Quandary

This is like deja vu for me. Did you check the ignition wiring under the steering wheel shroud? I found singed wires but I don't think I would have noticed without the tape that was binding the wires. It was the singed plastic and tape that made the burning smell (and smoke) and then later the headlights died. I actually don't think any burning wiring beyond the dash would be noticeable by a smell, unless it's oil related. Oil leaks can cause a burning smell, particularly nearby the battery.

Shannons just only today valued my 260z at $12k. A bit odd they valued your 240z the same, was it inspected or just an on the spot / by the book estimate? Definitely going to check out these LSV guys, already applied for a quote online.

Yeah it looks better than the average Ferrari but it's an unfair comparison to compare it to a street legal saloon with half as many cylinders. They might as well have just taken an F1 car out there and bragged about it as they have done with this.

That would make sense. Car was dumped in a creek so the transmission among most other things was overhauled around '03ish and my mechanic of 6+ years does the major services regularly and whenever something urgent pops up. I'll call around and get some quotes but transmission guys are expensive so I might be better off tracking down another box to test with.

Thanks for the reply. It's the original 3 speed. Not sure that it holds higher than I want, cos it's always been consistent (but with fuel consumption in mind all gears are holding to higher RPM than I wish they were. ). 2 things bother me about the auto. First is the upshift at low speed. Driving at lower speeds/ in traffic is not comfortable with the clunky auto box. Second concern is the down shift when hard accelerating isn't predictable. If I'm on about 80 km/h and mash the pedal it will either drop a gear (ie. car lurches) or just hold 3rd. Doesn't sound like a big deal but it is when you don't expect it to down shift, or the acceleration was just momentary. So a shift kit could fix the first problem by smoothing gear changes but might possibly worsen the second problem? Anyway, I've loved the auto. I'm keen on a shift kit if it can fix some of those flaws.

Need to get this question off this chest cos it's been simmering for days. Maybe the right people to ask so here goes. I'm not looking for a lot more performance cos really any 3 speed auto that I can throw down into 2nd at 100km/h is already fabulous. My auto is very clunky in the upshift and the car lurches so I also want a more comfortable daily bus. Can any of those spring valves be tweaked with the kit or is the answer in that something is wrong with the pressure modifier?

Repco are shit. I can't stand them. I got my K&N's for $180 the pair (Part No. E-3221) and also got the service kit (which from memory was around $30). The difference from these and using disposables is noticeable. You might be paying a little more for them but they last a lot longer and look that bit nicer too. There are a few different filter models to use. I went for the thinnest. http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=E-3221 I got a 50,000 mile 1 year warranty on them, but unlikely needed cos the packaging says it lasts 1,000,000 miles? And I believe they offer the million mile warranty in the US.

I'm 28. Only had one Datto younger than me. Some of my earliest memories was my dad's silver and black SSS Stanza (with factory sunroof!). The Datbug got me when I was given a paddock basher 1200 ute at 14 (which I later rolled and wrecked). Bought my first Z much later (03 or 04?) after having 1600s and many 200Bs.

Any news on it? I don't think they ever update their site so its not likely to appear there.

So this morning I drove up Talegalla Road heading into Rosewood (west of Bris). One of the most brilliant little roads ever. It had everything. Dips, creek crossings, dirt, steep hills, sweeping bends. And in the countryside too. So yeah, maybe not Australia's best, it was a pretty rough road, but certainly up there with the best around Brisbane. Just made me love my sadly unfinished Z all over again. I'm going to take some photos of it next time round. It made me think of my other favourite roads too. Samuel Griffith Drive (Mt Coot-Tha of course) Tamborine Mt Rd Mt Crosby Rd Daguilar Hwy (Benarkin State Forest) So I thought It'd be nice to compile a list of must drive roads should someone visit your area?

Front wheel drive? Thats odd. There were a few Dattos there.

I just think choose your fuel carefully and keep it consistent to pick up on any issues. I'm fairly anal about fuel, keeping all receipts so I can figure out if something is going wrong with its economy. The biggest concern ever is bad fuel, but also keeping your tank near empty, cos of all the potential build up of crap over time that sits at the bottom of the tank. I am suspect of some of the Caltex fuels around my area and also the independents provided by Caltex which had in the past caused me some troubles (ie. found water in the fuel filter! and inner fuel tank corrosion), but I wouldn't exclusively rule them out at all. So for a couple of years I've used V Power with additive and I find it just great. Also I can run it on non premium unleaded and/or without additive too but my L20 and L26 Dattos have all been noticeably lackluster as a result of lower octane fuel so I wonder why the L20 is on the register as ok to run on unleaded where the same year L26 isn't? I'm 100% confident leaded fuels of the past (low octane) can be replaced no problem with high octane fuels. The additive isn't necessary to run but I use it as a safety measure. The real costs that don't get enough attention are the flow on effects like poorer fuel consumption, increasing engine temp (you should retune your carbs if you're changing fuels anyway), etc.

It is sad that every Z I have bought was a wreck and are either still wrecks or is in pretty ordinary condition in comparison to some of the Z's around. It's more sensible to buy a new or partially/fully restored car cos from scratch restoration time is endless. I find the 370's are boring (and they still have those silly door handles). Restored 240 or new 370 are both just dreams. It isn't even really a fair comparison because living with those cars would be entirely different. The classic car is about learning how it works, how to care for and maintain things, unexpected conversations with strangers, looks of admiration from kids, and some of the older generation that remember when they were new. For me stuff like this is just something I wouldn't want to lose so I'd be happy with a lump of rusting steel from the 70's sitting in the garage over a new Z. Also give the Z another 30 odd years and see how many 370 it takes to buy a single classic Z.

Cars of these vintage are well known for accidents where the steering column comes at the driver in an accident. What is a small cushion going to do? Would make more sense to drive around with a helmet.

The L series was already old before they stopped making them but it meant it had 10 odd years of mods and upgrades to get the most out of them before a more powerful factory Jap engine was made. And I think it's a bit silly that some debate about what engine they want when they don't have a Z yet? At least drive the L series Z for awhile first and appreciate it. You're kidding yourself if you think its going to be underpowered. I don't think I could personally stray from the L series until I had a few more Z's to play with. :-\

I'm not sure that its Z's coming out of the woodwork. When people are openly listing their Z for 50~85k (check carsales.com) I'd certainly consider selling mine too. I'm on the hunt for a roadster while they're still relatively cheap.

I've seen a snapshot 2 or so seconds of a 260z on Bathurst with extensive front end damage. Actually it was driving on 3 wheels. So how many Z's were there?

I find it really interesting that it has the plastic plugs on the fenders where the side view mirrors would be mounted in Japan, but maybe didn't cut it for our regulations. First I've ever seen it on a 240Z. Is this the norm for the earliest Z? They are pretty common for 1600 and 200B's.

Much thanks to all. I've taken advice from everyone here thus far. Still a work in progress mostly due to my time constraints and that I only ever see my Z on the weekends. :'( The A/C unit is out. And currently testing a few different brand thermostats. It's down to around 90 degrees. My aim is lower than this but I'm pleased with the difference already. Other things on my to do list is to remove that A/C radiator thing and other minor A/C components. Unfortunately don't have the gear to even make a simple bracket for an electric fan and have yet to find someone that will do this. Lastly I'll look into the coating for the exhaust header, as am hoping for a L28 swap.

pocketrocketrally.com Anyone going? It's free. Sure to be a few Z's there.

The shroud is there and hood is vented. I've kept the vented bonnet for the appearance if anything. The fan is the original multi blade, the pump from a VL. Not thought about an electric fan. I heard some criticisms of these on other cars, Morgans and the Escort block type. Also I would not be keen on attaching kits cos those I've seen use plastic ties that go through the radiator. Anyone got these on their Z? Over the weekend I'm going to pull out the A/C and also see what it runs at without the thermostat.

I'm not sure that it is faulty because it fluctuates as I would expect it to depending on the revs/conditions and time of day. As for the brand (its not a genuine Nissan thermo) I'll have to find out. The pump is new. The temps were read with a sensor (needed to check the temp of the coolant after being cooled) and by the gauge, but I didn't actually check for the highest temp with the thermo. I will have to do that, cos I suspect it will be higher than what the gauge indicates. Anyway its too upsetting to think about. I'm inclined to garage it until I have time/can afford spending on it. I've spent 7 or 8 years spending money on the same shit all the time and all I want is a box conversion and new paint.

So the L26 has always run hot. Usually sat at around 80 degrees in hot weather. I've done everything I can think of to ensure it wouldn't get any worse and already spent a lot on new radiator, core, fan, etc. It's not losing any coolant. The temp in the lower end of the system is around 63 degrees. Yet lately the engine temp just blows out to 100+! I can't figure it out and I just won't drive it with a feeling that I'm killing it. I have done everything to the extent of my knowledge of the cooling system. I've taken it to two different people and they've basically looked into what I've already done and told me it's an old car and it will run hot. I am absolutely stuck and started thinking about probably irrelevant things related to engine temp like gearbox conversion, upgrading to the L28, front air dam, etc. Anyone got any ideas?

Those prices are unbelievable. I've always been a fan of the bullet style mirror. Still plenty of those around.

Welcome. I wouldn't trade my 2+2 for anything. My golf clubs and gear won't fit in the 2 seaters.