nuclear_z Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 Hi Guys, Just posted this on HybridZ so will get more answers quickly... But essentially I need to fit a factory airbox (from any make) and get rid of the atmo BOV... Does anyone have pics of a turbo L series with a front mount to show me some thoughts of how to route the piping... Photos of my bay: To engineer this setup in aus I need to: 1. Get rid of the pod filter - no loss as the clown who built the system stuck it behind the radiator 2. Get rid of the atmo blow off valve - again why bother in the first place when they attract so much attention to the car? I'm not sure if its obvious but there are a couple of chromed mild steel pipes used in the system at the moment and THEY HAVE T GO!!! reason for posting, does anyone with a turbo L28 have some photos of their engine bay I can have a squiz at to get some odeas about piping??? Cheers, Thomas Quote
zedevan Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 actually, its feb 76. thats when ADR27a was introduced. everything before that can vent to atmo. remember though, you still need to comply to noise rules, so if its too loud, it can still fail. you are right though pre 73, just about anything goes. up till 02/76 there are some rules, but not many. after that, you cant vent to atmo (turbo, crankcase ect), you need a charcoal canister, PCV ect ect. taken from http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2902.45.html so u sure u need to get rid of the BOV? Quote
nizm0zed Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 yea shouldn't need to get rid of it, providing your car is pre feb76 and the BOV isn't excessivley noisy. if however, the engineer is saying so, and its a minor thing thats stopping it, better just to do it. Quote
C.A.R. Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 +1 to what the other guys have said. And unless you change to a VF IC, the pipeing layout will pretty much have to stay as is. Quote
nuclear_z Posted January 21, 2009 Author Posted January 21, 2009 ah crap... means I will have to do nasty things with the air box... The engineer has basically said that whilst BOV in general are legal, because the nasty POS that currently on the car is adjustable it will be a no no... Furthermore, he said that rising rate FPRs are a no no, because they rise. He went on to say that the RTA & EPA dont really give a S**T that factory FPR are rising rate, so I may not pass on that alone.... Quote
nat0_240_chevZ Posted January 21, 2009 Posted January 21, 2009 just do as he wants, hes the one signing off on liability so the f'g pigs can get fkd just vent the BOV back into pret turbo intake, ie airbox or pipe brfor turbo!!!, just swap it out for a factory style one or one which can have a pipe hooked up to the outlet!!! nat0 Quote
sco_aus Posted January 21, 2009 Posted January 21, 2009 As above and to add to it, bosch make a simple one you could retro fit for now very easily and plumb it back... Quote
nuclear_z Posted January 21, 2009 Author Posted January 21, 2009 I think I am going to pick up a GTR BOV and plumb it in. They are good for 18-25psi stock standard and perform really well on GTRs so my Zed should be good... I posted the same post up on HybridZ and i saw i received this photo: The piping is reversed on this one.... thoughts? obviously the outlet from the cooler running behind the radiator is a bad move for pipe temps, but it would give me more option re an airbox on the hot side... Quote
nuclear_z Posted January 22, 2009 Author Posted January 22, 2009 Well, Hybrid Z has come through and delivered me some more pictures and a solution! So, whilst it is a bad comprise I have had to choose between two evils: a long induction track from the air inlet to compressor inlet, or running the outlet pipe from the cooler behind the radiator. I think that running the pipe behind the radiator will help my terminal inlet tempretures of 65oC. I will be able to either heat wrap the pipe behind the rad or put a heat sheild on it... Quote
RBZ 260 Posted January 30, 2009 Posted January 30, 2009 here are the pics of my setup. also check my gallery for some earlier pics. i got frontal picture of the intercooler and routing positions. i know its an RB but positions for intake and turbo are in similar positions. also pod filters are not illegal in SA so i didnt worry about the air box but there is room to do soemthing if it needed. what i would do is have "idealy" intake on the intercooler to be opposite side of the output. also better for cooling performance utilises the intercooler completely. but this means custom cooler or rework on the current one. as i wanted sometghin universalish incase a frontal acc i can just buy of the shelf intercooler and replace it. unlike on yours ive fliped the pipes to be at the bottom. made the left side hole where a/c line bit bigger to fit a 2.5" pipe. not sure what size of your cooler but the 600 x 300 x 76mm just fits any bigger and need to do it differently and cut lot of things out. used 3" to 2.5" silicone 90Deg bends. the right side cooler used the existing air pick up hole. and routed it pretty much like urs behind the radiator. except ive possitioned mine as high as possible. the left air pick up hole is used for air intake as it can be seen on the pictures. hence cold air intake right infront of the grill. depending on your cooler size u could use 280zx air box tha is mounted in the front of the radiator. other than that a N12 ET pulsar or EXA turbo have a smallish metal air box. (and it says NISSAN on it ) being metal u can mod it easier to suit your application. as for blow me valve. yeah use GTR or R32 R33 plumb back good for 1bar at least. other than that use HKS super sequential with plum back adaptor or any other aftermarket with plum back option. got that on my s14 still quite noticable (not over 90dB) but fairly loud and legal cant beat hks for quality. Quote
nuclear_z Posted February 2, 2009 Author Posted February 2, 2009 I have come up with a new solution I will run the hot pipe out the same side of the car, underneath the intercooler (in front of the radiator support panel) then up and into the cooler... I think it is an eloquent solution to the hot pipe which allows me to retain the very short cold pipe.... As far as the airbox goes, I will run the inlet underneath the radiator level (in front of the engine) and into the air box... It will have a cold air intake through the holes on the other side of the radiator support panel.... And this will be the cheapest option to fabricate which is even better... I am now just wondering, should I make the pipes myself out of mild steel and have them ceramic coated, or pay someone to fab them out of aluminium...? Not sure, the ally is probably the best option, but I am looking at some serious dollars Quote
nizm0zed Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 ok, if thats the plan, have you considered getting the LH end tank cut off, and turned upside down? then get a 90 degree end welded onto it. from there, your pipe goes straight under it. bit more work, but a lot cleaner, and a lot more compact. Quote
zzzzed Posted February 2, 2009 Posted February 2, 2009 or you can get an intercooler with inlet and outlet on the same side Quote
nuclear_z Posted February 2, 2009 Author Posted February 2, 2009 ok, if thats the plan, have you considered getting the LH end tank cut off, and turned upside down? then get a 90 degree end welded onto it. from there, your pipe goes straight under it. bit more work, but a lot cleaner, and a lot more compact. Absolutely! I plan on having the end 90 degree bend cut and rotated to point downwards and run a pipe from there. or you can get an intercooler with inlet and outlet on the same side Thought about that, but I have never liked the look of same end ouleted tanks. Plus, that would be a considerably more expensive option at this stage... cutting and welding a pipe that I already have is relatively cheap and easy... What are peoples thoughts on JetHot (ceramic) coated mild steel cooler piping? I wouldnt have the rust issues and it might be better for transfer of heat... But is the longevity there? Quote
Zeddophile Posted February 3, 2009 Posted February 3, 2009 What are peoples thoughts on JetHot (ceramic) coated mild steel cooler piping? I wouldnt have the rust issues and it might be better for transfer of heat... But is the longevity there? Ceramic coating definitely seems to last well on exhaust manifolds, even on race cars (know of a couple of exhausts that were done probably close to 10 years ago). I think on something a bit cooler like an intercooler pipe it should last forever, my only concern would be whether it will cure properly.... I know when my exhaust manifolds came back there was a fairly involved note to do with first startups, and ensuring that the car was not running lean during this period to ensure temperatures were correct for the final curing of the coating. Perhaps that's a question for the coater, maybe they do it a little differently for an intercooler pipe. Quote
nuclear_z Posted February 3, 2009 Author Posted February 3, 2009 sweet... I will give jet hot a call today and get their thoughts... I have done the run around and gotten two quotes for ally piping, one $500 (labour only) and the other $600-800 labour only... So I am still looking at another $200 odd in pipe bends and straights to have it sorted... I tossed up figuring out the bends, then using straight pipe with lots of silcone pipe bends, but it'd end up looking shit and giving me heaps more joints that could potentially blow off! So, I will work out the bends, use mild steel mandral bends and straight pipe to joint the bastard together... Hopefully get away with only a few silcone joints... Jet Hot isnt that expensive... Should be a couple of hundred for the coating - still way in front of the labour cost for ally... Quote
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