to put the flares on. Probably an easier graft job than the alternate option. B) is the safer and cheaper long term option (i.e. you don't spend twice). The width of the wheels with flares is not necessary for what I'm doing - But A) gives the look. The car will likely end up looking like either one of these two. I'll undoubtedly debate this with myself for a bit longer... :-\

I went to see Nat today and check on body progress. Things are really progressing quickly. All panels are in, primed and smoothing is underway. We also mock fitted the flares. I like the look yet am quite torn as to cutting the guards. We discussed ways to neatly put the flares on, and what alternate options (e.g. metal flares) would be. I've still yet to make a decision on whether or not to put on the flares.

Since the seats are done I've started on the dash tear down and rebuild. Thought I'd post some pics of the dash end vent redo - the install of the z store's end vent reproduction pieces. I tried to clean up the originals but they just would not get back their luster. You can separate the housings holding the end vents by gently prying them apart - I used a steel rule and light persuasion. The outer cases are held in with three plastic welds. You end up cracking those at the weld but retain the posts that align the two pieces together. I was surprised at how good the original inner felt looked after removing 40 years of dust. However, putting in the new end vents, they were a little loose. So I glued in a small sliver of really thin t-shirt material. Tightened those vents right up - perhaps a bit tight, but much better than having them loose and not holding position.

Quick update - I've just placed an order for the ISIS system. Jay was good to deal with and most of what I was after could be achieved. So some of the features are: + ISIS provides security via the remote key fob. Doors will lock, windows will go up and ignition and EMS is locked once security is activated. + power windows have the option of express down (i.e. one push full down). + power door locks, and power window control with current limiting + Interior foot well likes come slowly fade once doors are closed = theatre dimming ooOOoo + Recirc / Fresh Air actuator control tied in with the vintage air system + low battery cut out switch with automatic monitoring (I'll always be able to start the car if the battery gets worn down by lights etc) + in cabin piezo siren if security is on and doors or trunk opens. (i.e. deafen thief if they try anything) + the key fob can (potentially) control any of it. I'll be able to put up/down the windows remotely, turn the headlights on, honk the horn etc etc, all remotely. toys! Wiring diagrams are still being refined, but here's a link for anyone interested. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5h1sDxjB5CqSVNrVDdPcDVaYUk/edit?usp=sharing On other news, I've got the front spoiler and flares thanks to Ben @ Otomoto. Also have now a pair of new shiny bumpers. I've also ordered a retrosound audio head unit for that older look. I've also got an internal antenna - which I'll test first - as my current thinking is to tie in the antenna with the shaving of all external locks. Seats have been recovered with new foam and leather. As usual, all parts completely stripped down, wire brushed and painted.

having trouble with the image - have tried multiple formats no luck. Use your imagination. Cut the LCA in half and remove a good few inches from the back half. Weld a rod onto the bushing cylinder and another on to the front half of the LCA. threaded sleeve to join the two

Has anyone tackled making an adjustable lower control arm using the original LCA? Something like the picture (which I noticed on ebay). I'm contemplating giving it a go, as I'm interesting in adjustability, but am a little concerned about added harshness due to the off the shelf rod end / rose joint style ones (is there any added harshness - for a street car). Having a spare set lying around, I thought I'd make up a 'negative suspension jig thingy' (ala project binky) and then hack, chop, weldy weldy... Just thought I'd see if anyone has any experience to draw on first before starting.

Hybridz has it stated as years 79-85 for the S12+8 non-vented. Requires trimming of the backing dust plate. Years 86-88 are S12+8 but are the vented rotor IIRC

Anybody have a spare 280zx turbo oil pump spindle / shaft (splined one) they're willing to part with? Cheers Chris.

Darius, The CAD went fine until I realised that the plan was a bit cost prohibitive. From recollection I'd priced out a 3D print from the CAD and it was amply more than the gauge itself. Unfortunately the materials at work aren't quite what I need either (and they frown on personal use). I'd also found that speedhut can install led's in the gauge of any colour (with symbols if needed) - which eliminated my need for a way to provide dash lights. So that all was put on hold and I'll just fab up some mounts instead, as I've had the gauges further customised. The cash and CAD work will go toward a custom heater control panel - i.e. original panel styling ques but integrating the vintage air controls (modded a bit), various switches and probably a retrosound unit (to give it an old/new look). Gav, No worries on the crane. I'll likely touch base in the next month or so as a mate will need it to help move his anvil about. Re the P90, you'll be the first I touch base with, but only if the engine plans change

After finishing the floor, rails and battery area, I was keen to start on the sills. Which were ordered with dog leg panels and arrived a few weeks later. While waiting for those parts however, I got sidetracked upgrading my 4wd to a decent touring spec and going on a few adventures. 6 months later the realisation hit that I hadn't touched the zed in a long time. That of course has been a typical story - a few months on, many months off to contemplate or tickle other projects. So in order to speed things up I've taken it off the rotisserie and thrown money at it! Off to Nat in Gladesville she goes! That was about 2-3 weeks ago now... I touched base with Nat today and he's got the sills in, repairs to the rain channel above the quarter window, rear hatch area and various rust touch ups. Progress! While Nat was attacking that, I've been tending to the inner door frame. I've no pics to show as its hard to see the detail, however I ended up replacing a fair portion of the bottom of the frame that was full of tinworm, on both doors. They've now gone to Nat to put the skins on, and for panels to start lining up. I'll now shift on to the seats, centre console (which is barely holding together), dash (gauge fitting) etc on the parts still left in the garage. The ISIS wiring map is now about 95% complete. Now I'm just ensuring that the various systems will work together (i.e. progressing through the Vintage Air unit and Haltech EMS) and that the wiring works ... at least, on paper. I've also got a S14 gearbox mated to an L bellhousing, spare to the 71B original. The electrical speed sensor from the S14 box will tie in nicely with the speedhut gauges. I'll, at some point here, send it to get rebuilt and ensure it's in good working order. I've also had the quaife torsen sitting around for a couple years. Again, that will need to get installed into the diff during its rebuild. I've stuck with the R180 and will mate it to a pair of Wolf Creek CV's - again, that have been sitting for years gathering dust. Probably 2 years ago now I picked up an L28 with P90 head. So I have options of mixing and matching, or using one or the other of the original L24 or L28. I figure the building blocks are there... with it all really just parts, and the option to go restore or modify, its really time to start locking in direction. So although physical progress has been slow, I think its fair to say that I've been happily throwing dollars in the void, so that the garage its a place of dust gathering parts. I am constantly debating my suspension setup. :-\ I've had the original struts finished for some time, with springs, sway bar etc at the ready, gathering dust waiting to be reinstalled. However, my mind drifts to adjustability and ease of tweaking in the future (whatever that may bring) ... Stop faffing, I tell myself.

Definitely interested. Fiberglass, no speaker pod.