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The Hornet went via flatbed to James at MIA today ... just off the phone from him now .. "should be very straight forward Adam, it'a all relatively easy from this point forward". We discussed suspension setup, exhaust, oil tank location, and so on. Translation ... The Brown Hornet will be finished within a month! can't wait!

I can certainly recommend M.I.A Engine services in Sydney run by James Flett. He is the current Group S historic racing car champion, and has been in the lead of the Porsches for literally years, on standard brakes, standard R180 LSD and standard transmissions (as that's all the rules allow him in period class). His engines are phenomenal, and I am lucky to have one in my car (that I am yet to start, mind you!). For shear excellence in terms of engineering solutions over and above standard, however it seems to me that it would be hard to go past Peter Mac on this forum. I would first call Peter and James and assess exactly what you want. If you go nuts, you'll need to consider brakes, transmission, etc etc etc. You might, in the end just want a warmer L motor, or go to beserck with Peter Mac. In both instances get your money ready, but be prepared to be impressed. A third to consider with seriously long experience is Stuart Wilkins Motorsport in Sydney. He is well regarded by many on this forum and is well worth a call too. Just my two bob's worth. Adam - the Brown Hornet -

OK .. just booked in James Flett for this Thursday to receive the Hornet. The list includes; 1) install and set up Koni Yellow's at correct (lower) ride height, 2) install 2.5" mandrel bent stainless exhaust system with Magnaflow resonator and rear muffler, 3) ensure all OEM wiring is correct, get Tach talking to the Dizzy, and instal Odyssey battery and cables, 4) setup brakes and install my Mk63's, and 5) get oil catch can issue sorted, and 6) start the car! Can't wait .. will be there with VCR on hand, don't worry! Adam

to be clear, it was as Lurch properly described... the fat and relatively ugly 280ZX, i'm thinking about 81 or thereabouts, in GOLD, and no it did not have a black hood, and I could not see a disco ball hanging from the interior mirror for that matter either! No where as pretty, lithe or as small as the US version, or the early cars for that matter!

Today I flew to the Gold Coast to pick up and drive home my new Prado, some 800kms. Coming off the F3 freeway at the Wahroonga exit I very nearly ran over a gold 280Z. Car was on my left side, in the blind spot, was LOW to the ground and it was on dusk. I genuinely did not see the car as I merged left (I was in a Prado, he was in a roller-skate!) and had it not been for the bloke's fist in the air, I might have literally turned that car into a pan-cake, ie. ACME Road Runner style! (you know the scene where they peel the road runner off the road as though he was a piece or paper, or floppy pancake!). If it was you, sorry... I could not see you at all!! Then I thought to myself ... ummm .. I'd better be careful, as soon enough i'll be a car lower and much smaller than that one, ie a 71 240Z !! Ok, so i've fessed up and apologised, who was it?

Gents, On the measurements, the top threaded section is to the best of my abilities 14mm at the outside of the thread, and the main size of the canister is 45mm. The thing that strikes me about the strut is that it is fairly light weight. The general range is Koni Classic, generally adjustable (but not externally) and red - designed to give you a sporty ride and improve road holding generally. I had Reds on my old Peugeot and the difference over stock was amazing and noticeable. The Sport Yellow's are differentiated by being externally adjustable and able to be set from firmish, to flat out hard. They are standard fitment on many exotics and are a seriously good piece of kit. They are described as giving a sport driving experience and improving roadholding significantly. The Race strut is a further iteration of the Yellow and also uses a yellow canister. Not suitable for road use, and perhaps has more adjustability. Koni's are covered by warranty for the full life of the car (ie if they ever break, you get a new set! - assuming you have not damaged them in an accident or similar). On another topic, the Koni distributor asked me what springs I was using these with on my 240Z. I said; "1" lower King springs" and he said; "excellent, king springs are the best springs you can buy". I did ask him to elaborate on this and he then suggested that Topperformance also distribute Kings, but said they did so as they were universally regarded as the best product on the market and complement Koni's very well. Will let you know how she goes. Will have the car shipped to James place next week. Photos show diameter or threaded section, and end adjustment lever that is actuated by the use of a Koni key supplied with the shocks. Adam .

Hi Gareth, Will get that info for you tomorrow mate, as in i'll measure it and will also measure what is in the car as I can also measure that top threaded section diameter as well. Point to highlight that when I ordered the part from Topperformance, the national Koni distributor, they suggested that they do get a lot of enquiries for the 240Z specifically, and whilst they no longer make a 240Z specific part, Koni have released a document specific to the 240Z that mentions the 1060SPORT as being the correct part, that requires spacing to fit in the standard legs (the sizing of which I pointed out earlier in this thread). I know that Chris240Z and Andrews 240Z have Koni yellows on standard legs, and they both rave about them. Whilst I know most of you guys will have set ups infinitely better than mine, this is a road car and my purpose in this project from the outset was to use what the factory made and optimise it, as opposed to completely remanufacture existing parts, or use after market parts. I stuck with this philosophy with the OEM brakes (but used Mk63's up front), R180 diff, 260Z transmission, and NA L24 motor. Suspect my car will not be the fastest in a straight line, or through the bends, but should give me a fair idea of what an in-period 240Z felt like when pedalled rather hard. Thanks for looking Gents, will be sure to post any further updates. Adam.

Hi Dimitri I have the 1" lower and firmer king springs that came with the car and were new when I bought it. James Flett will be cutting the top coil out of these to use, as that top coil is only a spacer anyway, as there is no spring section to it. I drove Jim's car with this same spring setup and was very impressed with the ride and handling for road use. If I need things different, I can change in time.

These just arrived from the courier from Topperformance, the national Koni distributor. Part numbers are 8641-1060Sport. Cost including freight was $1000, against quote for Tokico Illumina's at $220 per corner ($880 + freight). Hopefully will get installed next few weeks.

That exact part is available at MSA, as is the chain that holds the tank cap. I bought mine from MSA and its an excellent addition to stop gas hose scratches.

By all means, if you're looking to wreck a 240Z go for it as that will make the good ones worth more. Alternatively get a 2+2 260Z and chop to your heart's content.

Ahhh the memories come flooding back, followed by SERIOUS nightmares that still leave me awake at night with cold sweats. Best of luck with that build, will be great to watch another one saved. Regards Adam

A watershed moment. I just ordered and paid for my Koni Yellow struts. As you know, I tried to order Tokico Illumina's, but there is some wait on these, so the Koni's have won the race, and I am happier about this outcome too, such is the quality of these. The parts I ordered through the wholesaler were; 8641-1060 SPORT for Front (uses 64mm spacer for standard leg) 8641-1060 SPORT for Rear (uses 23mm spacer for standard leg) To be clear, I ordered from Koni direct and did ask them about the 8060-1146 which has also been recommended for the front. They confirmed these are marked as a Toyota part (and are those used for MR2's and other applications). The only difference in these part numbers is the length of the cartridge, and given I am using my OEM struts and will now not be sectioning, these 1060 Sport parts are correct. Look forward to updating you once installed.

Hey Mike, correct me if i'm wrong but have i not seen these in the Kameari parts catalogue? Actually just went and checked, and they are on the front cover of the last Kameari Engine Works Catalogue that I have. Might be worth checking out if they do infact still do them? Cheers Adam

Hi Folks, Anyone got one of these 'Nissan 2400' valve cover they'd be prepared to part with for my beloved Brown Hornet? My car is a April 71 build, so this is the cover i'd like to do the L24 in it justice. if you're reading this, also keen to find some genuine period correct 240Z seat belts or buckles for. Please PM if you can help. Cheers Adam

Went over to see Jimmy Flett at the weekend to make arrangements to take the car over and get all the little bitty bits sorted, such as wires, etc etc etc. James graciously let me have a pedal of his orange car, and to be honest its completely amazing. I could not believe the overall presentation, condition and the way the thing goes. If my car both looks and goes half as nicely as that, i'll be amazed its incredible. He's selling it too, and I'd suspect that it would not take much to be besotted by it. On another note, I decided to can the SWR suspension option (ok, its money!!) and today ordered a set of Tokico Illumina's, and we'll be using those in conjunction with my lowered King Springs to give me a decent ride. James' car has this setup and it was like it was on rails, more than sufficient for me! I should be getting the car to James this month, so hope to have more updates in that time. Still looking for genuine 240Z seatbelts / buckles if anyone could raid their parts boxes?!?! Cheers Adam.

Hi Alan, Many thanks for mentioning that service to me mate, I do appreciate you passing that idea on. Only issue is that my 'originals' are far gone, and my car is left with some grubby plastic rubbish ones, well past their used by date too. Will keep the SB King in mind though, in case i'm able to stumble over some original buckles. Thanks again, Adam

- posted this on the wanted part this week too - The time has come for the brown hornet to find a new set of seat belts. Does anybody have an original set of OEM original seat belts with steel buckles they might be willing to part with? Alternatively, has anybody bought the new MSA 240Z seat belt kit? Just wondering how these function (if anybody has them) and if infact they are compliant to Australian laws? I also mentioned some holes that are located behind my seats in the box section just in front of the rear tray riser panel (mine is a June 71 car) that very much appear factory cut. Suspect these had gromets in them (on both sides of the box section - upper and lower) but wonder if they are there for the purpose of installing inertia reels for later year models? Any feedback whatsoever on this topic, greatly appreciated. Adam.

The time has come for the brown hornet to find a new set of seat belts. I posted this on my build page but have not got a response, so wanted to see what i can find out here. Firstly, does anybody have an original set of OEM original seat belts with steel buckles they might be willing to part with? Alternatively, has anybody bought the new MSA 240Z seat belt kit? Just wondering how these function (if anybody has them) and if infact they are compliant to Australian laws? I also mentioned some holes that are located behind my seats in the box section just in front of the rear tray riser panel (mine is a June 71 car) that very much appear factory cut. Suspect these had gromets in them (on both sides of the box section - upper and lower) but wonder if they are there for the purpose of installing inertia reels for later year models? Any feedback whatsoever on this topic, greatly appreciated. Adam.

SEATBELTS ... The belts that came with the car are horrid. I want a new set, but I want genuine or very period correct belts. My preference is for no inertia reels (just manually tightening ones). Having said that, I just looked at the MSA inertia set and they do look excellent in terms of period finish. Has anybody bought these, and are they legal for use in Australia? My car has some holes behind the seats that i needed to ask about. I have the usual hole with seat belt bolt through it. Behind the seats howewever there are two holes per side (both appear factory cut) that must need rubber plugs in them. Having said this, these holes go right through the body (and have upper and lower holes about 2" apart - in a boxed section) and I am wondering if these holes were what was used to mount the inertia reel on later models? My car came without inertia reels, but are these additional holes behind the seats designed for the installation of the inertia reel system? If so, is the MSA the best option at this stage?? Does anybody have any photos of the correct seatbelts for a mid 71 build car? Mine is a June 71 stamped car, chassis 00683. One more thing i need. On the end of the fore / aft adjustment handles under the seats, there are supposed to be some small black plastic slide on covers / handles. Does anybody that is not using their OEM seats have these? Many thanks, in anticipation

Hi Folks Just wondering if any of you metal artisans out there can / or would make me a custom Ally oil catch can? I want a can to sit on the passenger side between the ignition coil and battery, just in the void in front of the left strut tower. I have an exact size and shape in mind, but needed that old school look, complete with lumpy external welds, and a screw on type cap. If this is something you could help me with, please PM me. I actually think there is a ncie little business in this as aside from the rubbish ebay items, or a coke can and a bit of garden hose, there is literally nothing decent availble that is bespoke. What i am after is a nice solution, and something that will look great under the bonnet. Cheers Adam - The Brown Hornet -

Thanks Mick. Might post some pics of exactly what's what. On another note, tried to fit the rear interior tail light plastic cover that I bought from MSA today and it was a real nightmare. The holes don't exactly line with all the tabs, and at the ends, where they cover the wired section of the lights the plastic cover is too high, so it really does not fit all that well. I got a steel file and trimmed the bottom lip off the whole thing about 0.5cm and that helped a bit, but suspect the heat gun might be coming out over the course of the next few days. installed the rear quarter window interior panels and overhead cover and these being the original ones did fit, albeit suspect some patience and double sided tape might come in handy to properly align the ends into a neater finish. Installed the 'precision' brand (green bag) right door aperture seal today and can say, that this is a seriously well engineered item, and infinitely better than the other ones out there. Rubber is supple, very very well engineered and a 100% perfect and neat fit. I used OEM for the windows but can say this precision stuff is seriously impressive and worth whatever they are charging for it. HERE'S ONE FOR THE ANORAKS .... umm ... where does the factory paint colour decal go??? I have one, but have no idea where to stick it. And another thing I need; I have the OEM chrome coat hanger hooks, but LOST one of chrome screws ... can ANYBODY PLEASE HELP on this part??? This car WILL BE GOING IN THE SEPTEMBER SCHOOL HOLIDAYS (or so I am telling myself). Lastly, I had a really good chat to Stew Wilkins about suspension. At the moment, mines 100% standard. We're going to cut the legs and shorten, add threaded spring perches (for height adjustment), Koni Sport externally adjustables struts, King Tapered Wire Springs and reinstall and paint legs OEM black. Car will then be much firmer (but not silly), and is height and re-bound adjustable, WITH maintaining a decent travel length ... This will happen, of course once its running! Cheers all ... Adam

Excellent work Ladies, and much appreciated. There will certainly be MANY more anorak questions as the finer details come together. Adam

Ok guys. Some anorak questions, and the need for some tricky parts.... Here goes; 1) aside from rear tail lights, and rear number plate light, are they any other wires needed in the wiring loom of a 71 zed? Of course, the rear demist wires are there, but appear to come through alongside the interior overhead light. In my loom, I have two spare wires sitting off the main loom just behind the spare wheel well .. have NO IDEA what these might be needed for. Only thing I could think of is to wire up the lights for a trailer. I believe my car MAY have at one stage had a tow bar as there was some unusual holes in the rear deck either side of the spare tyre well (now loing gone though). 2) is there a interior door grab handle (the one on the angle) ONLY on the passenger side in the RHD cars? 3) Did Australian cars have a seat belt hanger hook on the side of the seat back, OR was this small plastic 'J' shaped hook screwed into the side of the the car, behind the door? I have the hook and screws, but am unsure where to install them, as I have seen this hook both on seat back, AND on the frame behind the door. 4) what OEM olour was the spare wheel, Black, or Silver frost? 5) was there a radiator overflow bottle fitted on the 71Z? 6) Does anybody have; a) an OEM 240Z wheel jack ( I have tools, but no jack), b) the little plastic covers that slip over the seat fore/aft adjustment handles, and c) a genuine masonite spare wheel well cover? Thanks Folks. Adam

Gents, I am looking for a genuine 240Z spare steel wheel (with tyre if poss), as well as a genuine masonite spare wheel cover. I live in Sydney, and even though I am using alloys on the car, I want a genuine spare in the back. I am also looking for an OEM jack for the tool boxes. Please PM me if you can help out, I am located in Sydney. Regards Adam Brown Hornet!