gilltech

Like I said, the sparkly blue infill was on many Z auto badges I have seen over the years. But I think it's the same situation as on the factory mag wheel centres, the blue paint infill shrunk & detached & soon fell out leaving bare textured chrome & no trace it was ever there.

Yes some special edition 280ZXs had gold (anodized?) mags. I have seen a set on a late 260 but am fairly sure that it was a retro-fit.

Actually I think the sparkly blue infill paint is original, like the mag wheel centres.

Looks like the smaller one on the rear hatch; found on those Zeds badged as 260Zs & not Fairladys obviously; the ones on the front guards are larger & have a reddy-orange flat Z.

Hi Mossy, I'll take both sets of bumper guard rubbers if they're still available. I'm in Brisbane though so will have to be posted. You can email me on gilltech@bigpond.com.au Thanks, John

Mudflaps were generally dealer options or accessories from aftermarket suppliers. They tend to spoil the lines unless you like the rally car look but they do protect the paintwork, especially the front ones protecting the sills. Depends what sort of roads you travel. Where they attach to the bodywork there is the potential for moisture entrapment.

One key for the ignition, & a second key for the doors, hatch, gas flap & glovebox. Are two different styles of key.

I'm with MaygZ et all - put it in storage, that's got to be repairable at a reasonable price, surely!

Some brands of cars have brake light switches mounted on & activated at the brake reservoir itself rather than by the pedal - has your car got a reservoir transplant perhaps? Even then, I can't see the point of deleting the Datsun one, very strange.

Both wires are black on my '74 car loom & also same on my spare loom; the female plug connections are a branch of the underdash loom & should be up under the dash somewhere & not too far away as the branch loom is not very long. Has some PO rigged up some other system to activate the brake lights? Can't imagine why anyone would though.

I agree, the bypass valve should be contained in the bare block itself.

Same as Whittie - if you've got room to store it dry, then keep it, don't let it go if it's so much a part of your personal history. You can fix it later.

I used one out of a 280 or 300ZX in my 260, compact housing, fitted up nicely.

DatPilot, if it's any help I had a similar 'bang' with my 260 years ago, R200 diff, & it turned out to be a shear pin in the spider gears that had indeed sheared allowing the gear housing to rotate & sometimes lock up hence the bang when it locked or unlocked when stopping or moving off from a standstill. I had to open the diff up to find the problem.

The 260s & at least the early 280ZXs used the same cap, being a white 'Z' on a metallic blue background recessed into a rounded/square chrome plastic cap. But another style came out later with a black Z on chrome, shallower in style & had metal insertion fingers instead of the fragile plastic. I have examples of both styles.

Further to Veloce's original query above, I too am mystified, as I've seen a fair few 240s & early 260s in bits in my time but have never seen any 'hinge rubbers'. Were they added by Nissan to the later 260s? I know that the rubber seals on the body shell were revised at some point.

Ditto comments above, & the engine number (eg L26######) is stamped towards the upper edge of the block, on RHS, towards the rear. Vehicle's factory ID plate is rivetted to the front fender apron just in front of the strut tower on RHS of engine bay, & records the body shell no. & the (original) engine no.

I could really use a gearbox if no-one already has dibs on them, one or both. Ditto the bonnet; or if already gone, anyone else got a good one they can spare & non-rusty, vented or non-vented? John - home ph 3356-5284 Brisbane north-side; will collect. gilltech@bigpond.com.au

In all my reference material I have never heard of a T roof on a 240/260/280, but of course it's possible - I've learnt with American cars that plenty of exceptions to the generally published guidelines for models exist & are actually more numerous than one would ever think & not just prototypes - factories with car-construction resources are capable of creating all sorts of variations for senior staff or preferred customers or to showcase at special events. (There would have to be some careful modification to the roof structure in this instance). And there are, or perhaps were, also plenty of talented bodyshops around. Someone might have decided to emulate the 280ZX Targa that came out a couple of years later on their baby. Ditto Rev, my very early 260 2-seat had flat-tops all as part of it's basic emissions controls. I have a book that states that the very last of the 240's in 1973 were similarly equipped which was one reason that the '71& '72's were preferred. The 260 & 280z bonnet vents were a factory initiative in later years due to vapor lock problems reported in hot climates like Arizona etc, & elevated underhood temperatures thanks to more creature comforts like A/C being fitted. Lots of people have retro-fitted vents of various types for that reason.

Thanks NZeder, I was thinking that the internals might be different given that the horn pads are so different in size. My stock 260 wheel has started to perish in the foam so I'll need a replacement eventually. I kinda like the old school 'wood' look of the 240 so that is one option.

Correct, some market(s) got a twin-barrel down-draft (DAF?) set-up, with round filter, but I don't know which one(s). I have a w/shop manual that gives details. As did other Datsuns that used the same engine, like 240K's. All due to different or lesser emissions control requirements apparently.

Here's a Question for the experts then, & before a moderator jumps down my throat, no I haven't yet seen this asked or found a thread on it - would a standard factory 240z (the replica-wood-type) steering wheel fit & work (as in horn operation, turn signal cancellation, etc) on a 260z? Or vice versa, or are they so totally different in the internals?

A paint industry expert friend of mine recommends 12 to 15 cfm for high quality spray painting work, no less. Get a decent one, you can always on-sell it once you've finished with it.

Cheers Galderdi, they're not far from home so I'll contact them.

I'd be interested in your expert feedback & comments, & specifications, as if it's not listed at an unrealistic silly price I'd be quite keen to take a look at it myself.