sexual_sushi

I purchased this gear to convert my 260z to a fuel injection and turbo setup. No longer needed as I have purchased a set of triple webers and have decided to go N/A. This lot should include most parts needed to convert that N/A engine to Fuel Injection for better performance and possibly fuel economy. You get everything pictured: Exhaust Manifold Inlet Manifold With Injectors ECU Wiring Harness Fuel Rail Looks to be in good used condition. I haven't personally tried the setup but it was bought assuming it was in working/useable condition. This is what was advertised when i originally purchased them: " Fuel injection system for L6 engine. NAPS quality system fitted to 2.8L engine. Includes exhaust manifold, inlet with injectors, computer, wiring, fuel rail etc... A cheap way to get the best performance from your L6 engine." This has been stored in my shed and unused since I purchased it middle 2005 Price: $300 + postage Model: Should fit any 6 cylinder L series engine Location: The gear is located in Gladstone (central queensland) however if you are willing to wait it could possible be brought to Brisbane sometime in the near future. Contact Details: Reply, PM or email shaun@shaun-maluga.com

hi all, I have a 74 260z, for the last year or 2 the ignition switch has been a lil faulty, if i turned the key right as far as it goes it wouldnt start, i would have to hold it half way after the spring return bit to kick it over. BUT now there is a new problem... when the key is in the off position, there is still power (ie the electric fan will kick in, reverse lights come on etc). when you turn it to the off position u can here the solenoid kcik in for half a second but not enought to start the car, but if i quickly turn the key from on to off the car will keep on running. if it is on the next click up from off, the fan and reverse lights etc will turn off. problem with this is u cant take the key out in this position. so i did the obvious, tried a different ignition swtich (just the actual switch itself, the back part of the switch) and it still did the same thing so i figure it is unlikely that both switches have the same problem. so wat do you think i should try next? wanted to get some advice as it gets dark here quite quickly now and I dont have alot of time after work to fiddle around. i was thinking maybe it is an exposed wire? anyother ideas on what i can check?

hi there, i'll take em i am currently in Hong Kong for work so it might be easier to do this just by email. If you want to get a quote for shipping to brisbane (ill pm you the address) and tell me the total and your bank details Cheers

hey there, i posted this a while back, http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,1877.0.html i went to have a look at it in brisbane, i was very close to purchasing this to replace the rusty body in my 74 z, the only reason I didn't is that I didn't have the money lying around at the time. Needs only a few pieces here and there like a windshield glass i think? had a heap of parts sitting in it and it started up fine. the guys says it is rust free, i asked him and he said it was all cut out and patches welded in, not bogged up. It was advertised at $4000 to start with, then $3500 then when I went he was asking $2500 and he might even be negotiable. Rusty parts cars come up regulay and are usually cheap however rust free ones don't come up that often. i think if you negotiate you might be able to get this landed in sydney for $3000-$3500 all that said it might not be for sale anymore :S

just for everyones reference 1 year ago it was $700 or $800 to get a car shipped from melbourne to brisbane. $1200 for a covered transport. nice and cheap, i would jump all over this if i didnt have enough cars and enough trouble trying to accumulate the funds to work on them

that does look very nice... as for your nickel plating needs one of the members of the qld z car club gave us a diy demonstration on how to coat your parts. there is a bit of setup but if you are doing alot of things its really worth it. if you dont/cant do it yourself he has been doing a few parts here and there and puts them on ebay. im sure if you send him the parts he will do it for a fraction of the cost of sending them to an actual busniess. go to the contact section of the qld site http://www.zcarclubq.org.au/ and email the secretary Greg. The most important info i gathered from the demonstration was that like any automtive work preperation is the key! The finish really depends on how well the parts have been cleaned before coating

paid $1500 for 2 260z's. have since spent around another $10000 and it is still a gray shell in the shed. in the meantime bought another 260z for $1500 and spent around $4000 on it over the last 2 years. it is a daily driver, interior is nice (when its clean) and the engine runs smooth but the body is full of rust. then spent just over $23000 on my 240z. so in conclusion i have spent around $30000 (from what i could be bothered to count) and i have a really nice 240z, a reliable but leaky and rusty daily driver 260z, a gray shell in the shed (rust free ) with alot of new parts and a parts car out in the yard TO GO... about $10000 for the engine in the 240z about $15000 on paint, engine, interior and other bits and pieces for the gray shell and i wonder why i can't afford to eat :S

thanks for all the suggestions guys! supercheap might sound like the easier option and i guess it should only be a couple of bucks. we (by we i mean mainly my dad) have pulled the gearbox and done the clutch a few times and have never really needed one, thought it might make the process a lil easier though. Thanks for the offer rod f but im guessing your in melbourne? I'm in brisbane atm heading to gladstone where ill be doin the clutch. I think i even have a few gearboxes lying around up there anyway

hi all, just wondering if anyone knows where to get a clutch alignment tool for the 240z in aus? Just changing the clutch at christmas so I kinda need it by then. If not i suppose we can just knock one up on the lathe

Hi all, just wondering what 2+2's are going for these days in failry good condition. If you have sold one in the last year or so could you post how much for and maybe a picture if you have it? From what I can gather here's what I have: needs restoration $500-2000 driveable but needs work $2000-4000 daily driver condition $4000-7000 good condition $7000-12000 show condition $12000+ more interested in the good condition side of things, I have seen them for sale for around 10 and a few for 12 but I was just wondering if they have actually sold at this price? thanks in advance

yeah we had it over a pit about a year ago and checked the usual culprits for a rear end clunk. i thought it was gonna be the diff mounts but everything was solid and tight. The unis seemed fine and we narrowed it down to the actaul yoke (from what we remember). I'm gonna do another test just to make sure but I might just order new unis anyway. Cheers for the heads up, i knew the earlier ones were different but wasn't sure what the difference was. So I'm guessing I will need the later option as i have a 1973 240.

Hi all, I'm chasing a tailshaft for a 73 240z in good condition. I'm replacing my current one that has some play in the yoke which is causing a clunk in the rear end. Let me know Cheers Shaun

Hi all! It is my dads 50th birthday in February next year and I am trying to chase down a car he used to own and love. I have attached pictures that were taken in 1976. It was a 1954 Ford customline and the last I have heard it was sold to a guy in Melbourne around 1979. I have only just begun tracking this down so at the moment my information is very limited but here is what I have so far… 1954 Ford Customline Restored in 1975 in Gladstone Central Queensland. Registered with plates OTK 555 My Dad sold it around 1979 for $500 to get married. The buyer then almost immediately sold the car in Melbourne for $2500 I believe. Painted Candy Apple Red White interior I believe it was converted to 12volt and had falcon (maybe?) brakes put on. The wiring harness was from another make and the car had aftermarket rims (pictured) I was just wondering if anyone may have seen or known someone with this car? Obviously many things may have happened to it since 1979 but I’m hoping it’s still in recognisable and restorable condition. If anyone has any information or are part of any clubs that could put the word out that would be great. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Shaun shaun@shaun-maluga.com

ive always wanted to reverse the doors so they open backwards rather than fowards. thought it would look cool with the bonnet opening up the way it does

mine had/has the same problem. ordered new synchros from black dragon in amercia but when they came they were the wrong sort, they needed to be scintered metal but they weren't. Ended up using 2 or 3 boxes to make 1 good one but it still crunchs a bit in 2nd. Just for availibilty of parts i would consider the s13 5 speed coversion. also for anyone rebuilding... the lock nut on the end of the shaft that holds alll the gears on is a one use item so it is worth buying a new one (about$12-15) when putting it all back together. The shop rebuilding my box kept using teh same nut and within a month it would undo and i would lose 5th and reverse etc...

with the 2+2's Australia got the majority of them becuase they were marketing the cars at "housewives" so they can take the kids shopping etc. stupid idea and bad for us now as everything for sale is a 2+2 and parts for 2+2 are expensive and harder to get cause they are less common in amercia. i suppose it is possible that australia got 2+2's in 74 and america only got the 2 seaters but then again maybe the website is just wrong. i am 99% certain that the datsun badge you have is not original for that year model. i thought they were all like the one i posted a pic of until the 280zx. my 74 2+2 has an even different badge again but im sure somone stole that off another model. bit hard to tell but if your badge looks like this one... http://www.flickr.com/photos/7383734@N07/1115891975/ it is from a z31.

oh also the first gen 240z has a differnt 1/4 panel emblem. I believe it has a similar ring around the outside but it actually says "240z" across the middle rather than just the "z"

the bottom picture you have is the standard 1/4 panel/roof emblems from the 2 seater models. The top picture is the standard emblem for for the 2+2 models. THe 2+2 ones are BIGGER. I have put the smaller 2 seater emblem over the hole for the 2+2's and they are will probably just fit to cover up the hole but you will have to change the mounting pins/holes for them. I just sold a pair of new 240 emblems on ebay for around $60 for each side. The 2+2 ones u can buy from the states new but they are very expensive and to me the red insert still looks old and faded and cracked but thats just the way they are. Also new 2+2 1/4panel emblems usually go for $150 plus. The hood emblem should be the same from the 240z through to the 260z (and 280z in amercia). I believe the 280zx emblem is different. The stock hood emblem for the early z cars looks like this... i am going to list a new hood emblem on ebay probably on the weekend (unless perhaps you wish to make an offer?)

Hi all, emailed the distributor for energy suspenion compenents in australia and good news! As of the middle of October they will be stokcing kits for the z's. Good prices too. https://pontiworld.com.au/energysusp/index.php?cPath=55&osCsid=6b6ec605e07d0650f2e040e92785bc93 i'll be getting a few kits when i can afford it

haha come on i still need a turbo z, chev z, stock z, wide body z, scarab z and then a Z for every colour of the rainbow

i have 4 zeds and im always in the market for another one haha. can't wait to see pics. well done on the find

i thought they'd be pretty easy to pick up eslewhere... they usually go for $150 on ebay when listed for the 240z. I just purchased a set from nicedat for $100. I think that's a fair price, not a bargain but not absurd either. But yeah i reckon you could get lucky at a wreckers for $50. sco_aus: have you heard anything about the 2+2 booster? ive heard it is suitable for the conversion. And luckily the 2+2's are in abundance here so looks like ill be raiding my parts car soon

thanks for the write up where do we find the pics? the diy dash work i was refering to is here if anyone is interested http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23919

is that the one that is painted with an upholstery type paint? there is a pretty good write up on it at hybridz.org i think. has how to do it and the products to use. ill post the link when i get home from work tonight.... if you haven't found it by then

how much you looking at for the toyota calipers?