Z Posted November 6, 2011 Posted November 6, 2011 It's sweet and tonnes of poke for a daily. I thought the rear bumper design when these came out was pretty cool. Nice colour too. Quote
RB30X Posted November 22, 2011 Author Posted November 22, 2011 Finally finished the rails. Big thanks to Peter (Allen) for his idea of welding 'through' the floor rather than from underneath, and ScottZ for letting me borrow his awesome MIG welder. I got a little bit loose with the paint on tar (thats what all that messy stuff is on the seams). I was thinking of strengthening the original moustache bar by welding some steel to it and then I saw this pic, which makes me think if I should make up a brace that goes between the two rear mounts of the control arms as well. Just to keep everything solid when launching etc. What do you think? Quote
Riceburner Posted November 22, 2011 Posted November 22, 2011 Should stiffen it up a bit. What this weld through trick Tim? Sounds like it could be a handy thing to know... Quote
RB30X Posted November 22, 2011 Author Posted November 22, 2011 you might want to consider carefully drilling only two of those screw holes in the ends of the rails and then running a string-line (or the like) between the two screw threads inside the cabin. You could then drill a series of say 5mm holes along the line. By holding the rail up against the floor with a jack you could then weld the rail to the floor at the hole points, all from inside the cabin! Of course if you prefer the masochistic pain of molten metal running down inside your sleeves and splitting your head open as you react to the pain, by all means proceed to use an overhead welding technique. Thats basically exactly how I did it right there Gareth, patent pending "Peter's Chassis Repairs Encorporated". The holes were drilled approx 1 inch apart, on both sides of the rail for the entire length. You can see the drilled holes on the previous page. I went through and spot welded along the edges of the rail afterwards. The RHS at the end might be a bit bogan for some, but it was the best I could do without the car on a hoist and will still be very strong. I fish oiled the rails, then sealed the seams and welds with sicaflex, then painted body deadener tar over the sicaflex and painted the rail itself black. So much easier for those of us not blessed with a hoist or with their car on a rotissery. Although I still had to weld each end of the rail under the car still, which I still have a few bald spots on my head from. At least the smell of burnt hair has cleared the garage now. Quote
RB30X Posted December 8, 2011 Author Posted December 8, 2011 I have been doing stuff to the Zed I promise, its just that I've got this other new toy and its been taking up some of my time (and money). Quote
Snoop G Posted December 8, 2011 Posted December 8, 2011 V8 boy through and through ye i reackon Quote
RB30X Posted January 23, 2012 Author Posted January 23, 2012 Thought its been a while since I posted a photo of my 'whole' car, so I took a couple after a wash today. Quote
RAdelaideRatsun Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 Love it, looks tough as, do you have any clips of it running or drive by? Quote
RB30X Posted January 23, 2012 Author Posted January 23, 2012 Heaps if you look through this thread. Heres what you've got to look foward to: I do have to get some more though. Quote
Riceburner Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 Did you end up making the extra brace across the back of the diff just above the contol arm mounts? Quote
Agno Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 Split bumper (Camaro RS style) would really work on this car I think. Looks tops though! Quote
RB30X Posted February 1, 2012 Author Posted February 1, 2012 Took some videos today on my son's Ipod because its supposed to record at 1080p quality. It doesnt. And the cheap suction cup holder I bought to hold the ipod moves around a bit too. Quote
Veloce Posted February 1, 2012 Posted February 1, 2012 Nice one. Have you thought about clear indicator lenses on the front? I reckon they would look ace with the white paint. Quote
RB30X Posted February 1, 2012 Author Posted February 1, 2012 No, I purposely chose yellow so there was contrast against the white, and I like how it looks. And no I didnt modify the bar Gareth, not yet. Quote
benny Posted February 1, 2012 Posted February 1, 2012 haha tim... when do you put the ferrari engine in?? Awesome sound Quote
RB30X Posted February 2, 2012 Author Posted February 2, 2012 Sure makes it fast doesnt it Benny I finally pulled my finger out and ordered a clutch. This of course ment I had to pull the engine and box out to replace the clutch. I gave it all a gerney and I will endevour to fix some oil leaks while I'm there. Quote
garvice Posted February 2, 2012 Posted February 2, 2012 ha. You pull an engine and gearbox to change a clutch our was that just an excuse to use the engine crane? Guess bench pressing a box like that wouldn't be too fun. Looks like you need a hoist/transmission jack. Quote
RB30X Posted February 5, 2012 Author Posted February 5, 2012 ha. You pull an engine and gearbox to change a clutch our was that just an excuse to use the engine crane? Guess bench pressing a box like that wouldn't be too fun. Looks like you need a hoist/transmission jack. Ha. It was kind of both. If I didnt have an engine crane I would have tried to get it out without one. I bought one after I borrowing my mates in Townsville's heaps, then I never used it. The is literally no room inside the trans tunnel to get to the bell housing bolts but I know know that if I loosen the engine mounts and drop the cross member I could have probably have done it with the engine in the car. Handling the trans is a mission though. I can 'just' pick it up and move it myself, so its probably around 100kgs I also had to fix a few leaks on the engine, so that was easier to do with it out anyway. I started by removing the old clutch and gerneying everything so I could see. I've had a new pilot/spigot bearing to install as well as a new slave cylinder and bearing. The rear main was leaking so had one of those to put in as well. I was going to use this oppertunity to throw in some tougher valve springs and a new timing chain but I didnt think I would make it in time so I have concentrated on the things I need to get done to run it down the strip in two weeks time. A few hots spots Changing gears should be a bit easier with a new one of these New spigot bearing New rear main Taking water pump, balancer and front timing cover off for seal replacement New slave I extended the clutch fluid 'in' fitting so the braided hose didnt have to bend on such an angle to get to the master cyclinder. I just have to get the right fitting to go into the slave on the fluid 'out' line and I will hook up a remote bleed line. It looks like an M8 x 1.25 or a common bolt thread. Quote
zed240au Posted February 5, 2012 Posted February 5, 2012 Bleed fitting is std size i got a high pressure grease line the right length and it bolted straight in then bought a replacement bleed nipple from auto spares shop and fitted that to other end of line It just lays up side of motor to about the oil pressure switch so much easier than the factory setup mick Quote
RB30X Posted February 6, 2012 Author Posted February 6, 2012 Probably boring everyone with the photos but my new clutch and lightened flywheel arrived yesterday. Even came with a new bearing for the slave and pressure plate bolts, nice. All ready to go for my next days off. Quote
PeterAllen Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 Tim, it might be a trick of the camera but the hose coming off the throttle body appears to have a smaller opening than the dia attached to the TB? As they say in Queensland, "please explain". Quote
RB30X Posted February 8, 2012 Author Posted February 8, 2012 Peter, that reduction in diameter is because my stainless intake pipe is only 3" where as the throttle body is 4". I know there would be a performance increase if I went to an OTR, which I may look into one day but my radiator may get in the road. New flywheel and clutch installed Quote
RB30X Posted February 19, 2012 Author Posted February 19, 2012 Well its all back together but I had huge issues with getting the clutch slave to bleed. I tried several techniques and went through almost 1L of brake fluid, but I ended up getting it to work by changing the travel of the master cylinder piston. For some reason there was a huge difference between the what the factory clutch and this one needed. I suppose thats part and parcel with engine conversions. I went out to the Benaraby Auto Fest today but was severley dissapointed. I had nominated for the drag racing but I found out it was only 1/8th mile and not even timed, so I wasnt happy. You couldnt even do a skid at the start to heat your tyres up so getting grip, even on the prepared drag strip was hard. There werent even that many cars there to go up against and I thought I had brought a gun to an armwrestle for a bit, until some high powered late model Dastuns showed up, also some XR6 turbos as well as some turbo'd V8 dunnydoors. I decided to at least do the practice 1/8th mile runs so I could test out my clutch and it was great. Factory pedal feel, no shuddering or noise or button like feel. You'd be hard up telling it wasnt factory. Until you do a big launch with it:) No issues there, only the next weakest link which was my Dunlop Formula R's. I was pretty much drifting 1st, 2nd and 3rd through the cones at the 1/8th mark. Because its so light though, I was still hauling some speed and dusted every single car I went up against by more than a car length. I wasnt going to hang around any longer so I headed home. Next time I'll just head out for a proper meet and get a real time. Quote
garvice Posted February 29, 2012 Posted February 29, 2012 Looks like your passenger door isn't closing properly. Or is that just a result of too much power Quote
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