76 260Z 2+2

[2+2er]

Hi All, brought this one off ebay a few months back and hope to have it back on the road before Xmas with the end goal to compete in Targa Tasmania (2011).

 

Its missing loads of bits that have been lost during the last few owners failed attempts at reserection and the 2+2 seams to be more difficult to source parts and information than the 2 seater.

 

I'll try and fill in some of the blanks that left out of most forums and workshop manuals as I come across them and welcome all advice solving some of 2+2 mysteries.

 

So far I have not been able to locate an accurate wiring diagram for this one, the closest is for an injected model but wire colors differ a little.

 

The tail shafts are longer than the 260Z and 280ZX measuring 86.5 cm from the center of each uni and I'm pretty sure manual and auto are the same.

 

It has a L28 with carbs ATM and I'm currently trying to correct the butchered engine bay wiring that replaces the volt regulator with the self regulated alternator.

 

I have read all post on this topic but it still won't charge when fed power from the charge light but will if its direct from the Battery. Has anyone done this on a 2+2 before?

[stevo_gj]

Congratulations on the purchase mate,

 

As far as the 2+2 being harder to source parts for, I always thought it was the other way around. I am no expert however but I would assume that a lot of the 2 seater info would carry over to the 2+2.

 

Anyway, hows the body/paint condition? It looks alright from the photos.

 

Good luck with the resto!

[RBZ 260]

do you have the nissan factory service manual and not the haynes?

 

if not get original one.has wiring diagrams for 240z 260z and 260z 2+2. i didnt go through it to check if it matches exactly to the car (as i got rid of the factory wiring so didnt check besides the indicator stalk and wiper stalk wiring as i was adapting it to R32 skyline wiring) but it does include all the options available on all markets. ie seatbelt, warning low fuel etc....

 

if u downloaded the wiring most prob will suit US and Canada. but mostly should be identical. minus the extra options.

 

 

 

 

[Brabham]

FActory manual is pretty good. 2+2s are far easier and cheaper to get parts than 2 seaters as 2 seaters are more desirable and more pricey. I saw that one on ebay too, it had a respray done on it didn't it? Paint looks immaculate. If I could undo everything the PO did to my car it would be running by now

[2+2er]

Yeah the respray is pretty good but there is some reaction to the primer (I'm guessing) on the bonnet and a the top of the hatch has a few bubbles forming. I have cleaned up the internal rust in the driver side which was mostly just surface rust and the rest of the inside is in very good nick as far as rust goes.

 

Will do a full clean out inside when the roll cage goes in but that could be a while away yet. The drivers side chassis rail has a 4 cm section rusted out from being dented often and will need to be wielded up. and thats about it.

 

The Haynes manual is very vague and I've down loaded a few variations of wiring looms but not that match all that well. Have ended up getting familiar with the old multi meter and test light to solve some of the gremlins.

 

I now have most of the Nissan factory manual that has helped lots (thanks for the tip rbz 260).

[reverendzed]

In regard to your paint you may find that when they resprayed they didn't prepare well enough.  what often happens is that people sand the paint without getting to the substrate,(either because they don't know any better or are paying for a cheap job!) they simply look to get a nice smooth feel before priming and topcoating. However if the paint is breaking down at any point on the panel the whole surface can be compromised.  If the paint is metallic my guess would be that the previous paint had oxidised and probably had 'crows feet' in it that can be covered for a while with new paint but doesn't take long to return.  the only cure for those panels that are breaking down is to take it back to bare metal and then build your paint structure from there, only then do you end up with a finish that will last.  Take the time to have a really good look for any other little bubbles or imperfections that could be rust lurking underneath, better to get it now than to keep going back to the panel shop. 

I look forward to seeing the progress.

Rev.

[2+2er]

as I have been replacing parts and trying to fill in the blanks where previous owners have removed and lost various parts, i noticed it was hard to find good pictures for reference so I have labeled a bunch of shots below for any one facing similar issues.

[Sirpent]

Hi

 

If you still need the wiring diagram, I have the Nissan factory diagram in partial color, PM me if you want it sent in PDF to you via email.

 

Cheers

 

John

[sexual_sushi]

nice work on the su's did you just use wet and dry or a buffing wheel or dremmel or all of the above?

 

just to further the 2+2 parts debate from october... the 2+2's are definitely easier to get used parts for them as they are more common in Australia. To get new parts however is the exact opposite. As an example you can get brand new 2 seater 1/4panel badges for about $50us whereas the 2 seater badges are about $200us. It's very similar with the internal trim as well. This is partly because they remade a lot of the parts for the 2 seaters when Nissan where doing their factory refresh on the zeds in the states.

 

Anyway good luck with the car and keep posting pictures.... we love pictures

[2+2er]

Thanks Sexual_sushi,

 

I used a dremmel with a semi-fine sand paper bit on the rough stuff and autosole on the rest with buffing bit and a rag.

 

Its true that you can find 2+2 parts cars more easily but no commercial guys I've found will hang onto the parts that don't interchange with the 260Z and 240Z.

 

I don't know if any one else has had this problem but for the life of my I could not find a hazard switch. I had to combine the switch out of a 280C and the plug from a 120Y to make the one you see in the attached pics.

 

[Lynton]

Basically the 2+2 260Z became very popular in Australia from 1974/5 and outsold 2 seaters from 1976 only a nominal number of 2+2's were sold in the US so low volume makes reproduction bits hard to get and Australia seems to be the only country with a plentiful but a quickly dwindling supply of 2+2's Lynton

[.]

Hazard swich.....um yeah did have a bit of an issue there.....my hazard swich = push indicator left, pause, push indicator right, pause, repeat until safe