Joiji

Oooh. Will get back to you.

Hey Bigfella, Any chance you have a pair of front bumper over-riders spare? Or if anyone knows if the rear over-riders will fit the front bumper? Also, what are your bonnets like?

Hnnnnggh.

I can help with the vents, but not with the switches. Not only do none of mine work, they never got replaced when I took the console out not long ago. Magill/Norton Summit area.

Shiny... *drool*

Nice to see someone else in Adelaide building up a 2+2. With Mick on the case, it'll be bright green in no time I'm having the same problem with my garage and space issues. A kit car and a Zed in the midst of interior work is not a good way to keep the place tidy. If any of the little trim bits go missing while you're ripping stuff out let me know. I bought a box of door latches, etc a while back and am happy to help you out if I can. Nice webbers too.

Looks great Mick. What width are the wheels on it? 235 looks pretty small on them

If you're in the market for a welder, my old man just picked up a new Cigweld mig from WESS, down Grand Junction Road way. (http://www.wess.com.au/). I echo the comment about mechanical vs body work, but you tend to not do as much damage if you stuff up body work (within reason of course). You can always cut pieces away and refab, or reshape. A lot of the pieces it looks like you need are fairly simple to fabricate with the right tools, or by hand if you're stuck. I'd be happy to help you build a rotisserie if you buy the steel. I've a bandsaw and mig which would be more than up to the task, so you can practice a bit before you go spending a lot of money on kit? So long as I can borrow it myself after you're done with it . Also, if you want to really get to grips with MIG quickly, give TAFE SA a call. Regency TAFE has a night course for 3 hours a week or so you can attend which will get you a basic qualification in whatever kind of welding you want, including MIG. I did MIG/stick ARC and Oxy (both fusion and braze) over six weeks as part of my teaching degree. Was more helpful than I expected, plus, well maintained machines and space are a nice touch. Regency TAFE also runs some sheet metal classes, if you want to brush up a bit on that before you start major bodywork. My old lecturer is happy for me to drop past every now and again and just fabricate something up if I need to, so that's always a great advantage, too. Also, they've just installed a 3600mm die folder *drool*. You've certainly got your work cut out for you with your new project, but it's pretty great fun, so I doubt you'll mind. I'll certainly be watching to see your progress.

Tried Rare Spares? They have a 2+2 kit which is reasonably complete, last time I checked.

I'm sorry all, I didn't get a chance to look at the diff over the weekend, and it doesn't look like I will for the next few weeks either. I'm swamped at the moment. I'll update when I get a chance though, if you havn't found something else by then.

Always nice to have more in Adelaide. Seeing as you mentioned underbody, I'm not sure how much use it will be to you, but I read through and E30 M3 resto thread a while ago where he had the shell dipped and redid the underbody coating, helped me get my head around it, plus, he does a nice job of most of the rest of the work too. http://www.e30owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4446&page=5 Let me know if you want a hand with anything. I can't say I'm fantastic, but I enjoy a rant like everyone else. Tim.

I should be able to get onto it over the weekend. Will see what I can do.

I might have a 4.11 LSD r200 in Adelaide if you're interested? Works fine, I'll just have to open it up to remember what kind it is.

Which area's are you thinking of having done? It's a big time consuming to clear out the old stuff, but installing new stuff is amazingly easy. I've just redone all the carpets, resurfaced/coloured the back panels and headlining in my 2+2, and aside from taking the glass out for the headlining, the entire process is doable on your own, although a second set of hands is some benefit. Sorry I can't be of help to your original intentions, but have a look into it.

I'll take the mount Gareth, happy to sort it out next week though? I'm on holidays over the weekend.

Alright. I had a short Uni Intensive which set this back a couple of weeks, but all is well now, and after Christmas should be doing a few odds and ends on the car again. Last time I made the decision to move from 12x12mm u-channel to 16x16mm u-channel, so I've had to recut and machine all of up uprights. I had the same setup in the mill, staggering the slots 24mm apart, which is pretty close to a standard grill (within 0.25mm). If you have a look at a standard grill though, the top slat is bent out so it sits flat on the top of the uprights. I didn't want to go through the process of making a die and punching these indents into my slat, so I just changed the design of my uprights slightly! The uprights now have 7 slots cut in them, compared to the traditional 6, with the top one being 5mm down from the fold at the top of the upright. This fold is my way of capping the tops of the uprights off. The original grill has a rod down the centre of every upright to hold the slats in place, and I intend to mimic this. The fold is slightly too long, but I'm planning on TIG welding around the seams and then cleaning it up with some sanding/filing to give me a smooth rounded curve for the top of the upright. The next week or so is likely to be used to make a new shelf for my welders, to free up more space in the shed, so at the very least you can all have a chuckle at my MIG welding skills, at best you might see some more progress on these uprights!

These look fantastic. Look forward to seeing it finished. Where do you work Mick?

Buy a sheet of 0.9mm mild steel and a mig welder, have at it yourself!

Looks great Mick. Beautiful colour.

Well, this weekend has seen some progress. When we left all the holes had been drilled in the slats. I've taken both sets of brackets off the original grill, sandblasted them, and given them a quick coat of something to stop them rusting, I'll be giving them another, more thorough blast, along with anything else I can fit in my little booth, before it all goes off for powdercoating. No pictures, but if you wan't to know what they look like I'll throw an image up next time. Figured out how to cut the slots for the slats in the uprights, also decided to move from 12x12mm to 16x16mm uprights, otherwise I'm going to run into the same problem as the originals had, which is when cut through enough to accomodate the slats, they bend far too easily. I'll pick some up tomorrow. Onto pictures. This is the setup for cutting the slats. Channel is held in the vice, mill head is tilted @30 degrees to match the original stagger. I really don't understand Nissan sometimes, the slats in these grills are 24.5mm apart. Why not just make them 25mm and make it easier on everyone? Anyway. This is the end result in the test piece. As you can see, the slat doesn't fit far enough down, but even now we are looking at not having enough metal to keep the upright sound. The grill will probably stop until next weekend aside from material aquisition. This week is probably part TAFE/Uni work and running all the speaker wire around my car. Thanks for looking!

Just listed as a 240/260z item, but thought it looked a little off. Thanks for the help candy

Probably a stupid question, but will the console fit a '75 2+2? Looks smaller at the front than the one in my car.

Just personal preference really. The 20x6 ends up looking almost identical to the original slats, and I can bend the upright to get a small radius too, just like the originals. I can do a full tour if you'd like? Thanks Roberto

Wow. Apologies for the images, my iPhone was the only thing I had on hand. I'll take my DSLR down for any future work. Today was just a short session on marking up and drilling holes for the rods which thread through the uprights. I just setup a stop on the mill for depth and then had a mark for where to drill horizontally. The powerdrill was used afterwards to deburr the holes. Next week will be cutting some mitres and TIGing the slats back together. If I can get my hands on a mandrell for some small slot cutters I have, I'll cut the upright slots too. Thanks for looking!

Afternoon/Evening all. I introduced myself on the forums quite a while ago, middle of last year to be specific, when I picked up a red '75 2+2. Over New Years last year I did some general rust repairs, which also resulted in me deciding to fit a new interior, including seats with new mounts, all that jazz. Fast forward to recently and the car has been down at the panel beaters for a few other rust repairs, and a nice new coat of paint. While the glass was out doing that I threw a new headling in, to replace the older, slightly sagging one. Anyway. I've just finished my student teaching placement, which was also the end of my Uni year. So with 4-odd months of holidays, it's time to tidy up the remaining bits of the car, and move back to my buggy project. First step is a new grill. The old one was looking a little tired, and once disassembled, it just seemed easier to make a new one from scratch than attempt to repair the old. I went down to Alspec a while back and picked up 12m of 20x12mm 1.4mm wall thickness alu angle, and a length of 12mm u-channel. Raw 20x12. Machined 20x6. The mill setup. This weekend I finally started machining it up to size. Which meant cutting the 20x12 into appropriate lengths, then trimming down on the mill to 20x6, which is what the original slats for the grill are sized at. All that machining marked the end of my Saturday. Onto Sunday in the next post. For anyone interested, this is the current state of the buggy project in the shed because the Zed has taken over