Zedback

None of it is a waste of time because if you're not doing it now you'll be doing it later anyway! I'm with Zeddophile in thinking it's running too rich. I would start with checking out the coolant temp and air temp sensors, and cleaning the contacts as well as possible. How old/crappy is the air filter? Best of luck!

There is a whole series of checks to run listed in the FSM which are tedious but necessary to step through. They cover all the sensors and wiring, some are performed directly on the component, many from the ECU plug, you just need an ohm meter. There is also a mesh filter on the pickup inside the tank which can get gummed up resulting in poor fuel flow.

That's what I would be doing, I'm no panel beater and I really hate paying others to screw up what I can screw up perfectly well myself! So go for it. I'd be looking at the rust repairs in all the different project threads to see how sections are first cut out and then, as you say, stitched back together. Worst case is you are still looking for a donor corner. Alternatively, do what had been done to my old MGB, (yes, I LIKE MGBs ) belt it back into rough shape with a BFH and shape it in bog. All front and rear quarters, boot and bonnet of my poor MGB had been repaired in such a fashion, was impossible to tell without a magnet or until you attempt a bare metal respray

Sadly I drove around and around without finding any of you. I'm not having much luck with these Wednesday nights. :-\ However, on the plus side it means I did get to try out my new toy. Galderdi says I've turned to the darkside. I think I'm more in need of "Zs Anonymous" - "hi, my name is Mike, I bought my last Z this afternoon, I now have 4 Z's... but only 2 of them work"

Someone "google map" it please. If I get my surprise tomorrow I'll try and be there...

From qld transport WOVR info: So I hope he gets it out and gets it dry. Might have to keep an eye out in the auctions too...

Beside you a z might start to look as small as a 120Y

Plumbers apprentice saw the yellow 280zx in the carport and asked "is that a porsche"

Shane, I looked into sequential ignition when I did my Megasquirt on the 280zx. Everything I read suggested there was no real world advantage, despite the theoretical advantage. If I remember, mine batch fire twice per cycle, can be more if the injectors can cycle quickly enough. I did setup ignition control using the stock electronic dizzy (which is shaft driven off the oil pump). Just feed the red/green sensor wire signal to the MS instead of the igniter pack. You don't have to do toothed crank wheels if you don't want to with MS. Cheers, Mike

Nice work thanks for sharing Does anyone know if new replacement door skins come with the reinforcing piece along the top edge or does this need to be saved from the donor?

Yeah, me too. That's why it's so good to see photos where you can tell how someone else has approached the problem. Keep 'em coming!

Love that fabrication! Keep up the detailed pics, especially on repairs like around he fuel filler

Not boring! More rust, more welding, where's that door skin walk through? More intricate Z nerd detail please. This is the closest thing to satisfaction I'm getting since going back to work.

Wish I could make it but weekends would be a struggle at the moment let alone weeknights. Have fun! Mike

No, no, we wouldn't want to threaten the status of ride on law mower! (14.5hp) So tiny that 8hp will get it up to 40-45mph! You really would NOT want to go any faster It only gets taken out a handful of times in a year but we'll never get rid of it. There is something indefinable about a car that is so simple and basic you can see how all the parts work and fit together, yet is still essentially the same in function, form and componentry as any sophisticated modern car.

You can take my 280zx for 2.5k without the current engine/gearbox (I'll throw in an engine in unknown condition), or take the lot for $4.5k. See details here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3722.0.html, lots of work done to it and very, very little needed for roadworthy Cheers, Mike

Somebody give that man a cigar! The brakes on the little old Morris 8 (who's year you may decipher from the number plate) are single circuit 4 wheel hydraulic drum brakes. Very advanced for the time, they replaced the high maintenance cable actuated drums of earlier models and contemporary competition. The ones on this car are currently seized due to corrosion. Mind you to call these "brakes" is generous, they are more "deceleration assistance devices" which are mostly adequate for the whole 8hp that gives the "8' it's name.

The main ones I use are 9 inch diameter and fit a low speed polisher (800-1200rpm), don't know what brand, I picked them up from an automotive paint supply shop. I also use the smaller ones that fit a drill, you can pick them up at hardware or supercheap, but keep the drill speed down. The 3"- 4' ones you can get from supercheap to fit a grinder don't last long unless you are very careful to stay away from any edges or ridges. I think the grinder spins too fast and that's why it chews them up so quick. No progress on the Z for the last 2 weeks, started back at work on a new project which is sucking every last bit of energy I've got. What little I have has gone into the seized brakes of this little gem...

Hey that looked familiar, especially the 'woops'! Very nice work, I'm going to have to do a rottisserie for the '71. I think I can get away without for this one.

Wanted to be there guys, even checked the fluids and pumped up the tyres, but... it's 5:40 and I'm still stuck at home with the kids so no go for me

Take some photos and post them up so we can see how bad it is

Where do you get them from? Is there any advantage over stock Nissan mounts? That I can believe! Did you fabricate your own patches/panels or source them from somewhere?

Have you got any photo's of creating the rear end? I might end up needing to do something similar to my '71.

yeah, that does suck. I think what you describe happens when the shift rod doesn't slot properly into it's hole in the front cover and gets jammed instead. Nothing to do but take it all apart again

The driverside dogleg as I found out is swiss cheese. Does anyone know if there are repair sections available? I didn't menton earlier, this is where I am sourcing my patch panels, a bent 280zx guard. It's been more useful than I first though because I have beem able to reuse profiles and folds that suit. Here is the donor section for the dogleg The fold on the rear edge is modified from the guard. The lower profile is shaped by gently bending with pliers. The trick is to use the nose of the pliers to carefully form the crease. Don't bend more than 30 degrees at a time. Work along and back a few times until you get the right angle. The wider fold was formed the same way but using the deeper grip of my favourite tool using exactly the same technique Tidy up both folds with a hammer and dolly. Trial fit Lower profile not right, have another go Had a brainwave! Reuse the top profile of the old dogleg Double check it still fits Put new section on as well and mark out where they meet Add about an 8mm overlap, cut to shape and form a lip. Same technique as above but take even more time and care. You want to form the lip fold first and then bend the overlap back to parallel Should end up looking like this Clamp the two parts together Start tacking them together Not too bad I think Can't weld the new dogleg in yet, more holes to patch Judicious use of a hammer to shape... Easy Until next time...