RB30X

What about no dents but some rust around the bottom mounting bolts. I can send you a pic if you want.

In all honesty, Scoot loves driving around in an auto, but driving it like its a manual, helps him look like he's snapping those gears changes. With his flat cap on, and Soulja boy cranked, thats how he keeps his pimp hand strong.

Musn't be able to afford a real gearbox aye??

Autos yes, manuals no

It's not gloss black but is it a satin or matt?

That happens to me all the time. ;D Especially if I'm doing something over grass. Dropped a needle valve from a motor bike carb in the grass the other day and I'd had a few brews and I'm like, no way I have to find that b**tard so I got down on my hands and knees until I found it. ::)I sound like such a red neck saying that.

Are you going to try and squeeze them Under your standard guards or run flares?

Thanks Benny. Those would be the parts that bolt onto the the wiper arms. I'm actually chasing the whole kit and kaboodle including the arms with the spings in them. I need everything from the two 8mm (or whatever) threads that stick out, right through to the wiper blades themselves, even the special nuts etc. Can anyone point me in the right direction.

More bush replacements with the magical piece of polyurethane... I'm having a lot of fun learning about this stuff. As mentioned previously, the handling of this Zed at speed is not comparable to a modern day car. Having said that, having intact sterring rack bushes did make a huge difference but it still seems to follow bumps or ruts in the road etc. I've been reading up on Castor and from what I've seen, perhaps my castor rod bushes were also worn and there was at least 15mm on thread showing after the nut, where as on HybridZ someone mentioned that in the process of increasing their castor they had no thread left on their castor rod. For those less knowledgable then me, increasing castor or the angle at which the wheel hub is moved towards the front of the car so the strut is on more of an angle improves handling at speed and helps turn in etc. to increase castor a large amount you would need adjustable lower control arms so you would have a pillow ball joint where it bolts onto the cross member so it supports the control arm angling foward more than factory. I replaced the old bushes on the castor rod with poly ones I cut out, and also installed an extra washer on the wheel side of the bush mount. It took some effort to get the castor rod bolts to fall onto place at the base of the control arm where the strut is but I am confident I have increased the castor or at least returned it to where it should have been. You can see in the pic above, the remaining thread is now shorter so this has pushed the rod foward to some degree. My car is in a lot of pieces at the moment so it will be a while until I get to try it out.

I could cut you a length of 8mm threaded rod or what ever size they are but I cant help you with the extractors, try ebay.

Well I did ask rota Australia that question and they said they were 73mm and had a spigot ring to bring that diameter down. I asked that question due to the dramas they were having in the US on hybridz. Perhaps Laurence could confirm that for the rims he's selling.

Rota grid drifts http://www.rotaaustralia.com.au/rota-grid-drift-16x8-4x1143-bronze-set-of-4-wheels_p1047295.htm Koya Drift teks are a five spoke and aren't available in 16" only 17 x 9 and up.

Pretty sure he gets them from the Australian distributor. I just ordered a set of drifts ;D http://www.wheeltechwheels.com.au/rota-wheels

Happy birthday Peter. Hope your family gives you some time off to work on the Lzilla.

dammit, there supposed to be a t there..... it was pissing Yes you're right Garvice it could be an alignment thing.

Wouldnt it just affect the height of the diff, not the car? My current confid would have the diff 10mm higher than normal. So if I put one spacer above the bar that would lower it and the diff and possible make the drive shafts more horizontal. I've already been under there pulling things apart and found damage to both foward and return fuel hoses. I forgot to mention I was sent home last night due to a fuel leak. It was pissing out just infront of the diff so I knew it had something to do with how the hoses were just cable tied up above the drive train. Sure enough it looks like one of the ties had broken and the hoses had been rubbing through on a uni joint. Hmm, while the middle section of me exhaust is off to fix the hoses I've got some stainless pipe there............

Thats because I couldnt grab any gears ;D Once the clutch came back I just gave it a stab in thrid and forth.

Bugger. They're a mission to take off too. Oh well. Would someone have just stuffed up or could they have been thinking it would stiffen it up. I know that talking to Warren skimmings, some people that know stuff have worked on this car's suspension at some stage of it's life. I'll fix them up next time I'm under there which won't be far off. My clutch decided it had had enough last night. Being the factory organic, the pedal just disappears as you're going down the strip but comes back when you let it cool down a bit. I must have had some extra horses too as it was bloody freezing last night and the zed was very toey on the drive out there.

No idea Benny. I only put things back the way they come off. Can anyone else confirm?

The strut tops have been put on hold until I can track down some pillowball mounts. On another note, My picked up a sheet of red polyurethane from work so I thought I'd cut some bushes out to see how it goes. I'm going to do my sway bar bushes as well as my tension rods too. Everything else is already done. I went out to the drags tonight but due to rain the day before the track was slippery as. Even with a decent skid the dunlops did nothing. I'll try again another time. Only managed a 13.2 @ 113mph which was still a lot quicker than some imports and blown v8's.

Yes they are. Nice call Bryan, they would look nice in bronze with some lip. Unfortunently it doesnt look like they come in a 16" let a lone a 16 x 8 They go from 15 to 17? I might rim Rota Aus on Tuesday and ask. Very, very nice rim though.

I've cut open one of these factory strut top insulators and heated up the rubber so it popped out. I'm doing this for the purpose of investigating how I can: 1. Shorten the strut top itself to gain some extra strut travel at the same (lowered) ride height as before. 2. Modify them as a non adjustable strut top with added camber and castor. Talking to Warren Skimmings the other day and he said the best position he has found for his adjustable strut tops (camber and castor wise) is with the strut hole between or almost between the two rear most strut top threads. To make the most of this adjustment you would also need lengthened castor rods (next modification). photo by MR240ZED, on Flickr Picture 001 by MR240ZED, on Flickr Picture 003 by MR240ZED, on Flickr Picture 004 by MR240ZED, on Flickr Picture 005 by MR240ZED, on Flickr Picture 007 by MR240ZED, on Flickr Picture 008 by MR240ZED, on Flickr

The grids should fit under mine no worries they are only 16 x 8 and I'm only running a 235 tyre. I have coil overs and the gaurds have been rolled but not pushed out at all. Here is Skimmo (in the Shannons shirt) explaining to some old diggers how that LS1 fits in there. His methanol injected boosted Zed

Yes I know skimmo. I've been picking his brain about everything zed related at the last few car shows. I took a few pix of his zed too. He run koyo drift teks which a similar to grids but five spoke not six. They look really good. They are 17 x 9 and they fit under his guards due to some subtle massaging.

Thanks mate. Have a gander in the rota Australia site.