gav240z

We need to set a location and time, I think Sulio has an idea of the areas to take a few snap shots so I think I'll leave the fine details on that up to Sulio. What time is most convenient for everyone? I think sunset and onwards would be best for photos. What time does sun set these days? 8 oclock? Open to suggestions.

Hi Warren, yes I had a gutt feeling that was the case and Zeds being what they are we are going to have this sort of issue alot more. This is one of the reasons we need to raise money for the club so we can officially register the club, however that's a debate for another time, the first thing we need to do is arrange consistent meeting times and dates and get the interest in Z's around Australia at an all time high . Hope to see some of you down there even if it's just for a perve.

I think what would really finish the look of the car off would be the headlight covers with chrome strip and the bullet fender mirrors(ZG). That's my plan at least, good to see that Ash's mould of the 432 rear spoiler is one of the most accurate I've seen. All the American versions have added bits or are 3 piece or curve wrong(too many cooks). I'm going to get one of those bad boys from Ashley aswell.

Does anyone know the regulations of CH plates and how to make it an official invite/event? Can we do this or do we need to be an officially registered club? I have a member who needs to travel 3 hours to Melbourne for our photoshoot and requires a formal invitation to do so..

Ok I know that I should have sent a group email earlier but let's try and make it this saturday. I really like the effect you have achieved with those photos Sulio and I think it would look even better with more Zeds in the background. If we can't get the numbers we will have to push it forward to the week after I guess.

How does everyone feel about Saturday the 4th of February?

Hi guys would you be willing to meet up around the 2nd - 3rd 4th or 5th of Feb at night or during the day? Dependant on what sort of shots you guys want. Sandor from the Z Club in Hungary will be down in Melbourne around this time period and I think Mike (Nzeder) will be down here around then also. It also gives us all a bit of time to clean polish and wash our Zeds ready for the shoot . Should I send the usual group email?

Ok we'll I'm trying to achieve the following out of my 3.1 build. I want to make 300HP or more from my L28 and keep it streetable. I will be using triple Mikuni's. I will be using the LD28 crank. Custom Pistons. Stainless Valves. A ported P90 possibly rewelded need to speak with guys who are doing porting. Looking at custom cam gear to be able to adjust cam timing. Valve springs lash pads, rockers and camshaft will all be in accordance with camshaft profile. To my understanding cam duration is measured in relation to the rotation of the crank and controls open time for valves higher = longer. Lift = How wide the valve opens, like a tap you can open so far until you gain no more benefit. I've read the how to modify your Nissan/Datsun OHC book, however I'm still feeling lost on the camshaft side of things. Will it be possible to achieve 300+HP from my L28 on be able to drive it on the street quite easily? Or is this a pipe dream and should I be looking at forced induction .

My car isn't a daily driver it's more of a weekend warrior . I'm looking to build it into a semi race car but keep it street registered for a drive into the mountains or a day at the track, but I'd also like to be able to drive it down to St Kilda on the weekends . I know in terms of camshaft profiles bigger isn't always better, however I'd like to go with a fairly lumpy combo to match the coin thrown into porting and valve work.

I found this on ebay today, very tempted to buy it but i don't think it would be streetable. What's everyone else's opinion? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4606532847&fromMakeTrack=true

Hi guys just wondering if anyone can tell me about compression ratio's and the highest I can run on a street car running on petrol station pumps. I usually fill with 98 octane unless I can't then it's 95. I'm looking at a camshaft that will probably need a high 11:1 - 12:1 comp ratio. I think it's possible to get away with it, but don't want to waste my money on a cam I can't run because it needs AVGAS.

It's a difficult questions, having been a broke uni student I really wanted to make the car look nicer but didn't have the money to. Everytime you get money it seems like something mechanically fails and your money goes on upkeep rather than making it look nicer . I've been thinking about the Flares for a long long time now and that's half the reason I did the photoshop rendition of the car in the banner to get an idea of the look. Then when Sulio went and did it I must admit I was getting itchy feet to make the car look nice. However unlike Sulio I have some rust to take care of and to really fix it up I need to paint the whole car again with a great new paint job. When that time comes I want to strip it down and do a thorough job on it(SHOW QUALITY). I still think I'm a n00b mechanic when it comes to being careful working on my Z, so for now I think I'm better off fixing the mechanical things and sorting out my engine/suspension/drivetrain and interior. Last thing I want to do is paint it all up nice and get scratches or paint chips or worse dents in it. I also know that if I pull it apart it will be a while before I get to drive it. I love being able to drive it whenever I like, so for now the plan is to slowly collect all the bits I want off ebay or wherever so when the time comes to paint it I'll have all new rubbers, door handles, tail light lenses, bumpers, etc etc etc.. Another words body work last but when I do it, it will be the icing on the cake. I want the car to look brand new. Much like Nigels 240z.

Hi Evan, I believe the later strut towers on the 260z were different to the early 240z style ones. The 74-75ish 260z was almost the same body as the 240z and therefore 240z struts work in that. However I think if you have a later Z then you need the longer 280z style ones. Which I believe he does sell. I tried emailing him several times about sending to Australia he was useless, in all honesty I'd go with www.xshocks.com they did reply to email and I think they might be able to help you better. I have King Springs in my car but it's a very harsh ride not good for city driving really. Country roads no worries heaps of fun in the hills. I'm asking for some opinions on the progressive rate springs that are designed to suit the Tokico Illuminas I think they would work alot better on the street. I have no idea what my king springs are rated at but at a guess they are probably stiffer than the common 180lbs that they sell. I'd guess maybe 250+ lbs?? If you do get it you will love the way your car handles but you'll hate little bumps in the road lol. I recall Mike (NZeder) was saying something about 260z strut towers being different dependant on the year maybe ask him?

Nothing from Steve Newing comes cheap. It's been a long time since I checked' date=' but bare TB's were around the $500 mark each. Injectors are about $100 each (new), manifold ?? (redline made one, but crap quality). Then there's velocity stacks or air cleaners, TPS, ECU. All-in-all it gets expensive.......[/quote'] Yes I estimate $3500 - $4000 all up and that was one of the reasons I went with the Triple Mikuni's. I'm thinking of a wild cam profile but want to be able to drive it on the street. So I thought F.I would be good to make it a little more drivable with the extreme cam and port work. Thanks mate I'm going to have a read of the "How to modify your NIssan Datsun OHC" book and see what it recommends based on my engine specs but no doubt I'll need a little help getting them set right. Yeah sounds like what I've heard from lots of people the triple mikuni's are apparently very good at keeping in tune' date=' once set correctly anyway. I hear Webers are more difficult but I think there are a few extra bits and pieces in the weber for finer adjustments. Thanks mate, shipping worked out fairly cheap for their size and weight. I think it was around $50-$80 can't recall for sure now but that was because I put them on the slow boat from china as it were shipping wise I chose the cheap option but there is a 4-6 week wait. The seller also agreed to tick gift on the package so that customs wouldn't pinch me for more coin. Apparently up to $1000 AUD is tax free then anything over will cost, so I may have to pay a bit more once they arrive, we will see.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4604638651&ssPageName=ADME:B:DS:AU:29 I was bidding on this item and was prepared to go to $45 for it and decided not to bid after that. I was a little suprised to see it go for $90+ for just 1 tail light and second hand. I'm thinking of importing some remanufactured tail lights and selling them here. However I need the old casings and I'd need to rechrome the strip between the lenses. So what are they worth to people???

Hi Mike, I saw those for sale on trademe.co.nz and was thinking about bidding but passed it up, unsure of how good they would be. I noticed they appeared to be the earlier type which to some are more valuable. I didn't know I was after a set either, infact I really wanted a set of 50's but I haven't even seen a picture of a set let alone any for sale on ebay or here. I have also been giving alot of thought to the throttle boddies and have even been considering changing my mind and selling these Mikuni's even though I haven't even received them yet :? . Does anyone know how much I would be up for in total for the Speed Technology Throttle Boddies and all the hardware for putting them on my Z? I always seem to find out about these good deals after months of searching for parts I want like the LD28 crank I bought lol... I guess my thinking is if I keep looknig for the perfect deal I'll never get this car done. My motor hasn't come along very far since the last time we spoke, mainly because I haven't been able to get a hold of the guy who currently has all my gear. I'm hoping to get it back soon and put the gear on an engine stand. There is also a TWM throttle body kit I think it uses weber style bodies or something like that. http://www.jenvey.co.uk/ http://www.twminduction.com/ I can't seem to find the other link I was thinking of.

I'm a strong believer in Ebay myself of course it's good to do some research may as well ask at Nissan. You could find one at a wrecker or a similar item but for $13.00 US it's currently at it's a good price. Always check seller feedback and ask for shipping prices first. So far I've had good luck for the most part but overpaid on a AMP FUEL Gauge due to shipping cost.

Welcome aboard, yes there is lots to look for. It all depends on the kind of work your confident doing on the car. If you are mechanically inclined then I'd say the mechanics of the car are pretty easy to take care of. If your worried about body work then look for a straight example. There are so many tips to give but it's really hard since you could write a book on the topic to sum it up all in one go. I would suggest having a read at www.zhome.com http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust/RustPrevention240Z.htm and here: http://zhome.com/Buying/WhatToWatchFor.html If you have any other questions after that feel free to ask.

I went to an advanced driving course I think it was the John Bowe school anyway they recommend 40psi - 45psi. The only difference will be a harder ride.

I don't think they are stock needles from memory they are the SM performance needles not overly expensive but neccessary with the extra displacement. Keep in mind he has a 4.11 diff and I think a good ratio Gbox. He's also done some valve work from what I have read. Not sure about porting.

Hi everyone, I've been thinking of doing an upgrade to 260z stub axles and replacing the wheel bearings at the same time. My question is does anyone know if the 2+2 stub axles and 2 seater stub axles are the same? I have heard some horror stories of stub axles breaking and I am of the understanding that the 260z stub axle is more robust has something like 27 splines. Also if anyone knows what's the best way to remove these without damaging them? Do you need to have them pressed out? :shock:

The choice is solely yours but FWIW I'd only paint the underside of the car black and the rest the color of the exterior.

Hi Nathan, Nigel Nr240 or Nr240z can't remember which username he is using at the moment has a set of 260z mags for sale with tyres. I think he wants about $140 with new tyres. I have always liked the ZX Iron Cross style rims on early Z's.

I found that replacing my tie rods and ball joints helped alot. If these are stiff it won't help your steering much, however the Z does tend to be a heavy car to steer, oh and the worst is after being at the gym :cry: . I also have the standard steering wheel for a 240z which probably helps.