kolonelklink

common things to check: Establish if its rich or lean by reading plugs. check integrity of temperature sensor (this is separate to the temp meter sensor) check FP is stable. Check pump. check ignition coil. this sounds like an EFI problem... what has happened between the last time the car was running well and now? (what have you worked on?) Cheers, -p

Yeah me too, I've seen this on pyrmont, even stopped to compliment the owner ( i was driving my 260c 2door) Made it onto forums? -pete

honestly i dont know. my suspicion would be yes. just grab your old mc, go down to you local jap wrecker and ask nicely to look through thier "old nissan/datsun" brake bins untill you find something which matches the old mc flange pattern... you'll probably end up with an urvan mc with a remote res. i have now exhausted my knowledge on this topic. -pete

nissan urvan 15/16 m/c will work. go to a scrapyard. remove the remote resovoir and fit the ones from your current m/c. costs <30 bucks. -pete

out of curiousity what pad did you end up using with those calipers? did you have any clearance issues with the insulating spacers (as discussed)? -pete

looks great! i'm glad these calipers worked out for you

NICE. thank you very much for the visuals on our earlier discussions about ex. porting -a true artist doesn't hide his gifts! those look fantastic. -pete

the 23mm disc notch in the 12+8 caliper can be machined out to accept a 25mm rotor... am currently running these calipers with magna slotted rotors.

why do you need new injectors? will second hand ones do? You can get your old injectors serviced for a fraction of that cost + I have a bout a million used standard injectors at home if that might help you out? Also, never return to that mechanic for anything but dodgey pink slips (if they do them). Changing the injectors is a 30 minute job and the labour cost should reflect that. -pete

Pete this thing looks fantastic. big Kudos. -Peter

*sigh*

getting it idling then worry about the finer details... set timing at stock, idle screw conservative 800-1000 rpm You have 2 afm's yes? swap them and look for the same phenomenon... if it doesnt resolve with a different unit my instinct would be to start looking for vacuum leaks (sorry my knowledge on the AFM function is very limited). You might find it runs alot better after you work through undoing alot of the fiddling you've done trying to track down the earlier problem Is the cam stock? A aftermarket cam would make it "lumpy" or is it missing a cylinder? change your spark plugs and photograph them!!!!!! What colour is the smoke, how does it smell, how much is there? (basics basics basics) -pete

nws. If you're not sure about reading plugs swap in some brand new ones, run them for a bit (10 mins+?) and then pull them out and take a photo straight away, also note if they are wet (is it thick grimey wet with oil, liquidy and smells strongly of octane, or watery with a bit of green... dab it on paper if you have to) ... It will really help with troubleshooting if you know exactly what the problem is. Fuel plus spark plus air = bang... one of those is the problem so work out exactly which first then we can work backwards through EFI if nessecary. Although the normal instinct is to change things untill you find the problem it can stuff with you ability to locate problems by adding complexity... think about it like this: 1. If it was working and now isnt, something has changed. 2. It is probable that there is only one point of error 3. The probable source or error is the last thing that changed (what have you changed recently?) If you started fidling with wires and changing things stuff without following a logical process you may be introducing new errors - cables can come loose, short etc. The probability of finding two errors is exponentially greater than finding one because you only have one source of information output (does it work? - yes/no) I cannot recall the number of times i've changed a relay or wire and then had to adjust it afterwards because i'd let somehting sit loose or connected incorrectly. Without knowing is you've made a mistake you could potentially introduce a plethora of new problems Start from basics would be my strongest advice. -pete

No way... you couldn't pay me to take my MS off me. EFI is far superior to carbs in almost every aspect except simplicity for troubleshooting. Carbs are a metered leak, EFI gives superior atomization without the need for comprises in manifold air temperature, flow and port design required to maintain atomization in carburated systems. Don't blame EFI... the zx ecu is 30 years old and not built for user interface. That said, I don't think it sounds likely that the ecu is the source of failure, it would just be nicer if you could plug the laptop in and see the ECU readouts for troubleshooting like in a aftermarket system but that's how it goes. Keep us posted on progress... there are lots of simple tests you can use to track down the problem if you think about it logically. I also have HEAPS of zx efi spares that may help if you need. -Pete

+1 on cold start injector... I hear they a frequently dysfunctional in zx's... Clamp off the fuel if you have to (jammed open?) Test all injectors are firing? place a flathead screwdriver against the body of the injector and hold your ear to it.. listen for the "click click"... Check your plugs (are they black and wet?) Another thought: check your coolant temp sensor. A faulty sensor or bad connection will read VERY cold to the ECU which will rich-out to compensate. Good luck. -pete

Are you refering to the old graph done by 1fastz years ago? I would like to see some repetition of those tests given as far as i know he only tested one example of each. Also, I think the most recent part of the question made an allussion to port work: my understanding is that the castings between many of the n42 and e88 heads are interchangeable - I even have a late model stamped e88 with both n42 and e88 markings cast into the floor of the thermostat outlet. My suspicion is that the port castings are identical between e88 and n42 (but not the p90 as it has a shorter valve length. so... just putting this out there as questions to consider - 1. how good condition is each head (if your starting from a blank slate to get work done on a head your outcome will depend very strongly on this... heads of EFI cars tend to suvive better in my experience, look for det marks in the chambers(5-6) and corrosion ins the water jackets... signs of either should mean start with a different head) 2. What kind of port work are you considering and how does your exaust and intake complement this? 3. Do you need a quench pad? (compression??) or alternative (ceramic chambers?) Having looked into extreme head work before unless you have a "lewd--i--crus" amount of money to throw at it you're better off buying something from japan that has already been ported and welded. Hope this helps. -pete

care to elaborate further on this? source, pictures etc Furthermore... any experience with the exhaust side modification? Cheers! -pete

we're threadjacking. sorry Datpilot!! i got a whole unit and modified it as required... best bet seems to be keep an eye open on US ebay and put up with the shipping. pm me if you have other questions i dont want to divert the OP's thread. -pete

aftermarket - running megasquirt. I reccomend it... so much easier than messing with changing resistance values in all your sensors.

sorry pauly i edited the post before seeing your reply, pics above.

In that case i recommend converting the RB's to tail hoses even moreso! it wont cost you anyhting and you know what you're getting. As for ease of fitment - its really a no-brainer, takes about 20 minutes to do and costs almost nothing in hose and clamps (you can reuse to circular clamps from the stock rail or buy new ones)... I can send you a photo if you like? It's seriously a really neat easy trick and unless you plan on exceeding the HP rating of the stock fuel rail i would strongly reccommend it from personal experience. *edit* I had a pic lying around afterall... they pretty much look like the stock injectors, not messy etc. anyway I'll stop info dumping... just passing on hint I found helpful. cheers, -pete

I've used rb20det 270cc's no issues for over a year with EFI hose slid over the ends - they are cheap and good quality. use fresh o'rings on the backs and some of those circular fastener clips on each one. If it that doesn't seal well size down the o-ring a little bit and try again... you shouldn't have any trouble -pete

+1 just make sure you use the dowes... done it before, no issues. -pete

Has anyone tried using later model calipers for this upgrade? ie post-97? Is there a difference in the bolt spacing etc? cheers -pete

I recognise that car as the "rat rod z"... I remember the wells being cut with a plasma cutter to get those wheels to fit... Nice bit of feral boso style though... FYI the tyres are stretched out 225's so not so much tread amyway