Veloce

Sounds good to me and keeping it local all the better i'll put my hand up for a set, just let me know when a deposit is required PM me the details. Also a question - is the 15" or 16" option the same size centre with a diffrent rim size?

They look like Diamond Racing Wheels, a US company makes them basically any width/offset around US$90 per wheel from memory. I might be keen for a set in a couple months or so if they do quantity deals. http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/drwcustom.html

OooooOOoooOoooo..... smooooth

Does anyone have any info on this car? I'm trying to determine if the front has been repaired properly without driving down there and taking measurements... It's a pretty big job replacing a front section like that and it needs to be square or you will have alignment issues (castor, camber, toe etc etc.) Please feel free to PM if you dont want it public, cheers.

The time of day the photo is taken is the most important.... either early morning (just after sunrise) or in the evening as the sun starts to set. The light is too harsh in the middle of the day for a good pic. The less "busy" the background the better i reckon.

I stand corrected! Awesome car btw...

Nice find, i always take a look at random country/regional car classifieds hoping to find something like this! Maybe this guy has some parts... doesn't look like any progress, is he on the forum? http://project240k.com/category/240kgtr/ There was another Aussie website with a 240k GTR build but not sure what happened to that one either.

So did anyone enquire? Just saw the ended ad now... Must be the same guy from Tweakit Performance in Mona Vale that owns/built the blue 20B 240z I wonder if it's his car or a customers that gave up? Either way i have had wet dreams about this conversion only if i had the $$$$$

Put it on ebay with a starting bid of $1k and if it goes up form there, all the better.

What would this go for in Japan?

I second painting the bumpers gunmetal... tail light panel & grille too for good measure

So where abouts is this place in Sydney.... inner west? I might be interested depending on the cost.

While on the topic of items to make life easier with repairs i would pick up a 'shot bag', which is a sand filled leather bag used to shape metal. It came in very handy for smaller repairs that need curves forced into them. You can but them on ebay.

To be honest, with those quotes they aren't really intersted in taking on the work by the sounds of it. Have you considered priming it yourself? If you prime it, wet sand it etc i know a guy that will lay down the paint, bake and buff for $500 (if you supply the paint). This guy is in Sydney though... This is with all the panels on the car so you would have to paint the inside of bonnet, hatch, engine bay, door jambs first in whatever colour you want to do it in. Otherwise it would probably cost double that because you would have to do two bake sessions with the panels off the car. Priming and blocking/wet sanding a car isn't hard at all it's just bloody time consuming and thats where the big chunk of the cost comes into play.

This place in Sydney has a complete roof for sale, it would also sort out your A pillar rust. $900, but shipping might be a killer. http://www.sportsclassic.com.au/PartsShells.aspx?bid=103&mid=43&aid=5

I have a Lincoln Powermig 180C, cost me about $900 a few years ago, highly recommended. From what iv'e heard with lower cost MIG's, the quality of the wire feed unit is the most important part of the machine and what the cheap chinese units lack. Mine has been faultless (its american made), however i can imagine a dodgy wire feed causing all sorts of grief (slipping wire, jams, breakages etc). I'd say a decent welder is a very good investment.

Yeah i hear ya, i don't understand why people start bidding days before the auction end... i usually wait until the last 5-10 seconds before the auction ends to bid and i'll put in the most i want to pay for it and 9 times out of 10 i get it for a lot less than what my bid is... it simply prevents getting into a bidding war with someone which drives up the price.

Nice one. Have you thought about clear indicator lenses on the front? I reckon they would look ace with the white paint.

I wouldn't use an 80 grit flap disc on the panels to remove paint or rust, it would gouge the metal too much, what i see in the pic you posted is beyond surface rust, something like that needs to be cut out, it's too pitted... but bonnets aren't that expensive so i would look for a good second hand one.

If you don't want to blast it (lets face it, it isn't a cheap process), i have had success with striping a whole car with a Norton rapid-strip disc on an angle grinder (the ones i found were a blue colour and not black as below). I did a whole car in 2 days and it had around 8 layers of paint and primer on it, used about 8 discs from memory, you will make a mess so lay down a big plastic drop sheet and wear a mask. Also, i highly recommend picking up an 80 grit flap disc, these are perfect for grinding down welds flush, about a million times better than anything else, pic also below. Both these are both available at bunnings. If i was to strip the whole car i would treat the bare metal with Dioxodine, rinse with water (follow instructions), dry completely and prime as soon as possible with epoxy primer. That way you can take small sections back to bare metal, do repairs and re-prime with epoxy, this way bare metal isnt exposed any longer than it needs to be. Modern body fillers can also be used on top of epoxy primer (PPG actually recommend this), some people shy away from this techique but it worked well for me.

I agree with using epoxy primer... then hi fill primer, but thats a ways off... bookmark this link, it has a bunch of PPG paint data sheets for the various systems available. http://www.amcap.com.au/default_amcap.aspx?menuid=1035

Well, you seem pretty determined, i did a lot of metalwork on an old, rusty Alfa 105 (sills, floors, spare wheel well, wing bottoms etc) and i had no experience before i started and it turned out great in the end, if you have the time, then why not, get stuck into it. Even if you get into it and later on decide it's too much to take on at least you will gain new skills because lets face it, even a $10k+ zed is going to need rust repair sooner or later. I would consider getting some square tube and bracing the car before cutting out too much metal though... plenty of reasearch is what got me through my restoration

Indicating clean oil i suppose... but it is a rather satisfying picture for some reason. Nice original car and a good price too, would be an easy resto if the body is as good as it looks in the pics.

Check out the COME Racing website, they specialise in Holden V8's and do stroker kits - 355, 383 & 396ci They also do cams, trick heads even alloy blocks etc... i know, a lot of money but something to think about for later on

Yes, nothing new to see here. Everything in Australia is a complete rip-off compared to the rest of the world. No wonder why all the car parts i buy come from the UK or US. I don't enjoy sending our money overseas but the difference is massive, even with hefty freight chanrges it still comes out way cheaper.