yellazed

Care to check the link? It just took me to a comments page.

Hmmmmmmmmm.... rear drums, stockie looking fronts, $40K. Wonder what mine will be worth when it's finished!

Been for sale for more than 6 months. e.g.: http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=11157 At half that price or less it might be viable. Check the interior! Nice if you like that trashed look. Shamelessly cashing in on Wangan Midnight. At A$27K? Nah. You'd spend another fortune knocking it into shape. Running without air cleaners looks cool but not conducive to engine longevity. There's even a 2 litre jobby. More reasonably priced, but its a 260 2+2 for close to $16K! Not even a 240*.: http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=11156 Early Zeds are worth more in Japan than here. There are less available. You'd be well advised to shop locally - my 0.02c. Edit: *interior even more trashed!

And a bit closer to home: http://users.tpg.com.au/tpot/PM_RSW_UTF8_V1_0.htm They can also do 17s in 2-piece with various offsets.

jackson 280ZX: Sorry, had a message back from the vendor saying he doesn't have the pattern. It's not too hard to make your own, though. Just take some paper (even a large sheet of newspaper), push it into the footwell, flatten it out and trace around the edges. I did this when I cut up a rear carpet to make some temp ones for my Z32. If you can't manage that, there must be a wrecker out there with even a tatty pair you get and give to a motor trimmer to duplicate.

It's not necessarily the spacer that's the problem. It all depends on what final offset you end up with. If you use a 20mm spacer on a +20 wheel, you end up with a nett 0, or little difference in load because the track (centre line of your wheel) remains unaltered. If you use a 20mm spacer on a 0 offset wheel, you push your track width out 20mm, increasing load on bearings, axles, etc. Some use bolt on spacers to compensate for limited offset choice in the desired wheels, or to want to have less 'dish' on wide wheels or to prevent the inside of the tyre rubbing on uprights/springs. You can even buy bolt-ons to convert from 4 stud to 5 stud. I have them on one of my cars and so far have had no excessive bearing wear or undesirable side effects, but it really depends on how aggressive the combination is and what your final offset is. Wide rims and negative offsets will cause increased loads, even without spacers. I have 9.5" rims, but only increased the track marginally because the final offset means extra rim width is distributed both inwards and outwards. Does that make any sense?

I just bought a set off the 'Bay for my 200ZR (Z31) 2 front mats $60 plus postage. They are shaped to fit the footwells properly, not just a generic one-size-fits-all These are for a 300ZX 2+2, but you get the idea: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180273632861&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008 I've sent them a message asking about 280Z mats for you.

I have a 260Z. I bought a late 260Z OEM in-dash system which is a fully self-contained vacuum operated unit with fan motor, etc, replacing the normal heater box/fan/controls unit. It only has the hoses to go through the firewall and a vacuum line. No cables and under bonnet bits (apart from drier, hoses, compressor, etc, etc). Everything bolts up stock and the controls sit in the correct place - requires no mods at all. The dash centre panel is a little different from the 240Z, but maybe you could look for a 2nd hand 260Z system and alter a little to suit the 240 dash?

Mick: Access Online do the DTM Z7 which is a very similar look. Pic enclosed. Bronze or silver. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DTM-Wheels-for-S13-S14-S15-R32-R33-R34-200SX-Lancer-EVO_W0QQitemZ280250701743QQihZ018QQcategoryZ42614QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting Approx $1100 a set delivered. I recently bought a set of 18" DTM Rush and very happy with them and the service. The 5-stud pattern could be overcome by using adapters to convert from 4-stud to 5-stud, eg: http://www.ezaccessory.com/Wheel_Adapter_4_Lug_4_5_To_5_Lug_4_5_p/4450-5450.htm They are a 2" spacer which would push your wheel out 50mm, so a +35 or so offset will give you a similar look to using a -10 on a stock flange. Worth considering, as it opens up your wheel choice dramatically. You could have a wider rim than 7" also. I'm running 20mm bolt on 5-stud spacers on my 200ZR with no probs. Much safer than long wheel studs and simple spacers. Edit: Access Online advise that they will have 4-stud DTMs in a couple of months.

Just curious - why didn't you weld the headers direct to the flange, without the little stubs? Would give better flows and hug the block more.

Thanks, NZeder, but the pics are what has caused all this confusion. The first pic you posted is rather misleading. On closer examination I believe both wheels are RB-Rs, as they both have the thick mounting flange you say belongs to RB-Rs (although the one on the right appears thinner bacause it has about 10mm of it painted black) The wheel on the right, which you say is the RB-R, clearly has a different offset, diameter and rim width to the other one. If I had to guess, I'd say one is a 16x8 and the other 17x9.5. The different offsets would account for the fact that the flange on the narrow rim is further off the floor that the wider rim, so must have more positive offset. The difference in spoke shape must therefore come from the offsets and wheel diameter. More positive offset pushing the mounting flange out - more curve in the spoke. Lower offset number: flange further in - flatter, or more angled spoke. Plus, larger diameter: longer, flatter spoke. Agreed. Let's wait.

Dunno, but the guy says they are RB-Rs and to me they look like the banana spokes you said were the RBs. Maybe it is all in the offset, changing the spoke shape not the thickness of the mounting flange. Even on this website I am darned if I can see much difference between RBs and RB-Rs. http://www.rotawheel.com/rb1.htm I would like to see pics of the actual wheels on offer before making a final decision.

Confusion reigns again. I have been watching the threads on Hybridz where I now find pics of both style wheels claimed be alternately RBs and then RB-Rs. BenZed: can you clarify please, as I def want the flatter spoke shape, whichever they turn out to be. If the RBs are the bananas I'd prefer the RB-Rs (That's rich coming from a Queenslander!) Sorry if this causes any grief.

The difference between RBs and RB-Rs is in the curve of the spokes. The RBs have a flatter shape, the RB-Rs a pronounced banana shape: RB-R on the left, RB on the right Personally, I prefer the RB.

I'm keen. I'll need 17s once I fit the Wilwoods : 305mm rotors so these should do the trick. Put me down for a staggered set of 17x8.5 and 17x9.5 Also, do you have a pic of the 'steel grey' finish e.g. is it like the wheels in Toecutter's post, or is it lighter? Cheers.

Probably best to phone or e-mail Paul, as he doesn't seem to visit the Forum as regularly as the rest of us.

They're only 14s and skinny. Why, for US$800 plus I'd sell a set of 16 x8s, 8.5s I have lying around!

I like it! I have the G-nose, but am ambivalent about it. It was on the car, so I have left it, but may lose it one day. However, I do think the squat stance from the extra wide flares and wheels nicely balance the extra overhang of the G-nose. I may have to find some wider flares, now. Love the wheels, too. Want some, but can't find wide Panasports and the widest Wats I'm offered are only 9.5s. Black? Beautiful. Looks mean and classy at the same time. Then again, I have a squat black Z32, so I'm biased.

I was directed to him by Watanabe in Japan, so I assume he's legit. I have had a few e-mails to and fro and he seems very helpful. I haven't bought yet as I'm still agonising over whether to go for the 16s or 17s. I'll go for the 16s if I can fit ém over the calipers, 'cos the 17s are a bit narrower, don't have neg offsets, so less dish and more likely to clash with suspension. I want to mount the Wilwoods to check clearances with my current skinny (16x8.5) Wats before making the final decision. Cheers.........

Thanks, aegean - even better. Gotta wonder about a web site with spelling errors, tho. Cheers, WF

Mossy: I need to remove paint from trim strips too, so please be sure to post your progress with pics, etc. Should be the basis for a sticky tech article. Aegean: what a great find, thanks. I'll try them out with my tail light surrounds.

For info: The Aussie connection for Wats is Miki Yokohata (tpot@tpg.com.au). For a new set of 4 (16 x 8.5 and 16 x 9.5s) he quoted me $2400. Might be worth contacting him. Cheers.

Looks very nice, but may not end up being a cheap import to Oz, because of freight, duty and GST. It may be coming from NZ, but is of Japanese origin, so the usual 15% (last time I looked) duty applies, as does GST (even on the freight). The exchange rate is in our favour atm, but whatever it fetches in NZ dollars add a grand or so and it will be about the Aussie dollar price, landed. Even so, could still be a good buy for someone.

My 2c: If you go to those wattages you might need to go through relays to prevent fried wiring.