DoctorZ

Actually it was said to be a 260z, I just clarified that it's a 260z 2+2

I'm sorry to hear about your car man, takes all kinds to make up the world - good and bad. I hope you can sort the panels out easily!

So how did the meet go?

Actually it's a 260z 2+2!!

Reminds me of my favourite Zporn http://www.tomitaku.com

Looks like a real pro job, look forward to seeing it completed!

Thans guys, I paid $3,000 for mine in reasonable condition and I'm sure it's worth more than I paid. With some careful restoration I'm hoping to get it somewhere near $10,000

So what's a well restored 2+2 worth? Not necessarily completely original but in really good condition? The prices seem to be all over the place and nothing matches redbook.com

Nice buy, I can only hope you paid way more than I did for mine cause my 2+2 doesn't look like it's in as good condition as that!!

Hey Johnny, has your 2+2 been through RTA?

Yeah that's more like what I would go for in arch flares. Looks like it would be a pretty big job though

Yeah that's the smooth look but I would go more with the size of the bolt on ones.

Well don't get me wrong, if I had a big set of wide wheels I would get them. It's just that if there is a smooth flare option out there I reckon I'd prefer that. I don't know if there is such an option without integrating fiberglass to the body.

Yep that's the one, I've just removed the fender mirrors and blended in the flares. Tried to modify the colour too but didn't work all that well. I'm not sold on the bolt on flares, mostly because I don't like the bolt hole divets.

For those of us with a 2+2, here's my photoshop jobby Well, something like this anyway

Nice

In that case the question is answered. The L28 will stay for now. But a nice new exhaust will need to accompany her.

Look at me digging up old posts...yeeehaaarrgh! The rule of thumb for most engines from japan is whether they we're manufactured before or after 1975. Japan introduce unleaded petroleum in 1975 and pretty much all manufacturers either replaced their engines or introduced hardened valve seats to compensate for the lack of lead. If you're running a pre 75 head on unleaded then you can possibly be doing damage and not realising it until it's too late. You can switch to unleaded for a while because the lead you we're running will stay partly embedded in to the valve seats but will wear off over a short period of time. So basically you could have 2 motors of the same capacity and model but one was produced before 75 and one after 75, you could find different materials in the head therefore requiring different fuels. All that said, I'm not a mechanic so if anyone has better info or thinks I'm wrong, please post your expertise

As with any turbo motor, depends how much money you throw at it. Hence the reason I'm asking if it's worth it for a standard RB20DET, computer etc. I know it's possible to pick up one of these motors fairly cheap on occasion, but It's the engineering and RTA passing cost I'm worried about. Yes I would stay legal/

I think I cried for an hour when I heard you guys had been here :'( Had to go outside and hug my Zed for a while just to feel better. Don't look at me so holy!!

Thanks Lurch! Perhaps I'll try the Mild L28 path to start with, I don't even know if the engine I have is stock or not. Need to do a compression test and check my CAM out.

Yeah George you're probably right. Maybe just a different CAM and header/exhaust combo will do the trick. I still don't think the RB sounds as wild as an L series anyway.

I know I'm re-visiting some old posts here but I've been wondering, for those of you who have done engine conversions to RB series, was it worth the money and effort? I have been thining about an RB20DET conversion and I'm aware there's a lot more to the conversion than just a motor. I do love my l28 though so I think I would only consider it if the old girl breaks!

Thanks, I'll check them out!

I'm guessing the wheel I've pictured above isn't worth a lot in good condition anyway.