PeterAllen

Gareth. Here is a synopsis. CARROLL SMITH’S CAUSE AND EFFECT GUIDE RIDE AND ROLL RESISTANCE-SPRING Too much spring: overall • Harsh and choppy ride • Much unprovoked sliding • Car will not put power down on corner exit – excessive wheel-spin Relatively too much spring: front • Understeer – although the car may initially point in well • Front breaks loose over bumps in corners • Front tyres lock while braking over bumps Relatively too much spring: rear • Oversteer immediately on application of power • Excessive wheel-spin Too little spring: overall • Car contacts the track a lot • Floating ride with excess vertical chassis movement, pitch and roll • Sloppy and inconsistent response • Car slow to take a set – may take more than one Relatively too little spring: rear • Excessive squat on acceleration accompanied by excessive rear negative camber, leading to oversteer and poor power down characteristics • Tendency to fall over on outside rear tyre and ‘flop’ into oversteer and wheel-spin ANTI-ROLL BARS Too much anti-roll bar: overall • Car will be very sudden in response and will have little feel • Car will tend to slide or skate rather than taking a set – especially in slow and medium speed corners • Car may dart over one wheel or diagonal bumps Relatively too much anti-roll bar: front • Corner entry understeer which usually becomes progressively worse as the driver tries to tighten the corner radius. Relatively too much anti-roll bar: rear • If the imbalance is extreme can cause corner entry oversteer • Corner exit oversteer. Car won’t put down power but goes directly to oversteer due to inside wheel-spin • Excessive sliding on corner exit • Car has a violent reaction to major bumps and may be upset by ‘FIA’ kerbs Too little anti-roll bar: overall • Car is lazy in response, generally sloppy • Car is reluctant to change direction in chicane and esses Relatively too little anti-roll bar: front • Car ‘falls over’ onto outside tyre on corner entry and then washes out into understeer • Car is lazy in direction changes Relatively too little anti-roll: rear • My own opinion is that on most road courses a rear anti-roll bar is a bad thing. Anti-roll bars transfer lateral load from the unladen tyre to the laden tyre – exactly what we don’t want at the rear. I would much rather use enough spring to support the rear of the car. The exception comes when there are ‘washboard ripples’ at corner exits, as on street circuits and poorly paved road circuits. SHOCK ABSORBER FORCES Too much shock: overall • A very sudden car with harsh ride qualities, much sliding and wheel patter • Car will not absorb road surface irregularities but crashes over them Too much rebound force • Wheels do not return quickly to road surface after displacement. Inside wheel in a corner may be pulled off the road by the damper while still loaded • Car may ‘jack down’ over bumps or in long corners causing a loss of tyre compliance. Car does not power down well at exit of corners when road surface is not extremely smooth Too much bump force: general • Harsh reaction to road surface irregularities. • Car slides rather than sticking • Car doesn’t put power down well - driving wheels hop. Too much low piston speed bump force • Car’s reaction to steering input too sudden • Car’s reaction to lateral and longitudinal load transfer too harsh Too much high piston speed bump force • Car’s reaction to minor road surface irregularities too harsh – tyres hop over ‘chatter bumps’ and ripples in braking areas and corner exits. Too little shock: overall • Car floats a lot (the Cadillac ride syndrome) and oscillates after bumps • Car dives and squats a lot • Car rolls quickly in response to lateral acceleration and may tend to ‘fall over’ onto the outside front tyre during corner entry and outside rear tyre on corner exit. • Car is generally sloppy and unresponsive Too little rebound force: overall • Car floats – oscillates after bumps (the Cadillac ride syndrome) Too little bump force: overall • Initial turn in reaction soft and sloppy • Excessive and quick roll, dive and squat Too little low piston speed bump force • Car is generally imprecise and sloppy in response to lateral (and, to a lesser extent longitudinal) accelerations and to driver steering inputs Too little high piston speed bump force • Suspension may bottom over the largest bumps on the track resulting in momentary loss of tyre contact and excessive instantaneous loads on suspension and chassis Dead shock on one corner • A dead shock is surprisingly difficult for a driver to identify and/or isolate • At the rear, that car will ‘fall over’ onto the outside tyre and oversteer in one direction only • At the front, the car will ‘fall over’ onto the outside tyre on corner entry and then understeer. WHEEL ALIGNMENT Front toe-in: too much • Car darts over bumps, under heavy braking and during corner entry – is generally unstable • Car won’t point into corners, or if extreme. May point in very quickly and then dart and wash out Front toe-out: too much • Car wanders under heavy braking and may be somewhat unstable in a straight line, especially in response to single wheel or diagonal bumps and/or wind gusts • Car may point into corners and then refuse to take a set • If extreme will cause understeer tyre drag in long corners Rear toe-in: too little • Power on oversteer during corner exit Rear toe-in: too much • Rear feels light and unstable during corner entry. Car slides through corners rather than rolling freely Rear toe-our: any • Power oversteer during corner exit and (maybe) in a straight line • Straight line instability Front wheel caster or trail: too little • Car too sensitive (twitchy?) • Too little steering feel and feedback Front wheel caster or trail: too much • Excessive physical steering effort accompanied by too much self return action and transmittal of road shocks to the drivers hands • General lack of sensitivity to steering input due to excessive force required Front wheel caster or trail: uneven • Steering effort is harder in one direction than in the other • Car will ‘pull’ towards the side with less caster – good on ovals, bad on road courses Camber: too much negative • Inside of tyre excessively hot and/or wearing too rapidly. At the front this will show up as reduced braking capability and at the rear as reduced acceleration capability. Depending on the racetrack and the characteristics of the individual tyre, inside temperature should be 10°-25° hotter than the outside. Use a real pyrometer with a needle rather than an infra red surface temperature device. Camber: not enough negative • Outside of tyre will be hot and wearing. This should never be and is almost always caused by running static positive camber at the rear in an effort to avoid the generation of excessive negative camber under the influence of aero download at high speed. • A better solution is improved geometry and increased spring rate. Dynamic positive camber will always degrade rear tyre performance and if extreme, can cause braking instability and/or corner exit oversteer. Bump steer, front: too much toe-in in bump • Car darts over bumps and understeers on corner entry Bump steer, front: too much toe-out in bump • Car wanders under brakes and may dart over one wheel or diagonal bumps • Car may understeer after initial turn in Bump steer, rear: too much toe-in in bump (same as solid axle steer on outside wheel) • Roll understeer on corner entry • Mid phase corner understeer • ‘Tiptoe’ instability when trail braking • Darting on power application on corner exit Bump steer, rear: too much toe-out in bump (same as solid axle steer on outside wheel) • Instability on acceleration • Good turn in followed by a tendency to oversteer at mid-phase and exit TYRES Too much tyre pressure • Harsh ride, excessive wheel patter, sliding and wheel-spin • High temperature reading and wear at the centre of the tyre Too little tyre pressure • Soft and mushy response • Reduced footprint area and reduced traction • High temperatures with a dip in the centre of the tread Front tyres ‘going off’ • Gradually increasing understeer – Enter corners slower, get on power earlier with less steering lock Rear tyres ‘going off’ • Gradually increasing power on oversteer – Try to carry more speed through corner and be later and more gradual with power application LIMITED SLIP MALADIES Limited slip differential wearing out • Initial symptoms are decreased power on understeer or increased power on oversteer and inside wheel spin. The car might be easier to drive, but it will be slow • When wear becomes extreme, stability under hard acceleration from low speed will diminish and things will not be pleasant at all Excessive cam or ramp angle on coast side plate (clutch pack) limited slip differential • Corner entry, mid-phase and corner exit understeer. Incurable with geometry changes or rates – must change differential ramps. In 1998, virtually everyone is running 0/0 or 80/80 ramps. SUSPENSION GEOMETRY Excessive front scrub radius (steering offset) • Excessive steering effort accompanied by imprecise and inconsistent ‘feel’ and feedback Excessive roll centre lateral envelope: front or rear • Non-linear response and feel to steering input and lateral ‘G’ (side force) generation Rear roll centre too low (or front r/c relatively too high) • Roll axis too far out of parallel with mass centroid axis, leading to non-linear generation of lateral load transfer and chassis roll as well as the generation of excessive front jacking force. • Tendency will be towards understeer Rear roll centre too high (or front r/c relatively too low) • Opposite of above, tending towards excessive jacking at the rear and oversteer Front track width too narrow relative to rear • Car tends to ‘trip over its front feet’ during slow and medium speed corner entry, evidenced by lots of understeer (remember trying to turn your tricycle?) • Crutch is to increase front ride rate and roll resistance and increase the camber curves in the direction of more negative camber in bump (usually by raising the front roll centre)

You need a sensing cell switch behind the 2 o'clock spoke on the steering wheel. The switch should be wired to the brake lights and used 1/2 second before you apply the brakes, or in the middle of a sweeping corner, or at the same time you plant your foot to exit a corner! Alternatively, if you have a cover on the steering wheel the switch can be positioned directly under the cover at the location where the thumb on your right hand rests. PS. Do you need a rear rain light switch?

If this is an LSx then talk to Steve at Killa Kustom Kables.

I'd suggest you get a quote from "Famous", I found them much cheaper than Shannons. Also, the way it was explained to me and now I read their policy, you get the car back in case of a write-off. They're probably worth a call, as may other insurers.

Crikey... Don't you young long-haired fellas know anything about computers? Scan the original dial and import it to Word. Then just use the 'Draw Tools' to position and overlay the new text and/or images. Take it to Officeworks and have a matt finish A4 photo sheet printed ($3). Cut out the image of the dial - ask your mum to do it if you're not yet allowed to use scissors - and then attach the cut out dial to the original dial with double sided tape. I'll email you one... provided you know how to use e-mail?

Paul. I notice you're a member on the 'Z Club' forum. There are several thread on that site about Aussie Imports. You are best to ask someone your end who has been through the process. What you might find attractive is the 2+2 which is, to date, been somewhat cheaper in Oz than a 2 seater. I don't believe 2+2s were imported to the UK so you could have something quite unique.

Turned my Smiths (Jaguar) gauges into Veglia (Ferrari) just using MS Word.

David. Congratulations... I know how you feel. These milestone come more as relief than a cause for celebration Tell him he's dreamin'.

Mick, Don't tell me you're 'up North'. I dropped 2 kilos of prawns on your front doorstep on Christmas Eve.

Try this mob. https://niceproducts.com.au/?s=hose&submit=Search&post_type=product Call and see is the items are suitable for heaters. I can pick up and post for you. or, this mob http://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/products/automotive/passenger-car-and-light-truck/cooling-system/heater-hose/heater-hose-and-fuel-line-connectors

I just missed out on a Bolwell Mk 7 project last week, so I was nearly back to square one!

Sorry David. Don't know what I was thinking. I knew I'd used those but now realise it was on my windscreen washer plumbing. I bought brass fittings from EnZed for the heater hoses. Too old, too slow, too stupid.

Absolutely, and quite significantly. This last week I watched Chasing Classic Cars (Season 10, Episode 11 - American Muscle). A chap had three muscle cars, a '69 Camaro, a Barracuda and something else. They were called Resto Mods, older cars with modern componentry. The kind of work Chip Foose does on Overhaulin'. Expertly done mind you but the modifications near make me cry; 22" wheels, a blown this and that, everything chromed, etc, etc,. The owner paid around $110k for each around 10 years ago and spent $30k-$40k modifying them even further. I'm not talking really over-the-top mods but thing like reupholstering to non-original, removing door handles, etc, etc. At auction they went for $80k-$85k. It's your car, do what you want but I'd suggest nothing that isn't easily reversible.

Bunnings - Garden/Watering section. I kid you not.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13543-jeffs-240z-build/

Thanks Mick. David. I'd forgotten about the heart attack, but as the Black Knight would say, "twas but a flesh wound". The video is now on YouTube You''ll also note the singing lessons seem to be paying off!

Recently some fellow overseas GTO builders asked for a walk-around video of the car now that it's on the road and I asked on another forum if anyone could assist with this. A Clubman builder and pro-photographer, Tim Robinson, offered to help and as you will see it changed focus a bit. For years I've been trying to explain various aspects of the car to the family and yet even seeing and touching it meant very little to them. Tim's magic has finally relayed what it is all about in a medium they seem to understand. This will sound like a plug for Tim (I hope so, because that's what it's meant to be) but get in touch with him about stills or filming your car. I can't think of a better way to remember, and pass on, what your car meant to you. Important: set to FULL SCREEN and turn the VOLUME UP.

Just carefully remove the LHD one and ask a fabrication shop to make a RHD version.

Okay. The engineer wanted one installed but I wasn't sure if they required any other means of knowing they were "on", other than the two lights flashing on the dash. All fitted and working. It kind of looks like Christmas in the shed when they are "on".

Did the 3/72 240Zs have a Hazard Light Switch (HLS)? If so; Was the switch illuminated with the instrument lights, i.e. Headlights switched on? or Did the switch, or associated notification light, only illuminate when the HLS was engaged? or Did only the indicator notification (blinker) lights on the dash flash as notification the Hazard Lights were on? Thanks

I asked the same question on a couple of sites and got this handy solution. It may not suit the purist but I've already changed a few things on my S30 so I don't think this should influence it's provenance too much. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125801-repair-solution-for-bad-turn-signal-switch/ Google the part number (Dorman part #85905) to get a good idea of the item Also, I suggested in the OP that a 2 terminal switch was a later version, I now think I got that the wrong way around and it's the earlier approach. Tony. Thanks for the link. Unfortunately the contacts on mine are simply worn/sparked away rather than dirty. I really needed to either build up the contacts or get more movement of the mechanism.

To engage the o/s indicators requires and extra 'tug' on the arm of the switch. I've pulled it apart - but unfortunately didn't take photos - and it appears the contact points are worn. They are similar in appearance to distributor contact points. I'm wondering if anyone has suggestion how I could either build up the worn/pitted contacts, e.g. silver solder? or modify the mechanism to gain more movement, e.g bigger ball, stretch spring? Thanks. (edit) There are some images here of an earlier 4 contact switch but mine is a 2 contact later version. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50735-turn-signal-switch-spring-ball/

A couple of comments: I just transferred from Shannons 'laid up' to Famous comprehensive. Although the car is not, as yet, registered I am using Unregistered Vehicle Permits for shake-down drives. When they state they will pay either agreed value or market value they don't have the discretion as such, it simply means whichever option you agreed to when taking out the policy. Famous give you the written off car back if it is over 30 years old. They were much cheaper than Shannons. $650 for $70k agreed value. I sure my 'mature' age and possibly location were factors - along with my handsomeness. As far as inspecting the car goes, i was simply able to direct them to my build thread and they had no issue with the agreed value. This is something to bear in mind when creating and posting on a build thread, i.e. what would the insurance company think of this? A bit like potential employers looking at your facebook site!

I think you'll find he's been there, done that: http://www.viczcar.com/member-rides/george-miskovskis-v8-240z

Take boot, bonnet and doors off Insulation - you may need to temporarily mount the pedal box (etc?) to mark out mating surfaces not to be covered with insulation. install heater and all under-dash stuff, pedal box, vents, bonnet cable, etc., brake booster, m/c and hard lines - plus h/brake mechanism - plus clutch m/c and line. fuel tank and lines suspension brakes loom wiper assembly engine, drivetrain, exhaust finish engine bay dash interior / glass refit hinged panels have lunch