Riceburner Posted January 16, 2011 Posted January 16, 2011 Hey guys just wondering if anyone has fitted an LD28 water pump to their Petrol Lseries motor. I've been doing some reading on HybridZ and they are supposed to have better flow rate than the standard pump. Anyone know more about these and if they are still available? I'm thinking of fitting one to the ricey's new motor... Quote
C.A.R. Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 I've never heard of it Get one & let us know, G-man! Quote
RB30X Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 There are a few links below about this, the best being the first one. I would think modifying your own water pump would be far easier as installing an LD28 pump means you'd have to modify your timing cover anyway. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/page__st__40 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/81560-ld28-water-pump-install-question-for-those-who-have-done-this-modification/page__p__773397__hl__%2Bld28+%2Bwater+%2Bpump__fromsearch__1#entry773397 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/63184-improving-cooling-system-pumping-efficiency/page__p__586971__hl__%2Bld28+%2Bwater+%2Bpump__fromsearch__1#entry586971 Quote
Riceburner Posted January 17, 2011 Author Posted January 17, 2011 I could be wrong but thought the only mods required are shaving the impeller housing by 6-12mm and possibly also triming the pump blades to fit in the timing cover? They also mention alterations for an l20b timing cover but that is used on an LD28 block to match the taller block height. From what I understand the added pressure, flow, turbulence will aid heat transfer and help prevent formation of steam pocket in the cylinder head.. Is that right? Quote
RB30X Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 Trimming the blades seems a bit of a waste of time as thats why you are upgrading anyway. Also, the blades are a spinning mass so you'd have to get them trimmed on a lathe which would require dissassembly of the water pump. Any little unbalance would see your bearing fail. Steam pockets in the cylinder head would only form if you haven't bleed the cooling system properly or the coolant flow is too slow (or stopped). I'd modify you original pump and housing or go electric. Quote
ozconnection Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 Anyone who has ever ventured to Hybridz will know how passionate those guys are about their cooling systems. The 'sticky' on cooling systems is HUGE with heaps of interesting discussions on the topic of engine cooling, including LD28 water pumps. Do yourself a favour and read the whole thing. It's very interesting. Electric water pumps are crap. They are unable to shift the water through the cooling system with sufficient pressure to increase the boiling point of the coolant. Remember high school science boys! Use water wetter. Use distilled water. Use a higher rated radiator cap. 20 psi is good. Use a nice big three core brass or aluminium radiator. Use a shroud. Electric or engine fan your choice. Don't overspeed your water pump and use an LD28 water pump. The mods to the front cover is no more than a slight grinding of a single point. Your water pump gasket for this pump will show you exactly what needs to be done. Very easy to do. I run an LD28 water pump on my L28. My cooling system works Cheers. Quote
Riceburner Posted January 17, 2011 Author Posted January 17, 2011 Ah excellent! Do you have a part number and where did you get it from? Cheers, gareth. Quote
Ben Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 From October last year from my local dealer (I get a discount): 21010-17SY7 water pump $175.00 Quote
dazzed Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 take the water pump off throw it in the bin and just run the engine on methanol that will keep it cool and you can say look mum no water pump Quote
dazzed Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 Hey guys just wondering if anyone has fitted an LD28 water pump to their Petrol Lseries motor. I've been doing some reading on HybridZ and they are supposed to have better flow rate than the standard pump. Anyone know more about these and if they are still available? I'm thinking of fitting one to the ricey's new motor... somebody put a halt on this topic now Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted January 17, 2011 Administrators Posted January 17, 2011 somebody put a halt on this topic now Seems like a valid topic to me. I would be interested in knowing more, but $170 for a water pump is damn expensive. When a std L28 one is about $50 from memory. Quote
peter mc Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 never had a problem with a L series if the motor is tuned proply and you have a good rad .standard pump works fine .most of the time i have problems geting them hot.. Quote
ozconnection Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 A standard pump will work just fine if that's what you want. The LD28 pump is what I would call "high performance". You don't have to run it, but the Devondorf Electramotive ZX of the eighties ran an LD pump. They must have known something the about its potential back then to want to be using one. I run one because I can, but I didn't pay $175 for it either. There are cheaper OEM's out there, just gotta look. If you don't want to be bothered waiting, then you know where to get one. I'm not trying to be elusive, but no-one told me where to look and I found 'em. A lot cheaper than what's been quotes on here. I'll get back to block pressure. I put an EFI autometer fuel gauge onto a hose plumbed into a fitting just below the thermostat in the housing there and did some water pressure testing. With the stock L28 pump I saw a max of about 28psi blipping the throttle when the engine was cold (thermostat closed) Hot, the pressure was even less than that. Put the LD28 pump in and the pressures were up to almost 35 when cold and as much when hot. On my street engine (which was tested) I run a thermostat, 180 degrees so my engine runs hotter for improved thermal efficiency but my other L28 in the coupe will run a restictor because of better temperature and pressure consistancy, allowing a higher level of tune for NA engines but especially so for boosted engines. Im shooting for a constant 30-35 psi coolant pressure in the block and head. The bigger LD pump is just a logical choice, when available. Cheers. Quote
Riceburner Posted January 18, 2011 Author Posted January 18, 2011 take the water pump off throw it in the bin and just run the engine on methanol that will keep it cool and you can say look mum no water pump somebody put a halt on this topic now Well that was total dribble, obviously it was past your bedtime Quote
Riceburner Posted January 18, 2011 Author Posted January 18, 2011 For $170 I don't think I'll do it, but I'll have ashop around and see what I can find. Thanks guys Quote
peter mc Posted January 18, 2011 Posted January 18, 2011 ozconnection what hp does your L28 make as i have never had to do is mod and most of my motors never get over 86c and make well over 260hpna at the wheels with standard pump Quote
ozconnection Posted January 19, 2011 Posted January 19, 2011 I think you missed the point of the original poster. :-\ I think I gave him an answer that he was looking for even if it wasn't the one you were. I made it quite clear that running the standard pump was acceptable for anyone and that running the LD was a viable option, just like the guy that runs an 80 amp alternator when his original 60 amp one will probably do. My usage is rooted into a discussion with Paul Ruschman aka Braap on Hybridz. It's a long story but I installed it with the intention of running a very advanced timing curve and experimented with increasing the overall cooling efficiency of my L28 to cope with the changes. It worked. Driving in traffic with a 1500kg behemoth, auto trans with a high stall, AC on with an AC condensor and trans cooler in front of my radiator plus a "bucket load" of low speed torque and ignition advance 'warranted' what I should have called "heavy duty water pump" rather than a "high performance water pump" but this may be just a case of semantics. You decide. Quote
RB30X Posted January 27, 2011 Posted January 27, 2011 Hey Gareth and any one else planning on improving their cooling capacity. Check out the photo halfway down this thread where the radiator hose on the suction side of the pump is sucked flat!!!!! http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/page__st__400 Would'nt get to see that when you're up it would you. Quote
Riceburner Posted January 27, 2011 Author Posted January 27, 2011 Hey Gareth and any one else planning on improving their cooling capacity. Check out the photo halfway down this thread where the radiator hose on the suction side of the pump is sucked flat!!!!! http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/page__st__400 Would'nt get to see that when you're up it would you. Yeah I did see that mate and Im going to get a stainless steel bottom rad hose. Similar to what the hot rods run Quote
peter mc Posted January 27, 2011 Posted January 27, 2011 mate it your car but you don't need this stuff Quote
Riceburner Posted January 27, 2011 Author Posted January 27, 2011 mate it your car but you don't need this stuff I was just thinking it'd be extra insurance? Quote
ozconnection Posted February 4, 2011 Posted February 4, 2011 Here is a picture of the water pumps. The left one is the standard L series, the right one is the LD28 version. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.