PeterAllen

Is it something like this?

Gavin - When I purchased the car the gutter had been removed from the roof but the seam not welded, as the shell is on a rotisserie it became the critical first task. The rest of the shell could then be stitched and strengthened to prevent sagging when I removed sections for repairs - floor pans and doglegs are next on the list. I had the floor rails made up over 12 months ago. The rails themselves are very cheap to have made up - $50 - the difficulty is knowing what size they need to be. I'm sure there will be some adjustments required to actually fit mine but when I have them attached I will post sketches and sizes so members can go to their local fabrication shop and have them made up. Here is another photo of the part engine bay rail and firewall bracket. Welding the shaved gutter The floor rails

It's been a very long time getting to this point with my project but I think I've turned the corner, momentum wise. I had the shell stitch-welded last week... that's the good news. Bad news is, the patches that were previously welded to the engine-bay rails were not covering rust as I thought but kinks. Although the car's geometry is excellent is has had a big shunt and been pulled out. Anyway, took my beer-carton template to TAFE on Monday night and made up a new section. Not finished yet but I thought some members might be interested. Also, welcome to the two AusZCar members who have joined the panel-beating class.

Adam. I have been led to believe that the first Aus 240Zs were 1044kg and were up to 1099kg with the introduction of the 260z 2 seater.

Remember that removal is only HALF the job. If you don't treat the bare metal very quickly then surface rust will soon appear. That's one reason I didn't go with the sodablast - I would have had to have it primed at another location. I had my shell sand blasted and etch prime for $1000 and there was no distortion. The mob I went to do car bodies all the time. Its been on the rotisserie for 18 months since. I am just about to have the shell TIG stitch/seam welded. The welder chap was worried that he might have trouble striking an arc and we rubbed the primer with a hand held wire brush. Bugger me if we couldn't break through the primer. I don't know exactly what it is but it's tough - I'm thinking of spraying on my daughters before they go out on their dates!

These people annoy me when they try to obfuscate the truth. What is a 260Z Cleon - do they mean Klingon! V12 - Did they count six and then walk around to the other side of the car and count six again! I agree with you about the dash - he should see me for a real replica, http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3783.0.html There is a sensational 250 GTO replica in Melbourne - http://aussieexotics.com:80/forum/ferrari/ferrari-club-victoria-2009-concours-d’elegance-19-april-2009-t4369.0.html Which has a fascinating story - http://www.autosmobilis.com/contro.htm One went to auction a couple of years ago but was passed in when the bidding only reach $300,000US Also, I understand someone in Oz had a spare Ferrari V12 they were considering fitting to a 260Z, - they had both the car and the engine - but I've heard nothing about it for over 12 minths.

I think this is drifting off the topic and, I don't own or wear an anorak!

Those Peter Tobin photos look like the old Hume Weir circuit. The number plate on Michael Connor's Zed at Bathurst look Victorian to me and the other images on that site suggest he hailed from there. In the truly great days of Bathurst registered car were often driven to the track and raced. Note also the earth embankment at the 'dipper', not the kitty-litter runoff these soft sissy blokes have today!

Folks, please note is not appropriate to post images that are not yours without acknowledging the site or photographer where they come from. Copyright, professional acknowledgement and most of all common decency, (i.e. ethics), require it.

There are quite a few Aussie racing Datsun photos here, including 240Zs: http://www.autopics.com.au/cache/searchl-ncache0public_nameLIKE_datsun_name_0-0.html Here is one from that site. Bathurst 1973, but it looks more like Easter than October to me. Note how ZED660's avatar shows him doing a impersonation of this some 36 yrs later!

Something to consider when fitting retractable belts. The trigger mechanism is a pendulum (like the dice hanging from your rearview mirror!), when the 'g' force exceeds the retractor settings the pendulum moves and triggers the lock. That is why you often cannot pull the belt from the retractor when the car is parked on a slope. If you intend to buy belts make sure the retractor has the correct mounting orientation, i.e. vertical or horizontal. Those designed for 'B' pillar mounting will not work on the strut tower. Note: I'm recalling 1970s design here, so if anyone knows that the trigger design has changes please chime in.

Enrol in this course and make your own! http://www.sit.nsw.edu.au/courses/search.php?cid=16047&area=courses&Media_Index_ID=169 The starting date for next term is 19th October, not 21Sept. Note the English wheels... perfect for making a new roof. All materials included in the fee.

Have you consulted an engineer about this? I see you give your location as Wollongong which implies a NSW registration. At present only 5.3ltr engines can be fitted to 260Zs in NSW. They are supposed to be adopting the National standard which will allow up to 5.5ltr but they have been saying that for 3 years. Don't rush into something that can't be registered.

Have you tried Paul Woolf at Zbits in Qld.

I pass that car at least twice a week and I can tell you it has been sitting on the lawn for at least 3 years I know of. It has been a shame to see any car left like that. Here is an indication of what you would need to do... and probably a lot more. http://zclub.net/gallery/showgallery.php?ppuser=1079&cat=500

I'm stripping the window and winder mechanism out of my 240Z and replacing them with Lexan sliding windows - weight saving is quite significant. One thing I noticed when I had it all apart was that the mounting slots for the window winder were elongated beyond factory manufacture. I was going to repair it if I ever wanted to refit the mechanism. The TAFE teacher told me that it was an old motor trimmers' trick to stop window rattle with worn runners. Though it might be useful information. The TAFE course for next term is taking enrolments. My thoughts after one term are that you really need to have a project underway to do the course otherwise you will just be making exercise pieces that go in the bin. You don't need a whole car, just a guard or a door that you can bring in each week. http://www.sit.nsw.edu.au/courses/search.php?cid=16047&area=courses&Media_Index_ID=169 http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/4100/windowwinderslots1.jpg[/img (edit - sorry, can't seem to upload images?)

The stub axles have a slightly larger cross-sectional diameter and 27 splines compared to the 25 splines on the 240Z.

Here is a South Australian publication which carries plenty of Clubman technical articles - https://customkitcarmagazine.com/. It was available at newsagents but now only by direct purchase. I have all the issues so you can check them out when you drop around. You sound like a 'doer' and I fully understand your desire to move on and your interest in Clubmans. I'm even thinking of a GT40 and I've still got 3 years to go on this one!

To be honest I think your car, as fantastic as it is, appeals to a very very small market, but nonetheless a market. Owners should never view these cars as a financial investment, particularly modified cars. People buying Zeds are prodominantly Gen Ys with limited finance, or old farts like me trying to relive our youth. The older guys are either cashed up and want what they had, or dreamed of having, i.e an original 240Z, or, are skilled (stupid!) enough to buy something in need of restoration and/or suitable for modification - just for something to do. Either way it's an emotional purchase for them. The financial downturn even has these old blokes nervous about self-indulgent exercises. I have friends who have spent years building Cobras or restoring imported Mustangs and they sell them, at a loss, within two years of completion because they much prefer building them than driving them. My V8 project owes my >$23k and it's still on the rotisserie! - but I love it. I know I will never recoup the cost but I don't care. I don't know what it might cost you but I would suggest you try a Shannons auction with a reserve price. It will let you know the going market price. A Toyota powered V8 with GTO kit went for $36k a couple of years ago. To reiterate, don't dispare, there is a market but it's very small and I wish you the best. PS. I have 16" rims and I'm in 'The Shire' if you are interested. Geoff knows me.

Mate - To show some morale support I've just gone down to the shed in the freezing cold to take a couple of snaps of my car. I'm wondering whether 'lead wiping' might not be the answer to much of your worm (see Mull/Hugo). I'm just about to start a 9 x 3hrs/week, 6-9pm, 'Vehicle Restoration Course' in Sydney where you get to work on your own project. I'm hoping to pick up skills like that. If nothing else the instructor will be able to advise me on the best technique for each problem then I can decide whether to have a go myself or pay to have it done. Whatever you do don't use bog as the rust will be back in 24 months Have you looked at it from underneath? I hate to say it, but it could get worse. Hang in there.

Menzcar - I suggest you firstly establish how aligned/misaligned your frame is, that's the most important factor. My front rails had some damage but just last week I dropped a plumb-bob off the designated points and found, to my delight, the alignment is mm perfect, so I'm going to leave largely as is. If your alignment is okay but you are worried about looks then you could cover them with a 'U' shaped faux rail as a easier option than a total replacement - this technique is often used to cover crushed rails under the passenger compartment rather than the 'remove & replace' option. It is very important to note that you must completely seal the joins of the faux rails as any moisture between them and the original rails will be a breeding ground for RUST.

Just a reminder that there are apparently two 15/16" 280ZX master cylinders. One has the mounting holes horizontal and has a one piece reservoir, the other has vertical mounting hole as per the 240/260Zs and has a two piece reservoir. The later, as I understand it, is a straight forward swap. I've not done it myself, just what I gleaned from the web! The following is from Hydrid Z: MASTER CYLINDERS The stock master cylinder is really unsuitable for any 4 piston caliper upgrade. It works marginally for the Toyota 4 piston calipers, but really increases the pedal throw. A 79-81 280ZX master is a nice upgrade and is suggested by Modern Motorsports and Arizona Z Car when using their brake kits discussed above. There are two masters in the ZX's. The early one has dual reservoirs and fits onto a Z booster. The later one has a single reservoir and has the reservoirs clocked 90º making it incompatible with the Z booster. Here is the better ZX master (79-81):

I'm running late model Holden CVs with a Holden LSD diff. Plenty of parts and plenty of ratios available. I had to make up adaptors and I will have to have shortened axles made.

I have one from my 3/72 240Z but I want to sell it with all the gauges - MPH, etc. I don't know what it's worth but I'll post it on ebay if you are interested. Send me a PM.

The LS1 and six-speed t56 weigh only 15 kg more than the original 240Z engine and gearbox. When the LS1/t56 is set back in the bay, all 15 kg ends up on the rear wheels. Cost wise - I bought a 2005 VZ SS Ute at salvage for $5200 and sold the unwanted (and undamaged) bits for $2400 on eBay. The LS1(335bhp), t56, LSD diff, loom, etc, owes me $2,800 - cheap as chips.