RichyRich

Well, some good progress: Front suspension, steering rack, cross member all removed. Rear suspension, diff, hand brake out. (Diff+remaining suspension all came out very easy, guessed the right spot for the jack, which was good because Wick Humble says have a strong helper and all I have is a Cavoodle and a Maltese Shih Tzu, neither with opposing thumbs). Just fuel lines, rear wheel brake lines to remove, simple but pesky grime covered bolts and screws. Think I'll take it too Northern Soda blast in Ringwood for blasting and priming (2k PPG urethane epoxy). Going to visit Saturday and have them blast the hatch first to test them out. Also did a bit of unpicking spot welds, using a combination of 3/8th in drill bit (possibly bigger than needed 🤔) and hand chisel (and need to get an pneumatic chisel (keep forgetting I now own a compressor... 🤷😆). Oh. And also bought a second hand rotisserie. Wife approved, but maybe there was a misunderstanding?? 🤔🤔🤔😆Paid $900 for 1800kg capacity. Could buy a 900kg item brand new for $880, but expect to transport on the rotisserie because the blaster doesn't have one, so decided the extra strength was worth $20.

And here's the pictures of the remaining repairs:

Ok, some pictures of where we're starting from. This was @Linton's second car, that he'd started before his tragic accident. I realise now how much work he'd done. The roof has the worst surface rust, though a few spots on the bonnet might be worse. I think the roof is salvageable, based on no experience but just wishful thinking! 😎 Linton fixed some front end damage to both guards. Fitted a new radiator support panel. Made and installed new rust cuts under the battery, and to the LH side of the firewall. Repaired rust around the top of both taillights and the "slam" panel. (I'd call it the hatch sill?) He also did some repairs to the LH chassis rail, but unlike the other repairs which were highly documented I don't have any pictures of that apart from the very initial condition. So I'm not really sure how deep that repair went. Still to do: LH sill and bottom of the A pillar. RH bottom of the A pillar. RH rear of the door, and the RH dog leg. RH front of the door. Two spots on the LH door where I think a chrome trim strip was attached. Dodgy fibreglass repair to correct on the bottom of the LH guard. And the bottom of the support panel inside it no longer exists. Plus what I haven't found yet. I don't think the radiator support panel is parallel with the firewall. Not sure how or why, but we might have to install the bonnet to see what the alignment is actually like. So, that's the fun that awaits. Not sure what we can do ourselves, mig welding sheet metal is new. Ideally we'd practise on offcuts first, and non visible parts of the car. But next: media blast the whole thing and 2k epoxy is the guidance we've received. Cheers, Richard

Experiments in dealing with rust coming up. Chemical rust removal, chemical rust conversion (iron phosphate and zinc phosphate) and mechanical removal. Start with small less rusted parts. Any tips appreciated! Supplies and advice came from Milsome's Auto paints in Ferntree Gully, they seemed very good.

AI can be hit and miss. I asked AI the length of the Z car bonnet, it said 2.4m. Ah, that’s the car length. Now it says 1.6m. I think it’s closer to 1.4. I’d assume you have some packages of hardware bolts, just try some and see what it is. Or take the handle to Bunnings and find some loose bolts to test. Actually, on mine, it looked like a pin was used, so AI is wrong again about it being a screw. Some probably are, but not all, I suspect.

Yeah neither of my shifters has them. I’d buy new anyway if I was you….

Thanks! Despite people saying the bumper mounts were too high, the pics of rotisseries did suggest they were actually too low!

Hi, looking for a rotisserie, ideally 2nd hand (in Melb / Vic), but also tempted to build. Some people have used two engine stands, but they're too low so need modifying. They do need to be connected together. Trick will be getting the correct pivot height, so its easy to turn and will stay in any angle without excessive locking. Two people have both said the bumper mounts are too high and the car is bottom heavy. But if that changes between US and AUS, or 240-260-280 I'm not sure. Commercial items: This one is said to rotate very easily: was sold on this forum a few years ago (Peter Allen) DIY: DIY with adjustable point of rotation: This person used two vertical pipes that are on each end are held by u-bolts through the engine stand. So the car can be raised or lowered to get it to the proper balance point. (car is sideways in the pic) They say "the car is very neutral and can easily be spun with one hand. You can use the pin on the engine stand to hold the car in any orientation. When I go to set it down on it's wheels, I can loosen the u-bolts and slide it down until it is close to the ground". So, anyone have one for sale? Or any experience building one? I like the idea of one that can be adjusted to find the C of G. Cheers, Richard

I'll have a look tomorrow (aren't at the location of my car until then). I know I have two auto shifters, and I going to convert to a manual. But you know what they look like.. A nut and bolt store might be the go. Mine could be quite rusty..

(Ok, not sure why it won’t let me add my text..) Possibly how long is a piece of string, but can I ask here what would be a typical price for that process, assuming the car is “roll in” ready? Though it will be years before we are in that situation. Cheers….

Thanks very much! The engine in an L26, but not matching number. It’s been “rebuilt” and I think doesn’t involve any modifications. So it’s a completely standard L26. I intend to run extractors, not the standard exhaust, but at this stage have no modifications planned for the engine itself, and the only mods are the intake, webbers, and exhaust. But a different cam shaft might make those modifications a lot more beneficial, so perhaps we’ll change the cam. I’m pretty comfortable doing engine and mechanical work. I did read some threads here on webbers, and the debate of 40 vs 45s. I’m inclined towards the 45s. But it will be a few years before the engine gets installed. Also curious what people think is the best surface treatment for the cars underside when repainted. Some chassis you see painted on the bottom identical to everywhere else. Others have some sort of black coating, perhaps sound deadening, or rust prevention? Keen to make sure the car has good noise, vibration, and handling qualities, because those aspects give a car a feeling of value.

Thanks! Some very useful tips there. The Subaru AC is my own idea. The daily is an outback and I like the system in it. I think it might be feasible to install into a Z. The think the hardest parts would be fabricating brackets, mounting, ducts under the dash, and if the heater core, AC core, blower would fit even with those adaptions. Then, wiring for the control module. It would be really nice to have a thermostat controlled heater / AC, with electronic controls not cables on sliders. Looking at generic aftermarket units, they’re not designed for a Z either, judging by comments in this forum. Why pay $3k for new parts for a system that doesn’t fit, when I can get all the bits secondhand from a wrecker for likely a lot less, that maybe doesn’t fit any worse? We shall experiment and explore…. Cheers!

Yep... did cross my mind it could feel like asking how long. But..for whatever plans someone had, if they really regretted not doing something, or nearly didn't do something and are so glad they did... they would be very aware. They mights just not end up being relevant for my plans. Which are still evolving.But they essentially involve: L26 engine Tripple Webbers 5 speed manual box (don't know what options exist) Subaru A/C system Possibly a body kit (flares, side skirts, air dam, haven't seen a spoiler I like yet.) Possible after market front suspension to eliminate rumour of bump steer Thanks very much for the link, info on the fuse box. They sound good. I'm planning to assemble the entire electrical system by itself, as much as possible, on the garage floor, all switches, gauges, lights, electrical components, and verify it works. I definitely have a few rat chewed wires. Insulation must taste nice.

So, just starting out with the restoration of our newly purchased RS30. And, while I have some plans for what we’re going to do, I’m curious to learn from others, in particular I’m wondering what mods or restoration steps that in hindsight you wished you done, but didn’t. Maybe like, using new wiring looms than dealing with an old and potentially unreliable and possibly damaged loom, that once is installed isn’t so easy to take out and replace. Or, maybe there are a few specific things you did do, and are very glad you did. Just trying to avoid the same mistakes, or repeat the same good ideas!! Cheers, Richard

Well. Stopped thinking about buying a Zed and actually did. You might recognise this from the classifieds, it is Linton’s second car he was in the process of working on, after the orange 2+2 he splendidly restored. AKA known as “the Ratson” because it previously came with free rats. 🐀🐀🐀🐀 RS30-00981 260Z 2 seater It will take a while, and be very much one step at a time. We’re competent with mechanical things, can get by on electrical bits and pieces, but welding, body work, sheet metal fabrication, and spray painting we will be learning as we go! Plan is an L26, manual, with some upgrades such as triple webbers, disc brake rear end, and maybe a Subaru A/C system. Yellow, with perhaps a body kit. So after lurking around here for a while now, we’re no longer an imposter because we actually own a Z car! Our second Datsun after the 1600. Cheers, Richard

1974 260Z tarmac rally car RS30-001049 $38k https://www.my105.com/search/details/1974-datsun-260z-rally-car/15d332ff-519c-436f-b61e-a767b37040cf?source=SEARCH_RESULT 1971 240z Rolling shell build no 1561, $11k, sold (nice dash!!) https://www.my105.com/search/details/1971-datsun-240z-s30-shell/97cffddb-cb34-4fd1-8c8e-104eb276994f?source=SEARCH_RESULT 1973 240z $59.9k https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/802898422754548/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A545b2a98-9789-4092-a11e-38d4a71aed48

Given you paid to have it restored (which I assume was the bore only because the outside looks unrestored), I’d take it back, tell them what’s happened, and see what they say. Worst case, they don’t accept any responsibility, and you either have to pay them again / more, take it somewhere else, or do it yourself. But, at least it gives a chance they might fix it under some sort of warranty, or provide some explanation that might help decide the way forward. It would cost nothing to take back to see what they say…so nothing to loose, really.

So, guessing it didn’t go for $11k, mind indicating what it did sell for….helps buyers and sellers. But also understand if you don’t want to…. Cheers!

Nice. How did you find that, was it advertised somewhere? Obviously been there a long time, so protected from water a long time. Always bemused by people who put cars under trees with tarps because they think the sun is damaging but don’t realise how much moisture they’re trapping in.

Love your under bonnet graphic. I’ve already chosen a pic of Deborah Harry. 70s icon for a 70s car. 😎 But I really should buy a car first… 🤣

Are the fans running at the correct rpm? If it’s much too high, any imbalance will be magnified. The force caused by imbalance is a function of the unbalance mass x rpm^2. So any error in the rpm has a magnified effect because that term is squared. So is the voltage being supplied to the fan motor when on correct? Just an idea based on theory.

Hey, just thinking, have a rolling shell I’m interested in purchasing, but wondering how one might check it for structural rust, especially the chassis rails. Crawl underneath and tap with a hammer? Poke at suspect spots with a screw driver? (Assuming the seller lets you). Do the rails rust from the inside (not sure how water gets in) or from the outside? What / where else would you check a shell, apart from visibly obvious? Datum measurements, maybe, or is that a bit unrealistic. Don’t want to spend $10, $15k on a shell then find in first two weeks of owning it’s only good for panels and off cuts. Cheers, Richard

At least you know the rear bumper is well attached… I need a shed the size of yours.

Thanks. I made the call this car was way to far gone for me. It was for sale on gumtree about a month ago, in Adelaide. HS30-00231. I can’t remember exactly but he was asking $12 or 14k. I didn’t buy it.