GV260

Don't forget if your seeking insurance, then a declared engineer's certificate for any mod's will be required in the event of a loss claim otherwise your policy will be null and void.

Blasphemy.............

I'v been looking into the various types of exhaust headers that are available and was wondering if anyone categorically knows what is the best shape, primary length and diameter? My application is for a race L28 with triple 45's. Any recommendations for off the shelf headers? Some examples are below http://www.hmheaders.com.au/index.php?q=46.html http://www.stahlheaders.com/Frame%20New%20RR.htm

Congrats thus far on the rebuild (very, very impressive - I'm gobsmacked!) especially the attention to detail and for undertaking the $$ commitment. I can fully empathise with the cost commitment as mine is very similar but as you have previously stated hopeful over time they will appreciate like GTHO's. They better otherwise my wife will divorce me......... Where have you sourced your Nissan Motorsport tuned headers from?

The rims on the black JDM Bluebird are Nismo branded rims made by Enkei (15 x 6.5) as I have two sets for my 240!!

Check this out........ http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240z-1972-240z-4by4-lifted-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a5ad3612dQQitemZ250631905581QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks

I do like the look of the black w/crinkle espically with a black coloured block which I have. My only concern is with keeping it clean - is it hard to do so?

I'm in the process of rebuilding my L28 race motor and would like to know your views on what to do with the rocker cover re presentation wise. Do I: 1. polish it (looks like too much bling for my taste) 2. ceramic coat it as per the exhaust system 3. powder coat it red (the body colour is red) or black 4. any other suggestions Does anyone know if I can powder coat it excatly the same body colour red or is only a generic red available?

I've also had a quick look through the Brooklands Books Datsun 240 - 260Z Gold Portfolio book that has a copy of all the world motoring press 240/260Z reviews. I could not see any options for wider wheels listed in any of the articles. In particular there is an article on page 54 on a project 240Z being fully factory optioned and no factory optional rims were fitted only after market mags. PM sent as requested.

Like I said, money no object.......... Just gotta win Tatts and it's done.............No harm in dreaming. Maybe BenZed will turn it into reality?

If money wasn't an issue, wouldn't the dream motor be an S20 head on an L28 block with a diesel crank for 3.1 ltr running aftermarket EFI 50mm throttle bodies? You'd have the best of both the R and L series then .......

I have an original (in good condition) early USA '70's Datsun/Nissan competition parts catalogue for all models (510, Z, etc) that lists all competition parts available direct from Nissan. I can scan it in colour and email to you if the other responses aren't of help. Please send me a PM with private email address and I will try to send ASAP.

Ben was your rear perspex window curved like the original glass and what was the cost? Has it scratched yet? What is the difference between perspex and polycarbonate? Which is better? I presume having these would make the car unroadworthy?

I had my series 240Z tarmac rally car weighed at 1,120kg without me but with approx. half a tank of fuel (est 30kg). So dry weight would be around 1,090 kg. It had a full bolt in roll cage, spare wheel & carpets removed but not internal panels. All glass original. Roger (RLY240) - as you also have a Z tarmac rally car, can you send me a PM so we can converse re events (ie Classic Adelaide) and our cars.

Good thinking - maybe grandma can do a nicely embroided Z logo......

Craig, that's only because each time you've lifted your skirt for the officer ............. ! Stivva, it doesn't matter whether or not it is "true" re safety reasons, the reg irresepctively requires the replacement wheel to have padding. If not and the officer knows this, you're vehicle is techinically unroadworthy!

I've enjoyed all your comments. My take thereof is it's a bit like the argument, is the sequal or cover version better than the original? Sure the newer version is more refined but it never has that feel or emotional response of the original. And it is because it is not original it never can evoke the same response even though it maybe better enginered, goes faster, is more efficient, comfortable and refined. Yeah sure the newer version is tempting but these things are never based on monetary terms alone (sorry Craig!) and as per the response of others, the newness of the updated model soon wears off and then there is a newer model again and on it goes. I think it comes down to character, something an original always has by the bucket load. Newer versions tend to have this intangible quality engineered out to improve them. A measure of how good the original was is always reflected in how close the newer version tries to mimic it. The 350/370 is evident of this in its style, interior and mechanical layout. The 370 is the modern version of a classic, it is a great sports car in its own right and is great for daily use but which would you choose for your Sunday drive - the restored 240 or the 370? Therein lies the answer.........

So the JDM spec is really just the pillar badge but for the bonnet. Stivva - did you get from Nissan Australia? Do you have the part number as I would like to get one espically as it is a stick on.

Do you have a photo of the J-spec bonnet badge - I didn't know they were different. Given you have already filled the holes, I would leave it clean. It looks great as is. If you were to badge it, I would only go for the bonnet - JDM spec or otherwise. I've actually filled in my pillar badge holes as I prefered the clean look on the pillar and I previuosly had the badges stolen......

Put me down for a set, as well as a hand brake lever rubber please.

I have a similar question to RBZ260's re Rb v L for all to contemplate and comment on - if you had the budget would you do a full complete resto on a 240 or spend the cash on a new 370 (or 350)? Alternatively is there a budget limit to the amount you'd spend on a 240 resto before giving it away and look at buying something new ala 370/350/R32-34? Me, well I've gone the full resto route and have now spent way too much - my wife will kill me when & if she finds out. If I had known it was going to cost me this much in the end I'd probably would not have done it being an accountant and thus a tight arse! But ignoring the $$$ now that I have I couldn't be more pleased as I have fulfilled a life long dream since I fell in love with Zeds....... Everyone has a vice and mine is my 240Z.... God knows I've worked bloody hard and long enough to endulge myself in a passion......that's my excuse anyway!

I heard that someone was recently pulled over by the police and because there aftermarket steering wheel did not have a cushion pad in the middle as per the original steering wheel their Z was therefore unraodworthy? I've checked the VicRoads web site and yes, this is correct so beware! Refer to section 7 in the attached link. http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/CC48FC10-4D57-4F04-82E1-3BD72EF88340/0/VSI8.pdf Note also that as per section 9 wheel spacers are not permitted (unless fitted as original equipment).

For my 20c I can't go past the induction noise of triple's on song - just glorious, which you can only get with the N/A L series. I love nostalgia and as such the L series for me. Nonetheless, it is somewhat horses for course in that it depends how you intend to use your Z, and what condition it was when purchased will to some degree determine the most appropriate block. My race L28 is almost done and I can't wait ............

Reality is that unless the car has been stripped to a bare shell, sand blasted and then treated correctly you will not find a 240/260Z without rust. They were not rust treated when first built, the sheet metal is thin and given their age they are prone to rust - even if they have been in a dry climate!And yes what ever rust you can visually see, it will be at least 10 times as worst and in the areas you least want it. Be prepared to spend either big time yourself or paying someone else to repair it properly. Nonetheless, the expense will be worth it b/c when done properly there is nothing sweeter than a rust free Z that will last another 50 years........

Love the car Greg - great work. What class were you running in at Bathurst and how did you go?