nat0_240_chevZ

just put your premo unlead'd in if you really care, otherwise just run 91 reg. I fyou having some trouble with detonation use the premo, (mostly noticable on hot days. as for additives, if your after a higher octane just dissolve mothballs in 2l of petrol and chuck in your tank!!! (old tale the old, old guys talk about, works too appearantly!!!) To be really sure what you should be running we need some specs stats of your engine, ignition, head, compression ratio, and cylinder pressures, also a realistic opinion about what your engine is doing when you load her up at slow speeds. nato

have a look at the angle of the pushrod if it looks like its cocked up then try that 2nd hole down lower on the pedal. the larger spring should attache to the upper hole and a small pressed hook above the pedal assy. the spring is not there to release the clutch but to bring the pedal back that bit furthar to allow the clutch master cylinder to top up with fluid from the resevoir. the stop adjustment is to set the starting position of the pedal ie in line with the brake pedal + a few mm check the manual as it is correct. otherwise try bleeding the clutch hydraulic circuit. ALSO the adjuster should be part of the pushrod closet to the 'fork' for the clevis pin closest to your pedal. should be a 12mm locknut i thing then you spin the pushrod with your fingers. Note the pedal pos'n in respect to your brake pedal, and also the owners manual. (i found a lil but closer than the brake by say 10mm give sufficient travel for a h/d clutch) my experience is with the 240z/260z's but your pics almost identifies them as being an identical setup. nato

yea firewalls are diff. -battery trays and recess in the pressing for the battery are opposed sides, but you could leave it as it is. -the other firewall detail is pretty much interchangeable. most -acc pedal mount setc would need att but brake & clutch should be an easy swap. -how bout just buying a rhd from aus or europe? as the body # would give it away HLS not HS30 -interior would probly be interesting with the wiring i mean but if you got a rhd dash it should pan out ok im not sure which side the loom enters through the firewall on a US Lhd nato

heres my wheels. simm's 16x9 rears and 16x7's on the front. the front tire profile is a lil small and the rear a lil big but wait till i waste them and grab some better fitting tyres.... the rears poke out a smidge but i have about 5mm i can off the inner of the wheel and get a tyre without rim protectors and drop dow to a 225 or 235 sould be good. rear backspace is about 130mm and front is about 115mm also the rear drums are off gives me another 6mm, as i will be going rear discs when i drop the lsd and cv's in!!! very soon hopefully next week!!! yaaa nato

dont bother, just go and buy a 2+2!!!! why u would want to im not sure. just get the chev purring, and be happy. (caus i am now mine runs properly) nato

yea you can get them to fit but are not a bolt on as they are. you are allowed to use spacers (go for a 25mm thick), but must be of the bolt on type ie. bolt the spacer to your hub then bolt the wheel to the spacer. Transport authority and engineers dont recommend them but the bolt on type are legal!!! provided you dont alter the track more than i think 1380 in the front and 1273 on the rear (just off the top of my head from my last visit to the approval engineer) Slip on over the existing studs/hub spacers are NOT legal as they put more bending stress on the studs which they were not designed for. i would recommend the 25mm thick to push some of the width gain towards your struts by only 10mm which will be fine. any more q's just post cheers nato

Hi, between me and a couple of friends and some other zed fans i know here in SA. we have hs30#'s -236 really modified but a genuine build, hatch vents, early wiring harnes plugs -224 (an old lady up in the riverland very original except for the sunfoof, but rusty, havent looked too closely to tell you differences) -636 has std fender mirrors (proved as no holes in doors and are the factory telescopic type, weird huh, but has z pillar badges vented.) -212 was just on ebay, a matching number car heres the link. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=003&item=130023283911&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 -my car im sure is below #1500 but for the life of me cant remember what 12** something, ill edit my post later once i have a look. ill look into the finer details to help with the time line. nato

yep easy to do! gauges are alomost a direct swap for the 260z, but 240z a diff story. the voltmeter is std on a few 260's ive seen with a warning light in the gauge. i have a chev in my 240z, using 260z wiring in the engine bay as i could not find suitable 240z engine harnes with the right connectors (early model loom) so i just used a 2+2 engine loom and made a go between loom for the 240z <==> 260z looms, took a while and there are differences in the way certain things are wired ie windscreen washer/jets motor and the voltage regulator. if you want to clean up the loom remove all the ignition and unused foglamp wires, aswell as the transistor for the ignition and run the ign wire through the tacho like the 240z does so you still have a tacho, just needs calibrating to read correct revs for the v8. nato

pete, good move. ive got some pics posted on thezgarage of my s/block, i didnt install but i have a very good idea what was done. -283cu with 4bbl holley, th350 auto. home made eng mounts (looks like but work) large block of rubber with 2 bolts through it tailshaft mod (i think, but i cant tell where, i thnk it has just had the th350 yoke put on a zed shaft and thats it but like i said not 100%) the throttle cable was just a small trick converting linkage to cable, just used the firewall linkage with a bit of shaft that is clamped to the cable inner and the cable sheath is perched on the firewall also on a separate 90deg bracket i made. speedo cable looks stock! (believe it or not)maybe a new screw cup on trans side. original Zed trans shifter linkage attaches to the th350 small bend in the flat bar to clear the tunnel. i would recommend suspending the v8 in the enginebay with trans and try it as far back as possible. chock it in a good place(from beneath with jack and a block of wood), check bonnet clearance, tunnel clearance and engine mount locations/diff (mines sits the chev mounts on the bog stock perches for the 240z) any more info just ask, i have some pics if you would like them posted.. nato