FRESHY

[Reptile]

Hey all,

 

I'm completely new to Zs and dont have one YET. I've recently become quite obsessed with them. A friend of a friend is selling his 77 260Z 2X2 with low kms... I hardly know the guy so I can't be sure he's going to be 100% honest (like most people selling a second hand car). It's all original, the body is in great condition, as is the interior... but it's interstate, so I can't just pop around and test drive it. He claims its in very good mechanical condition... and only the outer door rubbers need replacing. I'm a uni student and certainly don't have an abundance of $$... The thing is, i have my heart set on it, but have been getting mixed advice from people whose opinion I trust with cars.

 

Do they cost a lot to upkeep?

 

Are parts hard to come by?

 

Are they easily fixed?

 

Cheers.

[luvemfast]

Welcome

 

Mechanical is easy, the enemy is RUST

[.]

Welcome to the forum. Where is the car? You might get some offers from a local on the forum to check it on your behalf.

 

Normally at this point we ask newbies to post some pictures of their car....So in your case can you post some pics of the space where your car will be once you purchase one

[FLEXZED]

Sounds to me that it might be this one

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DATSUN-260Z-SPORTS-COUPE-2X2-/250732765462?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3a60d66116

 

77 260z 2X2

 

 

Loui

[Mr Camouflage]

What's up with the front bumper? looks a bit askew

[boyblunda]

I think that it is a fairly adventurous move to consider buying an old make of car with a reputation for rust without inspecting or having it inspected first. With the paint job being a few years old then at least if rampant rust is an issue then it should be starting to show signs by now.

Other than rust, which is the first and probably most important question to be addressed,  it is almost normal to expect a non working clock, a cracked dash and a damaged console but non of these latter items prevent the car from being a great drive.

Do you have undercover parking available to you?  Keeping these cars out of the sun and the rain is a good thing.

The final question I would suggest you consider is whether or not you really want a 2+2 and whether you are going to be happy with an automatic over a manual. On the other hand, any Zed is a good starter, the 2+2 is a better tourer, the auto can be swapped for a manual, and the prices are cheaper for the "less desirable" 2+2.

One of the best thing about Zeds is that they are relatively easy to work on and that second hand parts can be tracked down through the Zed community and from wreckers yards where there is quite a source of suitable Nissan parts from later model cars. Information and encouragement to do your own maintenance is offered freely on this site.

My first Zed purchased was a 1977 auto 2+2 - I just eventually, after 30 plus years of wanting one, had to take the plunge. It is now a little rustier, but with the only modification being a MSD, is still a great drive and is my daily driver while I am at home while my other project cars are being worked on. I bought the 1977 car with the knowledge that it was rusty but was happy to drive it until it died and then keep it as a parts car but so far it just keeps going and I think it will continue to do so until the body falls off around the mechanicals

We all understand your want here, but you do need a few backup dollars when owning an old car.

Good luck with your Zed quest.

[Reptile]

hey thanks so much for the advice guys. The car isn't the one on the ebay listing, it was in Brisvages...but....what do we think of that one (on ebay)?

 

It does have low Kms, and the interior looks pretty good doesn't it? I do like the colour, nothing mentioned about rust.

 

If I can keep the price down, I may have a couple of K to fix things here and there.

 

I'm just a complete novice. Any thoughts? (It's still interstate)

 

Cheers.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DATSUN-260Z-SPORTS-COUPE-2X2-/250732765462?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3a60d66116#ht_1192wt_1141

[boyblunda]

Freshy, in the photos this car presents really well and if the mechanicals are up to the standard of the presentation in the photos, then you would be on a good thing PROVIDED that it is not rusty. I bought both of my 2+2's sight unseen BUT in both cases I had a friend with a good idea about Zeds go and check them out for me and I found that I got exactly what I was expecting.

 

I do not think I could recommend buying a car from a few photos without getting it checked out by someone who can give you an honest appraisal. The ebay Zed certainly looks like one that is worthwhile following up and seems to be at a fair price at the moment.

 

There is another 2+2 on ebay at the moment in parts, rubbed down for painting, at $1500. Not the car for someone who is a starter in he field without good workshop skills. Even a rusted parts car can fetch $750 or so. A daily driver in poor condition but going will likely cost $1800+ and halfway clean cars start at about $3000. From first appearances the ebay car rates above any category I have listed here.

 

My thought is that the better the body, the more money you will save yourself and that is worth paying a higher price for a car with a good body and interior.

 

All the best with your considerations.

[gav240z]

Freshy, in the photos this car presents really well and if the mechanicals are up to the standard of the presentation in the photos, then you would be on a good thing PROVIDED that it is not rusty. I bought both of my 2+2's sight unseen BUT in both cases I had a friend with a good idea about Zeds go and check them out for me and I found that I got exactly what I was expecting.

 

I do not think I could recommend buying a car from a few photos without getting it checked out by someone who can give you an honest appraisal. The ebay Zed certainly looks like one that is worthwhile following up and seems to be at a fair price at the moment.

 

There is another 2+2 on ebay at the moment in parts, rubbed down for painting, at $1500. Not the car for someone who is a starter in he field without good workshop skills. Even a rusted parts car can fetch $750 or so. A daily driver in poor condition but going will likely cost $1800+ and halfway clean cars start at about $3000. From first appearances the ebay car rates above any category I have listed here.

 

My thought is that the better the body, the more money you will save yourself and that is worth paying a higher price for a car with a good body and interior.

 

All the best with your considerations.

 

+1 for that, rust is the killer. Since it's an eBay listing you should feel free to ask the seller any questions about the vehicle. You should definitely ask him for details about rust and even ask for more detailed photos as you are interstate. If the seller lies to you or you feel the car has not been honestly described then even if you bid and win the auction you should be able to walk away on the basis that the item was not as described.

 

The seller may try and leave you negative feedback, but at the end of the day if the item is not as described or has major issues upon close inspection that were not mentioned. Legally I believe you don't have to buy it.

 

I would suggest getting a South Australian (Auszcar) member to take a look at it if you are serious. They can take a digital camera and get photos of all the major rust areas.

 

- Battery Box

- Under spare wheel in boot

- Lower sills (always a major problem area)

- Front dog legs - around front suspension

- Under rear hatch

- Doors

- Floors

 

Usually they will do this in exchange for a few slabs of beer or a little bit of cash for fuel and other expenses. A member knows exactly where the trouble spots on a Z are and will also know if the car is driving ok.

 

I would also get the car inspected by a local mechanic if you can organise it with the seller - maybe a workshop near him? I recently bought a Mazda RX-7 which was located in Cork (I live in Dublin / Ireland at the moment) and the mechanic went over it for me and told me about a couple of minor issues (throw out bearing making some noise and some oil residue around sump). I knew exactly what I bought and have been pretty happy with it so far.

 

FWIW that 2+2 does look like an honest clean example and I really like the original butterscotch interior with green paint. If you buy it, please keep it that way .

 

Also if you can give the owner a call and have a chat do that, honestly email and asking questions over eBay is not the same.

 

[Reptile]

Thanks so much for the detailed advice Boyblunda and Gav...and Gav I would keep the colours that way...I really like them too. 

 

I'm very keen to have a member look at it for me and more than willing to give them $$ for beer, petrol, time etc.

 

There are only two days left on the listing?

 

How do I go about getting a member to help???

 

I'm going to call the seller today.

 

Cheers.

 

 

[boyblunda]

Emil

 

If after talking to the seller today you remain keen on following up on the car, you might go to the South Australian section and PM a few of the more active members there to see if they can help OR if they can recommend someone to you who might be able to help. They might also know of some good workshop Zed contacts who might do the inspection on your behalf.

 

All the best.

 

Dave

[Lynton]

Oh dear.........and I Quote:- "less desirable" 2+2.

Of course that has to be a matter of opinion?

I have owned many datsuns and nissan sports cars over many years of which I can honestly say neither are less desirable than the other, be it a 2 seater or a 2+2.

When purchasing a 260Z new, there were very few 2 seaters sold in Australia compared to the obviously user friendly, very ever popular 2+2....... so less desirable........... I don't think so?

Look at the number of 240Z's for sale on carsales at the moment 10 and all 2 seaters no other badge choice.

Look at the number of 260Z's for sale on carsales at the moment 11 made up of 2 two seaters, 9 2+2's, both models in numbers available for sale are as rare and desirable as each other, the 2 seater 260Z even rarer, alternatively a person purchasing a 260z makes the decision on what suits their perspective when buying. (dollars, style, restoration etc)

Both cars look awsome as racing or works cars neither is better than the other IMO, purely how one looks and perceives the portrait in front of them.

But if you want a 2 seater option then the only decision for a thoroughbred classic is a 240Z.......end of story.

Lynton

 

 

[C.A.R.]

Reptile, I suggest you take up Golf or Croquet instead.

 

HTH.

[boyblunda]

G'Day Lynton and thanks for putting the matter straight with the 2+2 - I did put the "less desirable" in my original quote in inverted commas to indicate that it was a thought commonly espoused by a few as might be found on ClassicZ for example. The fact that I have two 2+2's in my personal stable and a single two seater would indicate my lack of preference for one over the other except for the fact that, for me, the 2+2 is unquestionably the better tourer.

 

As you say it is all a matter of opinion and I genuinely thank you for the effort you made to present some objective facts in ably stating your point in this matter - loved the style of your post.

 

With regard to whether or not the 240Z two seater is a better car than the 260Z two seater, we could have a longer discussion over that and I can readily see the arguments stacking up on both sides of the fence. However, I readily concede that the 240Z is likely to be the more desirable of the two. Oh dear, I think I may have done it again.

 

Regards

Dave

 

 

[Lynton]

Boyblunda, why I say the 240Z is the only option for a 2 seater classic over a 260Z is because it was designed and marketed as a raw classic sports car in the first place.

No pollution equipment, proper twin SU's, a hand throttle, wood rimmed steering wheel and IRS and plenty of after market boyz gear to add on.

 

By the time the 260Z 2 seater coupe arrived it ended up with different compression ratio, silky smooth but spongy engine that ran out of puff and was not responsive to aggressive throttle movement, flat top Hitachies, carbon cannister, boring safety black soft grip steering wheel and horn button, better bigger wheels and tyres, better ventilation and in my opinion a nicer and smoother tail light finish and the option of factory air-conditioning in the later 260Z 2 seater Coupes, these cars were now most suitable for the office exec's and their wives to drive the braun had been left behind. Not to say of course this can't be changed but it is the way it was.

Lynton