PeterAllen

Here are the NSW regs. When I read them (some time ago) an alternative engine's capacity was related the the car's weight not OEM capacity but read them yourself to make sure. You can increase the capacity of an OEM engine by 15% without the need for approval - that might be where the 2.4 to 3.1 was calculated, although I calculate that to be 2.76 and a 2.8 to 3.24. http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi_06_-_guidelines_for_light_vehicle_modifications_nov_2007.pdf Most other states are now signed up to the National regs which calculate capacity limits differently. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx - See NPOC3 At this point in time an LS1 240Z cannot be registered in NSW but can elsewhere. If NSW don't adopt the national regs by the time I'm ready for registration I'll be in deep excrement!

LS1 and t56 adds only 15 kg to a standard 240Z. It's an all alloy block and when set back in the engine bay the extra weight is all over the rear wheels. Gavin made an important point I missed. With an LS1 you will need big brakes to pass engineering.

If you simply want 'bang for bucks' then I suggest go outside the square and consider an LS1. $3000 = 250kW (335bhp) standard engine, 6-speed box, loom, etc. That equates to $325 per 20bhp increase (I'm subtracting the original L24 151bhp and calculating on the mere 184bhp increase). There is probably another $3000 to install it... engine mounts, radiator, extractors, etc... but if you have to do that with other alternative engines then don't include it. Unquestionable reliability and parts/service available all over Oz. If you want to stick to Nissan then ignore all the above.

yellazed - I didn't receive your PM. If you are still interested please try again. chris - I left a message on your phone but have not heard back from you. Irrespective of any pre-orders I am going ahead and making a mould when TAFE resumes in February.

Not sure if this helps but I spoke to the guys at Davies Craig thermatic fans http://www.daviescraig.com.au/ about this and they recommended 2 x 12" fans for my LS1 so that gives some indication of the minimum area. I'm trying to position the radiator low to facilitate an over-the-radiator cold air intake. I'm having a 12" x 24" radiator made by these guys - $500 to my specifications (which I haven't quite worked out just yet). http://www.alloyradiators.com.au/ Mick 'zed240au' should be able to advise you, I think he went with the JTR. What V8 are you running and what HP will be important.

John - divert your eyes. I am of the opinion that there is very little, if any, structural integrity in the floor pans and roof skin. I spent a few years crash barrier testing vehicles and unibody shells contain an underlying main structure. Basically flat sheet panels are not stress bearing. The danger lies in either rust or crash damage having weakened the load bearing components and you are correct to advise on extra bracing as a precaution. I was only prepared to do this to mine once it had been seam welded. Loui - Just check that your seat front mount will match the centre rib that runs the length of the new floor pan. For some reason on my passenger side OEM the rib stopped short of the mount and I had to modify the mount for the new floor. Also... damn you... you have done more in four months than I've done in four years! Great work.

bluerat - There are plenty of Australian threads on that site which should have references to Longford. There was something not so long ago about Wally Mitchell (sp). Here is an example: http://forums.autosport.com/index.php?showtopic=93148 There are plenty of enthusiast who would love to see your photos so you might care to post. My slides sat forgotten in their boxes for 30+ years and people now ooh and arr over them. Here is a photo supplied by Terry Walker on that thread. Bruce McLaren and Graham Hill at Longford. Note the parade cars.

If you are interested, here's how it all came about. http://forums.autosport.com/index.php?showtopic=17388 Wish someone would do Warwick Farm.

I thought the Tasmanians and the older petrol-heads might enjoy this. A recreation of Longford, circa 1967. I understand that road closures make it no longer possible to do a full lap.

Gentlemen - I very much appreciate the relevant replies (I also note the time take by some to post irrelevant one!), and the generous offer by ss. Some young whippersnapper off-site has offered to do the whole works so I shall see how that goes... now let me see... where did I put those slides... I know I put them in a safe place!

Thanks George, I'll be in contact. Here are some samples. Sir Jack The late Frank Gardner in the famous Mildren 'Yellow Submarine'

Here is hopefully something we old-timers can learn from the Gen Ys. As a wee lad I took many many colour slides of motor racing at Warwick Farm and Catalina, etc. and I'm now posting them on a Historic Motor Racing forum. Some of the old drivers and the present owners of the cars photographed have requested scans of the slides... I have actually obtained a sit in Sir Jack's Repco Brabham in exchange for some photos, so it's 'pretty cool' as you young folk say. I've just been using the 'automatic settings' so far but now one person wants to make a poster of one image. I would like to know if I should 'max out' on the pixel resolution (or whatever) when I scan the slide or is that a waste of time. Can someone advise me on the settings I should be using on the scanner?

If you haven't stuffed the threads, I have a spindle puller that may assist.

Just goes to illustrate the practical advantages of a rotisserie - no more overhead welding! I think the biggest issue (weakest link) with rotisseries is not their strength per se, but how they attach to the rear bumper points. I get very nervous when I see cars with their rear-end, wheels and even the hatch panel, all attached and swinging off those bumper mounts. I am just about to fit sleeves through the rear rails on mine to be the new rear rotisserie points for when I am reshaping the rear wheel arches.

A few comments: A good working height for the pivot points is approx 1250mm above the ground. The axis of rotation of a stripped 240Z shell is 75mm above the bumper mounts - both front and rear, i.e. your pivot points should be 75mm above the bumper mounts. (see photos) The castor wheels should be at least 4" dia to reduce the rolling resistance - Cheap as buggery on eBay and get the ones with brakes! There have been several made with these basic dimensions and they all work fine. Note: Check with the blaster about the castor wheels. I reassembled mine at the blaster's only to find that the openings in the grate they use as a floor in the blasting chamber snagged on the wheels. I don't quite understand your reference to the trailer/rotisserie, but three blokes can easily carry a stripped shell.

Wait wait wait... Even though the car is old (mature!) it might be worthwhile to find out which number the RTA has associated with the car. Give them a call at 'technical enquiries' and see what's what. They have specialist rebirth VIIU ("view") officers. I'm not suggesting there is anything suspect with the car but I know they have very strict protocols around this sort of thing. Make perfectly sure it can be registered with the number you decide to go with.

Theory #1 - The markings are unintentional and possibly resulted when the ADR compliance plate was stamped by some heavy-handed person - assuming the plate was placed of a firm surface to be stamped and then riveted to the normal position on the side of the strut tower. Check to see if the letters dimensions are the same as on the compliance plate. The '6' in lieu of the '8' might simply be the '8' punch was not square when struck. If so, this may have occurred at the Datsun dealership when the car was first registered or during a rebirth!

Would I be correct in assuming the flat plate items are shims and that each door may or may not require them? If so, were they manufactured in different thicknesses? Could someone provide a photo of these fitted. These were not fitted to my car when I got it so I'm a little unsure about how they are to be mounted.

I thought I had been following this thread but apparently not. What's with the door lock/s? I'm swapping over to Honda locks and thus have a unwanted pair.

Just a note of caution on some of these ideas. Under Australian regulations you cannot remove any of the boot floor, other than the spare tyre well. If you do you would face difficult engineering approval. If you are not running a V configuration or duel bank engine then a duel exhaust might be regarded as a bit ...

I would encourage anyone who does not have the engineering expertise not to experiment with brakes. Buy and fit a proven kit, it's easier for roadworthiness inspections and insurance claims. Buy a local kit or even the ArizonaZ front kit which is $789US... that's $852AUS right now. You will need the 260 front hubs and a 15/16" or bigger master cylinder but you will need that with any bigger brake setup. As I understand it (please check) they will fit under 15" rims. Please, please, please... don't start on about dust seals. Use 'search' to review the countless arguments about them - Wilwoods are legal in Australia.

Type "spot weld" into eBay - you should purchase the three extra 5/16" cutters while you are at it. In fact I would recommend you buy two of the tools as they are inexpensive. The remover cuts through one layer and allows you to separate lap joints. You need to think about which half you want the hole to be in. To use it; - centre-punch the middle of the spot weld, - position the pointer on the arbor in the centre-punch indentation, - cut through the top layer - a puff of brown dust (rust) with usually indicate you have gone through the top layer. Notes: You can use a small drill bit to make the centre-punch point a bit deeper if the tool starts to wander around. It's also a good idea to flatten out the area you intend to cut so the cutter gets an even start.

There is a lesson here for others contemplating a floor replacement. If you want to retain the seat mounts then carefully remove them with a spot-weld remover. I actually left the front bracket attached to the transmission tunnel and sill. I think your best option now is to try and resurrect your original mounts or see if Paul Woolf (sp) at ZBits might cut you out some old brackets.

I'm not sure what diff you are running but with the Greenback in such bad shape an ArizonaZ bar might be worth consideration. http://www.arizonazcar.com/brakes.html I really only developed my bar for the GM diff with a focus on where is would be positioned. You have made me realise I need to put a bit more consideration into its strength.

Fairly simple... just fit a new floor and rails.