WTB Original 240Z Shift arm

[240Z_au]

Looking for this:

 

Anyone has one laying around?

 

Thank you.

[dat2kman]

Thats a later B type box shifter stick, very common.

The 240z sticks were straight, and had a double rubber bush at bottom, held tight with a nut.

[240Z_au]

Thanks..You are a fountain of knowledge!..I have a Silvia box on my red 240, but I don't like the thick shift at the base and want to have what I did in my 1st Zed back in the 80's. There is something nostalgic about this shifter shape. Before you tell me, I know, I need to re fabricate to fit Silvia box, happy to do that..Perhaps I shoudl be looking at a S14 shifter that suits with a similar shape?..Any leads out there?

 

Just want to get rid of that stubby base and ad a little length...I know its lurking there under my leather shroud which incidentally doesn't sit right with that much meat at base. Yet another 1st world problem to overcome

[C.A.R.]

Thanks..You are a fountain of knowledge!..I have a Silvia box on my red 240, but I don't like the thick shift at the base and want to have what I did in my 1st Zed back in the 80's. There is something nostalgic about this shifter shape. Before you tell me, I know, I need to re fabricate to fit Silvia box, happy to do that..Perhaps I shoudl be looking at a S14 shifter that suits with a similar shape?..Any leads out there?

 

Just want to get rid of that stubby base and ad a little length...I know its lurking there under my leather shroud which incidentally doesn't sit right with that much meat at base. Yet another 1st world problem to overcome

 

Send me your shifter & I'll hotrod it for you

 

http://www.build-threads.com/project-510/project-510-short-shifting/

[mossy]

Nice, might have to get this done to my 71c shifter.

[Riceburner]

Yeah, me three Mossy!

 

I think it's just the RB20 & RB20det boxes that have the one large odd ball bolt in the shifter cover.

[dat2kman]

You need a donor shifter stick from any B type box.

Hard bit is seperating the big diam rubber insulated shifter from its stub, on the s13/rb type boxes.

 

Once done, drill a short hole into center of the sr/rb stub, then measure the length f the B stick in comparison, at the stub of the rb/sr, cut the old style stick, then machine the cut end ( lathe) into a spigot, that is a reasonable push fit into the hole in end of stub.

Bit f chamfering, and eitheer silver solder, or tig up the joint

Clean up, reshape new grafted stick, done.

The male spigot/female hole, gives that little bit more strength and support, compared to a pure chamfered butt weld.

[C.A.R.]

I don't agree with that Jason.

 

A small dia. press fitted spigot in an already small dia. shaft will not have any real benefit over a joint that's been beveled and CORRECTLY welded.

What you are inducing with a spigoted end fit, is a point inside the shaft that is not permanently locked together (even after welding the outside) that can eventually create a

fisher crack from the inside-out, due to flex in the shaft from shifting.

 

Simply by cutting a generous chamfer into the shaft, welding it with the TIG so as to get full penetration to the core of the shaft with a generous weld pool,

is more that enough to give the shifter adequate strength.

I've performed that modification numerous times now without a failure - including my own Zed.

 

It's a really neat, simple conversion that has a dramatic effect on the way Zed drives

 

 

Once done, drill a short hole into center of the sr/rb stub, then measure the length f the B stick in comparison, at the stub of the rb/sr, cut the old style stick, then machine the cut end ( lathe) into a spigot, that is a reasonable push fit into the hole in end of stub.

Bit f chamfering, and eitheer silver solder, or tig up the joint

Clean up, reshape new grafted stick, done.

The male spigot/female hole, gives that little bit more strength and support, compared to a pure chamfered butt weld.