L20 6 cylinder worth keeping?

[Riceburner]

Hey guys I have a 77 model 260z 2+2 jap import. It has a 2ltr 6 in it stamped L20? Anything of use in these motors, conrods, crank?

[WogsRus]

I'll have it, how much you want for it?

[acdc-5]

And then ill sell you my RB25. Everyones a winner!

[gav240z]

Hey guys I have a 77 model 260z 2+2 jap import. It has a 2ltr 6 in it stamped L20? Anything of use in these motors, conrods, crank?

 

The 77 model was probably fuel injected, as a result the L20A(E) rods (Like the L24E) are probably not what you want since these have a smaller journal from my understanding and can't be used with the L28 crank.

 

I'm sure Nzeder will know better than I since they got the L20A motor in NZ.

[Riceburner]

Not sure of the cylinder head number but it does have exhaust liners. It also had flat top su's and all the emissions junk?

[NZeder]

The 77 model was probably fuel injected, as a result the L20A(E) rods (Like the L24E) are probably not what you want since these have a smaller journal from my understanding and can't be used with the L28 crank.

 

I'm sure Nzeder will know better than I since they got the L20A motor in NZ.

No this is the engine you want for the rods. It is the post 79 L20a that have the smaller journal and little end. These L20a (as in pre 79) will have the same rods as the L24 ie 133mm centre to centre and the 9mm rod bolts.

 

The later L20a engines (usually L20eT) have the 135mm rods with the 19mm (not 21mm) little end and 51mm big end (not the normal 53mm).

 

Re the heads it will have small valves and ports = a lot of work to get them to work on a larger L6 bottom end.

[Riceburner]

I've looked very closely at the block and it says L20 not L20a (should even there be an 'a' on it)? From memory L20b four cylinder doesn't have the 'b' either??? I'm a little confused, can you dumb it down for me    What bits are worth keeping? Thanks 

[NZeder]

Correct you will not find the "a" on the block. It will just be L20-xxxxxx on the back right just below the head. The "a" and "b" are commonly used to id/tell the L6 from the L4. If you just state L20 you will get is that the 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder version blah blah....anyway you have what is know as a L20a.

 

Keep the rods at least also what diameter water pump pulley does it have? I would be interested in the water pump pulley if it is the size I am looking for

 

Regards

Mike

[luvemfast]

Hey guys I have a 77 model 260z 2+2 jap import.

Whats the plan for the car?

[WogsRus]

how much for the engine?

[Riceburner]

Ok Thanks NZeder your a wealth of knowledge! I've thrown it out, broken housing  It's just a parts car I've had for a few years, cronic rust and mountains of filler, fred flinstone would love it  It was $400 so far I've used the extractors, rally clock (with the second hand), passenger foot rest and front struts from it. Think I'll keep it for future projects.

[DatPilot]

I threw out 3 L20aet's in the last 2 years, basically the turbo version has a higher volume oil pump and the dissy shaft to suit the CAS-in-dissy type ECCS setup.

the (rubbish) O5L head and the piston combo make for a 7.5:1 comp ratio, so you can faily bag in as much boost as you like just as long as you can tune it!

 

with exhaust and intake cleanup, L20et makes 100kW at the treads

on 14psi and VG30et injectors and VG30 turbo, 130kW was made by Nick (stagefumer) in NZ

 

 

I have also seen a R30 skyline, stock ECU and injection etc, just a turbo and a 'j-pipe' no intercooler, made 110kW as is. (richen the buggery out with the afm though)

 

I think in the USA on hybridz a few guys wanted to get the L20a and some specific crank & rod combo makin 10.1:1 ratio and race balance everything for a high pitched screemer N/A engine. sounded like they were very seriious too...

 

in sayin gall that i dont know anything about the non-turb L20