oldmates260z

Anyone know the differences? The gear change on my original 74 260Z is not great however when my son had his 280ZX it seemed a nicer change. Is a 280 box a better option?

Agree it would be a great idea, however the local state Z clubs might get their noses out of joint. I am based in Brisbane, however regretfully would not have the time or talent to organise a cruise (Working 7 days a week, 5 in Sydney). There are not enough cruises, however would you get enough people out on the run?

Not sure you could buy one new or reconditioned. I paid $150 for a whole system taken out of a wreck from a guy up here in Brisbane. It came with everything but I could not use it all due to the condition of the parts. (I am in the AC game a did source the other bits without too much trouble.) You could try him, he has a couple of sheds of parts email or phone zbitz@westnet.com.au or 0754645056 Things to watch: - fit new TX valve, receiver drier and hoses. Not worth reusing unless you are sure they are OK - fit a deice thermostat, the later factory AC came with one - the orginal compressors are expensive to repair. If you get a good one it should be OK otherwise you can get a aftermaket bracket and fit a standard automotive Sanden compressor - you loose the time mark with the factory compressor bracket - you may need either a cowl around teh radiator fan or a electric fan to boost the air though the radiator if it overheats Hope that helps

There is a "orange" 240Z on Carpoint, sounds like its original paint. http://www.carpoint.com.au/used-car/DATSUN/240Z/New%20South%20Wales/csn5102755.aspx

Interesting to hear that the 260 AC fitted into the 240, was it a steel or plastic box? Wow, did not realise how much different the centre of a 240 dash is to the 260. The evporators in the 260Z are separate too, however with the later AC units you have to change the heater as well as it operates on vacuum control and a mirco switch is in the vent selector. My 260Z has the same AC switching problem. The air only goes through the evap coil when the air comes out the centre vents so I have to be sure to switch the AC off when the air is directed to the floor and through the heater coil Below is a photo of the later model evap unit, did not have one of the one I used

I have just put in a "integrated" system into a 74 260Z, not sure if its the same as what you would have under the dash of a 240Z?? As it is an early 260 so it may be close. The evaporator is fitted directly behind the vents in the centre of the dash What it looks like was done in Australia, very common in the 1970's, was that a aftermaket box was made up (in sheetmetal) and locally sourced parts put into them as not many cars came with factory fitted AC. I would guess this would suit a 240Z if they have the same heater box as the 260Z. If you get a AC evaporator (what goes under the dash) from a 75 model and beyond it will be a plastic box and you would have to replace the heater box and all the dash controls as they run on a vacuum system, not cable. Maybe taht is what Matt D has??

Picked this link up from one of the other Z sites http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Z-car There is some good info, I liked this one: The Z-car went on hiatus from 1996 to 2002, as Nissan was not only focusing on SUVs but was also in financial trouble. Many people believed that Nissan would not live to see the new millennium, and that the Z-car would die with it. To keep Z-car interest alive, the company launched a restoration program in 1998 where they purchased original 240Zs, professionally restored them, and sold them at dealerships for $24,000. Furthermore, Nissan launched a concept car at the 1999 North American International Auto Show, the 240Z Concept. Clearly a throwback to the original, it was a bright orange two-seater with classic swept-back styling . In addition, it was fully functioning, with the 2.4 liter 4-cylinder KA24DE engine from the Nissan Altima featuring 200 bhp (150 kW) and 180 ft·lbf (244 N·m) of torque. The designers used an original 240Z to provide inspiration and the concept was created from drawing to running vehicle in only 12 weeks. See Concept 240Z below, looks better than the 350Z to me....

Ourdatto I am Brisbane based, if you want someone to look at it

I have watched the prices nationally in the private maket for about 18 months and you get a very good every day driver for about $5-6.5k (I bought 2). It seems to get a showroom condition one, they are asking $12-15k for a "original spec car". However they do seem to be for sale for quite a while. There is a blue ground up rebuilt one on carsales.com.au for $10k but that has been there for 18 months. The nicest looking one on the market at the moment is one on tradingpost.com.au in NSW, but $13k neg

If you look in this forum under Wheels and Tyres there is some good info. Also a great link for different tyre sizes is: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Would be interested in the prices you get for the Superlites

Bought my Zed in Albury and drove it back to Brisbane via Sydney. In the Sydney leg had exactly the same problem and noted that it was pinging a bit as well under load. Reset the timing by eye and drove it to Brisbane and did not miss a beat! Bought new points, dist cap, rotor, timing light and have used none of them and its still going well. Wish I had the time to work on it, too much fun driving it!

Well worth a look http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2007/10/micro_camera_shows_the_working.html

Hi as well. I saw a Blue 2+2 for sale on the OZDAT site, looked like a riper. It was in South Australia and the ad said the owner had passed away. Is that the one? Was almost tempted to go down and have a look at it. Post some shots Cheers

Yes, I have the round tops off a 240Z. They are good, but the car is still a pig until you have done about 20ks.

I am running a set of SU's on a stock standrad 260Z 2+2 but find them a pig when it is cold and very touchy down low. I am getting better than 10l/100klm so economy is great. I am looking at options to get something a bit less trouble to tune. I had a 1600 that I swapped twin twins SU's for a standard Datsun carby and it went a heap better. Has anyone run a 240K carbie or maybe a down draft Weber or twin (not triple) side draft Webers?

If you are still after an original 240Z there is one on the Qld Zed site, you can get the link from the home page or see below http://www.zcarclubq.org.au/

Thanks guys. I have bought a while ago points, coil, dist cap, rotor button to get everything new again. But have yet to put them in. When we bought my sons 260 we can down Mt Tamborine in mine, trailing throttle all the way I fouled No 6 plug and put in a new set then. Also she uses a bit of oil. I was hoping it was one bad plug as it has not fouled again. I think a new set of leads are in order as well. What is your experience with burning oil when trailing off then accelerating. I thought that used to be valve guides, but seems to me to be more like rings. Thanks again guys, input is great

I have a set of 240Z SU?s on a 260Z and from a standing start is often misses or hesitates to get of the mark, which can be a bit of a worry crossing a 4 lane highway. :shock: It is better once it has warmed up plus if the choke is out. Also it will take a big miss and backfire on hard acceleration at about 1500rpm when it?s cold. I am guessing that it is mixture, but how do you best set that? Any other hints?

Thanks Lynton. From what it looks like and what I know of the early history of fitting AC in Australia I am guessing that the system fitted before the factory system you have in your car was by after market companies. I work for one that now supplies AC to Ford and Holden. They were very agricultural and used commonly available parts in the Australian market which suits me now as I can still buy the parts off the shelf. I got the evaporator and controls from the same car and thought it would have a position for Ac, but its control panel was the same as mine without AC. They must just have had a separate switch, and so do I now! You are right, the air either goes through the AC coil to your face or through the heater to the floor and demist. I will just have to remember when the AC is on; the air must go to my face. Cheers Tim

My 260Z 2+2 is fairly original, I will email you some photos Tim

Matt I am in the process of fitting factory Ac to an early 260Z 2+2 and can help a bit as I am in the AC game. I go hold of an original system with the factory mount and compressor. The mount is a work of art and the compressor is as big as most 4 cyl engines and it uses metric hose fittings. All got too hard so now I am chasing the after market bracket (~$150) and getting a std Sanden automotive compressor (~$350). If you have a have an after market system it will use a Sanden compressor. You can buy them from places like Heatcraft or Melbourne Auto Air. Send me some photos and I may be able to identify the parts for you. R134a is the only gas to use now. Most seals and hoses if they do not leak now, will not leak with R134a. You will need to change the oil and make sure the hoses and coils are flushed out (Shell-lite is the stuff to use) You may be better off seeing if you can fit the early 260Z evaporator box, its all behind the dash and looks much nicer Cheers and good luck Tim

I have found that upto about 1975 they ran a TX valve system with a fin and tube coil, in a mild steel box. After that they have a automotive aluminium coil, orifice, all in a plastic box. You have to change out the whole assembly to make it work plus get a vacuum line it...all too hard! I am fitting an early one now but am wondering where the receiver drier goes on the factory system plus how you switch the AC on and off? There is no control for the AC, was there a rocker switch somewhere? Does anyone have any shots of one fitted? Also where does the timing mark move to?

I just went to fit up the AC compressor on a 260Z to find you have to remove the bracket that gives you the timing marks to line up with the harmonic balancer. Does anyone know where the mark is on engines fitted with AC. I assume the 280ZX guys will be teh ones that will know this one. A couple of photos would be great. Thanks

Old topic, but I am interested in what you guys are putting on. I have one Zed with the original mirrors but you cannot see anything out the passanger side. Surely there are some after market ones around that are magnified that are better. Found these ones on the US ebay, they look good. The brand seems to be TANAX. Has anyone seen these around?

Dave Thanks for that, a couple of questions: - swapping the bell-housing, was that one off one on? - was the box length, mount points and rear spline all OK? - Did you have to modify anything on the body of the car, bolt holes etc. I am trying to keep mine as original as possible, but would love a nice box. The older boxes just have a poor shift "feel" Cheers Tim