gilltech

FWIW I've been told that no, they don't just bolt in, by a Z dismantler / used parts supplier, years ago. And I agree with Scoota G's post that the 260's heater or a/c box mounting is quite different, for starters, but I also have a suspicion that the lower outer corner fixings are located differently. When it comes to swapping over 240/260Z dashboards & electrical systems the big hassle is the differences between 240 and 260 wiring loom plugs; but if you're using a 260 loom in any case then hopefully all is well. I guess all you can do is sit a 260 dash & a/c unit in place & try it for fit to see whether some simple bracket mods are all that are required.

280ZX, 240K, 200B lower ball joints, pair, brand new part #BJ-151 Supplied to me in error for my 260 a couple of years ago, now too late to return them; on eBay they are $50 plus freight of around $10, asking just $15, collect from Grange, Brisbane north-side.

You have to re-use the chrome stripping so be careful not to warp it. Manually straighten the staples & re-use to install the new rubber, use a tiny drill bit for each staple prong, & just neatly bend the prongs down again. It's a bit tedious but do it carefully & accurately & it'll come up fine. Check your window glass for alignment in the frame & tweak adjust if needed before you install any new seals.

Yes that's the B-210, sold in Australasia as a 120Y with 1200cc push-rod motor. But motor could be 1200, 1300 or 1400cc depending on the market. I didn't realise the South Africans used a 1600cc as well but doesn't surprise me, they liked to put bigger motors into pretty much anything sold in their market, look at the Cortinas & Capris for starters. In North America the B-210 had the big chunky bumpers of the era. Front was generally pair headlights but some markets used a different grille with an additional pair of running lamps. Those taillights are completely different to the 120Y design we have here. The body was produced in 2-door hatchback, & both 2-door & 4-door sedans & wagons. FWIW NZ did local CKD assembly of the 120Y 4-door sedan & also did a limited run of SSS versions for racing, I owned one from nearly new & it went like stink - had a pair of 400mm twin-choke Dellorto side draught carbs, engine mods, lowered, alloys & other trick bits of the era.

Many thanks Mr C for digging up that image, looks like I just need a little nut & bolt then. Thanks again! Much appreciated. John

Hi PB, cheers for your input but no it's a loop terminal to take a screw. I'm obviously missing something that fits to the centre of the wheel. And I'll need to find a suitable spring. The 260 wheel has no such wire, uses a larger spring, & is quite different in design. Oh well, I'll experiment with it today. Cheers, John

Can anybody advise me what that black wire terminal connects to? Would it attach to a large washer under the steering wheel retaining nut for instance? Thanks, John

Bought a 240 wheel with horn cap some time back, am now attempting to fit same to my 260 but suspect I may be missing component(s). For starters will have to track down a suitable spring as the 260 one is larger diameter & doesn't fit into the 240 wheel. And there's a black wire with a loop terminal that has me stumped, refer photos; suspect it attaches to a component I don't have. The 240 horn cap I have has no metal components & just push fits into place it would appear, over wire springs, whereas the 260 cap twist/locks on. Quite different. Anybody got their's apart & can advise? That would be much appreciated. John

Or if you get stuck then I also have a spare speedo from a 260 2+2 which I'm happy to sell, am in Grange Brisbane north-side.

I agree, check the camber each side - it's not uncommon for the front struts/stub axle to get bent, such as if the car has gone sideways into a kerb at some stage in it's life. So even for starters have a look at the clearance between strut & tyre on each side so see if the pair match.

Take the frame apart & replace the plain steel angle bracket inside, & rust-proof it all before reassembly.

Ditto 240charlie's comment, they suit a two-tone due to the body lines IMO.

Good point, they always seem to be red, blue, brown, or cream... ??

Bought from a Z owner dismantling his parts car, hoarding it as a spare for my 260 several years ago. But I'll never use it so it's available if anyone needs one, asking $150 ono. SOLD Pick up only from Grange, Brisbane north-side.

The 2-seat & 2+2 consoles are the same, except the 2+2 has the ashtray in back whereas the 2-seat deletes the ashtray & has a clip-in blanking panel instead.

I don't know that there ever were any genuine ones???. These SS guards were generally after-market items available from dealers and speed shops and people fitted them to all sorts of cars back in the '70's, looked a bit nicer than black rubber. They came in different sizes and profiles. No doubt Nissan Datsun dealers fitted them too.

I think there are about 5 tank variations between '70 & '78, but whether that's tank shape or just the venting system I don't know. Scoota G, is the 2+2 tank any different to the 2-seater one?

For which year & model?

Asking price? You can pm me on 040 668 1379. Thanks.

Glad that's sorted, very frustrating for you. Educational for us all though, this forum is great for sharing knowledge. Yes the 240 & 260 look so much the same but many parts just don't interchange across the years as you'd think they would. 260 owners have to be careful too, early vs mid vs late production. There's been quite recent discussion on this forum about pedal box swaps 260 into 240, might pay to check it out.

Have I got this the right way round, your wheel hubs have the correct usual Z rectangular bolt pattern, whereas the (possibly unknown model) R200's shafts have the square pattern? Query for the experts: can the R180 end flanges be fitted to the R200 half shafts at the universal joint, or are they different sizes? (Sorry, I don't have an R180 here to compare myself). Or, as an alternative to cutting & welding as Whittie has done, I ask again whether the offending holes can be welded up & re-drilled to suit your wheel hub pattern? Do the flanges fit & mate up correctly other than the actual bolt pattern?

Just checked my 260 with R200, & my spare R200, & all bolt patterns are rectangular, roughly 50mm one way & 55mm the other. And the R180 I used years ago must have been the same or it wouldn't have fitted. Can't imagine why 200Z wheel flanges would be different to 240/260Z models, but they must be. Ledge's posting above is right, either find a pair of 'square' flanges to install on the R200 halfshafts - can you get yours back? or perhaps someone on this forum has got a pair - or, change the wheel hub but who knows what that would entail until you pull it all apart & compare. However, just a thought - for the engineering gurus on this forum - can the 'rectangular' half shaft wheel end flange be re-drilled to fit the 'square' 200Z hub? Ie. changed to a square pattern, shifting all holes sideways by approx 2-3mm, inwards or outwards you measure your wheel hub flanges & advise.

Well if Gavin doesn't want it I'll be very glad to take it Stevo, mine has seen better days - got bent out of shape & twisted during towing, profile is all wrong.

You're right about the Zed in the original (1973?) "Gone in 60 Seconds", there are several 240Zs in the background, carparks etc. Mind you, the filmmaker clearly re-used the same cars over & over as backgrounds & extras in different scenes.

Your info is correct - keep the respective half shafts with their diff as a set. I've done the reverse with no problems, fitting a complete R180 incl halfshafts into my manual 260 as a temporary replacement to keep me mobile until a sound replacement R200 was found. All bolted up, didn't have to change anything on the wheel hubs. Are you quite sure you have correctly tried rotating one of the mating flanges 90 degrees? It's been a fair while but I recall the hole pattern being offset, ie. slightly rectangular not square. Fit everything up loosely first, the halfshafts need to be wriggled around & rotated as required to correctly slot into place especially at the wheel flange end. Now I'll have to look at my spare R200 under the house in daylight tomorrow to check if my memory serves me well.