lambs

In Vic, the old 'rule-of-thumb' for engine conversions was a 10% increase was allowable. That was to give plenty of allowance for extreme cases of large engines being over-bored, re-sleeved, whatever. Since the VASS scheme came into effect, such arbitrary rules no longer apply, but since some of you guys obviously have trouble accepting the facts, I suggest you go here: http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrne/vrne5nav.nsf/childdocs/-D6B2343989C152A5CA256FD300241C34-EEC8092FE0E5478FCA256FD300241C39?open ...and read VSI bulletin #8, section 11 for yourselves, noting particularly the wording about optional engines. I'll repeat that the L28 was _never_ a show-room-floor option for the 240Z for the general public and so is not regarded an 'optional' engine for the purpose of engine conversions under Vicroads rules (I have no idea about other states and could hardly care less). BUT I'll also repeat that for the purpose of the OP's question I wouldn't worry about it.

I've been told that Warren had a stroke, but is on the mend. Hope he gets well soon.

Good to hear the problem is fixed. It's fairly rare for the halfshafts to give balance problems, particularly as they only spin at a fraction of the speed of the tailshaft. I've used Precison Balancing in F/tree Gully many times + they are very close to me.

R31 turbo (import) struts are the same as those used on locally built R31 GTS1 and GTS3 spec cars (ie built by Nissan SVD), but local cars also had Bilstein suspension. To answer your questions: 1. they're hard to find 2. turbo struts have 100mm caliper mounts so can take R32, etc calipers, but non-turbo have 90mm. 3. steering knuckles aren't the same as Z type. Since the R31 turbo struts are a bit in the rare side, some have also tried Z31 turbo struts (in R31's, that is), but I don't know details.

Yes, I know your car, I suppose I was speaking more generally. In your case probably more the tyres than engine as there's not much difference in the weight of an L6 compared with a small block V8...some claim the V8 is lighter, but probably engines with alloy heads. How's Gordon's hand, BTW ??

WRX rack is the way to go by all reports, but the inner tie-rod end connections have to be modified to accept the Z tie-rod type. In the US a Mustang rack has been used, but don't know details. Personally I don't think a Z's steering is all that heavy. 2+2's have a slightly 'quicker' rack ratio to compensate for the increased weight. So a 2+2 rack can be used in a coupe to help matters, also useful for track work.

The bronze inlet valve seat was replaced with steel in E88 heads used with 260Z heads from about 1976, which was about the time that unleaded fuel was mandated in Japan (although it should be noted that recession mainly affects exhaust valve seats). TetraEthyl Lead was originally discovered to provide improved anti-knock capabilities but, as a combustion by-product, lead also provides a 'cushioning' effect on exhaust valve seats.

P40 L-series head ??, no such thing AFAIC, but if you have any photo's of the head I'd be interested. Patrol L28's used N42 head, or at least the 1/2 dozen or so that I've seen. P90 head was turbo L28 only, but it's possible one was fitted to a Patrol motor in a change-over at some stage. BTW, there was a P40 Nissan engine used in early Patrols. It was a 4L OHV straight 6...sure your not getting confused with that. As far as L26 blocks are concerned, they have the exhaust valve cut-out included at the top of each bore unlike L24 blocks, although they are all identified 'P30".

If by 'thicker' you mean strut tube diameter, then early 260Z coupe's use the same as 240Z (ie approx 51mm OD), but even the larger (55mm) diameter struts will fit, although you would need to use a matched pair.

If I remember correctly the 'F' and 'G' indicate, basically, progressive model versions. They're all DHLA 40mm, etc, but an 'F' version is earlier than a 'G' model and I believe there was a 'H' model as well. There are mechanical detail differences, but I couldn't tell you exactly what. It's best to use a matched set (ie all 'F' or all 'G', etc).

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Performance-Superlites-16-x-7-4x114-3-240z-260z_W0QQitemZ130033207370QQihZ003QQcategoryZ6782QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

On 240Z's and 260Z's and a lot of other Datsuns of that period the electrical contact assembly that is 'turned' by the ign switch is actually a separate assembly held in the 'back' of the ign switch assembly by 2 small screws. If you look closely at some of the pics in that E-bay link you can actually see what I mean. So it's possible to separate the contact unit from the rest of the switch assembly without having to drill out screw threads, etc. Unfortunately the contact unit is not available as a separate part from Nissan, but it's usually possible to find a good one at wreckers. Places like Pick-a-Part or Pick-Pay-and-Go are good for getting small parts like this. Look at things like 260C's or 180B's, etc, assuming there are no Z's available.

While I generally agree with the sentiment, for those with less mechanical experience it's not so simple and unfortunately relying on forum advice can be a bit of a minefield - some might be offended by that, but it is a fact. My cars and motorcycles have never seen the inside of mechanics workshop, except for things like RWC and dyno tuning, but I've also have many years of self-taught experience on cars an motorcycles inc building race engines, etc.

For an L24/L26/L28, 240Z Hitachi carbs are the best all round choice as they are well known in terms of tuning, etc and a good match to those engines (as long as the carbs are properly setup and in good nick). The Hitachi's are a copy of the British SU as already indicated. The carbs on the L26 engine are probably from a Jag or similar and are 'genuine' SU's. They can be made to work just as well as the 240Z carb, although needle selection can be a bit more involved. Sound like the mechanic didn't have much of a clue. Steve Newing in Mitcham knows his stuff (but ain't cheap) and then there's possibly Lou Mondello (Moorabbin) although he mainly specialises in Datsun Fairlady roadsters, although I know he has worked on Z's. Someone will also suggest Warren at Zworx.

All Z's sold in Australia came with a 5-speed, but the 4-speed was actually an option. In the US they only got the 4-speed and the 5-speed wasn't available until around the introduction of the 280Z, and even then it was the wide ratio type (FS5W71B). Early 240K's (pre 1976) came with a 4-speed manual from the factory for us, so it's possibly one of those (some other 6-cyl Datsuns - eg 240C - could be had as a 4-speed manual, but rare). The early 4-speed boxes are distinguishable by the long, thin metal cover screwed to the top of the extension housing in front of the gear lever - unfortunately a bit hard to see.