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Posted

Yes, the pump's working. Before, I had no return, and I had too much fuel pressure (carbs were flooding).

Is the regulator working then?

What about the needle and seats? They are new, but set correctly?

Posted

Sorry i missed your reply, if in doubt PM  ;D Pull out the emulsion tubes and if you look down there you will see a gallery ( a hole round in shape) going off to the side on an angle. If the level in the carby is correct the fuel should be just a couple of mm below this hole. Above and it will flood.

Posted

I'm thinking it might be the floats after all - I quickly adjusted them (the carb on cylinder 5/6 in particular looked like it might not be closing the needle completely), and now it won't start, sounding like there's not enough fuel. I'll have to take the time to re-do them all again properly.

 

I've got a small leak from the pressure regulator, which was making me think pressure too high, but now I think it's just a fitting not tightened properly. I have got a fairly significant leak from the mechanical pump somewhere though...

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I think I'm making progress now, however slowly...

 

I had a fuel pouring out the middle carb, turned out the float wasn't straight and was catching on the wall of the bowl. Fixed that, and everything looks good, but it's still not running (with any idle mixture screw setting).

 

I'm thinking fuel levels might be a bit low? I looked in each carb, and they were all the same, about 5mm or so below the holes in the inner walls for the jets. Does that sound ok, or should it be closer? I was thinking it should be more like 1-2mm from the holes? I ran out of time tonight, but hopefully I'll get a chance to try increasing the fuel levels tomorrow night.

Posted

The fuel level sounds ok! Try hooking up all the chokes with one wire (or hook two up using the stock choke cable) and get someone to assist you on start up. you may have to reach under each carb and manually prime each pump jet by operating the lever a few times until you can hear fuel squirting in each carby.

I have to pump my gas pedal about 10 times to get my Zed to start without chokes and then massage from there for a minute or two!

Posted

Ok, so the pump jet lever thing wasn't attached right on one of the carbs, hence no start. Good call... Fixed that up, and away she goes...

 

Quite rough though. Initially, spitting fire through one of the carbs, which was because of a lean idle mixture. Currently running 4 turns out from closed on the idle screws, and it's better, but still popping and hunting. I'm thinking it's still a bit on the lean side...

 

Unfortunately I have poor lighting in my garage, so I don't get much daylight after work at the moment to work on it. And I can't find my Des Hammill book...

Posted

How about doing another utube video this weekend? If you're running electronic ignition i'm going to say you're timing is out. From my experience a lean carb will backfire through the carby and a rich one through the exhaust!

Posted

For a while now I've been umm-ing and arr-ing about doing an RB swap on this car. I even have the engine mounts and 200ZR sump. But today I got the L28 with triples to a point where they'll happily run and rev, and oh my the sound! I could listen to that all day...

 

It was a combination of problems (or stuff-ups on my part  ::)) - timing was way off, and the throttle wheels were hitting the carb bodies preventing the butterflies from closing all the way at idle.

 

They're still far from perfect - I need to set the timing properly, synchronise the carbs and spend time tuning/fiddling with jets, but at least it's running properly now.

 

And that sound...  ;D

 

edit: video!

- Engine was cold, so didn't want to rev too hard (and the "hehe"at the end is pretty embarrassing  ::))
Posted

Ah the joys of triples, great satisfaction when you get them right though. The sync will be much more noticeable at low/part throttle and not as noticeable at 3/4 to full throttle, I could always tell when mine were out as they became a tiny bit lumpy down lown. An air fuel meter can be really helpful too, Jaycar do DIY kits if your good at soldering for approx $60 and you need a 02 sensor to go with it. Sounds like your on the home stretch now.

Posted

So things are moving along now... My carb synchrometer arrived, so it shouldn't be long now until the carbs are set up well enough to drive, the brakes should be all sorted (just need to bleed and double check for leaks), and I'm dropping the fuel tank off for cleaning/rust removal and sealing tomorrow. I'm still tracking down some little bits and pieces that I'm missing, but other than that I'm getting pretty close to getting it painted - and that means the ago old question of "what colour?".

 

I've pretty much decided, but would like to get some opinions, as it may be a bit "out there". I want to paint it Ford Dash green (see pic), which I think will look really good with the matte black Rota RBs and a dark window tint. I've seen this combination (Dash green and matte black wheels) in the flesh on an FG falcon, and it looks really good, but I've got just a little bit of doubt about whether it's too "loud" for a 240z. What does everyone think?

post-1454-144023683484_thumb.jpg

Posted

112? I don't dislike it, but it's a bit lighter/yellow-er than what I'm after. 918 Orange is my favourite factory colour, and for a while was what I wanted, but I've since switched to green.

Posted

looks like the colour of scootas car?

Mint Julip from Holden used on the Sandman, LH Torana and others. The kids love it, the old people . . . not so much!

Posted

My word yes (seeing as i am color blind) i was going to paint my wheels satin black and tint the windows. I think it would pop! Better hurry up and flip a coin  :P

  • 4 months later...

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