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alternative alternators


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Im about to bury my alternator in the garden (type & year unknown)...

I'd like to go to my local wreckers, but I'd like a few options as to what other alternators from different cars will fit an L -series, Im looking for at least 70-80amps.

Can we start a list perhaps & maybe make this a sticky ?  (Im expecting at least a handfull from Dimitri  8))

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Love the title Chris!

I'll be removing my engine from my 240Z very soon so then I will be able to have a good close look at my alternator. It is from a 280ZX and apparently they came with a couple of different models. The one I have is the smaller or later model but what I have to have a close look at is the part or model number. With my voltmeter and all the powered things running off my zed (ECU, 2 fuel pumps, injectors list goes on etc) the volts never go below 13.8V. I'll post as soon as I know and take a close up pic.

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Hi Chris,


I found this source here to be very good:




I bought an LR170 300zx 70amp model new for about $250 (trade price), same as this one here (  http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-300ZX-Navara-Pathfinder-Pulsar-N13-Alternator-/280531590493?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4150fc5d5d  ) and I just need to get a wiring connector from a wrecked 300zx to make it neat cause I don't want dodgy connections. The alternator came with a performance test sheet and allegedly puts out 85amps from 5000rpm upwards, 15-20 amps idle and 24amps at 1800rpm when the regulator kicks in. It will hopefully be much better than the crappy 50amp I have that wont keep a battery charged between race events!

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great repsonses  ;D Ive just copy-pasted the ebay details here, as it may not work in a few months...


Brand New Alternator, OEM No. LR170-726B, LR170-739, LR170-745, LR170-769, LR190-715, B C, E,

12V, 70A, 1A Pulley, Internall Regulated, Leg Angle 12:00

Replace OEX: HXA023, HXA030, HXA035

Cooldrive 65-3107

Suit: Nissan

300C PY30 enigneVG30E V6 3.0L Petrol 84-86;

300ZX Z30 enigneVG30E V6 3.0L Petrol 84-85;

Navara D21 enigneVG30E V6 3.0L Petrol 92-97;

Pathfinder D21 enigneZ24 4cyl. 2.4L Petrol 86-92;

Pathfinder D21 enigneVG30E V6 3.0L Petrol 92-95;


can anyone confirm 100% if a VL - R30 will definetely hook up ??

I thought I read that early series commodore VB-VH 6cyl hooked up...or maybe I dreamt it  ::)




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I heard that the Holden VL alternator was an option too (and the starter motor)...

I have a holden alternator on my Zed (oscar) i had to modify the bracket by drilling the holes out to run a bolt straight through, i also had to trim the bracket on both sides to make it fit... 140 amps and easy part to find with an option to put in genuine bosch parts.

I can post some pictures of the modification it's an easy swap P.S. it also requires a solenoid wired in too.

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  • 9 months later...


  I'm new to the forum but have been datsun mad for ages. I have made a number of custom alternators through work using standard L series Bosch alternator and upgraded Bosch components from late model EFI applications. 85amp output at 14.4v all day long, with no modifications needed to the mounts. Kits available soon to anyone who is interested. Minimal wiring modifications required too.



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  • 2 years later...

Simple alternative.

Either use a EA ford falcon Bosch 85amp alternator Re60 voltage regulator.

It's a single vbelt

To install flip it upside down when installing. You need like some washer / to line it the pulley and belt.

Dime a dozen and cheap.


B+ to battery

S to the battery +

L to a 2watt globe or less(or you will blow the regulator) connected to your ignition

(If a using a higher wattage globe then you will need to connect a resistor to restrict wattage is. 1watt 68ohm resistor from you local electronics store for 50c)



Other alternative use the Holden VN VP etc alternator. Basically the same thing. Flip it and washers to fit.


Same connection.



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  • 4 years later...

I've often thought of replacing the alternator with a deep cycle battery, and a large series of peltier modules that run off of the exhuast. The exhuast gets really toasty (especially if you wrap it upstream) and there is this beutiful supply of cold air running along most of it for the cold side heatsink.

Problems i can see with this? 

1) You'd have to run two modules in series, possibly three to get to 15V which is about where you'd have to be to completely replace the alternator
2) You'd have to integrate your own smart charging circuitry. Charging at 15V at all times would place an undue strain on your battery, and you'd be chewing through batteries every few years (which i guess isn't terrible)
3) If you were doing a lot of short trips, you'd run into issues.
4) I have no idea how much power would be required. Most i could see you generating in this fashion would be 500w (ish) and that would be a LOT of modules
5) You would have to engineer the thermal coupling to the exhuast to ensure that the peltiers didn't approach the melting temperature of the solder used to create the junctions

If anyone knows what kind of load it takes to run a car, i'd be curious.

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