aircobra

in the progress of rebuilding my calipers and have split them apart, but can't remove the pistons i just want to get them out to have a look at the condition of the bores to see if they're worth rebuilding does anyone know how to get them out? compressed air does not do the trick for me or maybe recommend a good place in south that can do it for me

i don't have the engineering setup for that, so i officially need help while i was taking out the shocks from the struts, i realised that the bushes must be seized onto the spindle since they arms don't even pivot properly, just sort of flop around with a limited amount of movement i'm reluctant to take to my local mechanic since he only has a standard shop press any suggestions pls?

Hi, Its almost time to the deed - I need a "classic" sanblaster for my suspension, heater bix and various brackets and the "media" eg bead, garnet,etc for the body. Ideally, one place can do both Not keen on the soda story Condition not too bad except for a couple of areas, and all the undersealer and sound deadner still on The car's sitting on a wheeled pallet, they may be able to just jack it up for the blast session - or they may be fussy and want a high stand or a rotisorie. Let me know Thank you

i dont have one on my car - where is it supposed to be?

so we never got this plate? http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m3NfKR6jsZ3vOJcJS97_tmg.jpg what's the meaning of "mtaching numbers" then?

finished the total bastard of a job 1. the pins come out with some hammering and soaking wth RP7 o/night 2. unlike ... the front pivot bolt, which i had to grind thru and part of it is still stuck in the bush 3. and long suspension bolt (the one held in by th famous oin) on the left side. the right one came out ok, this one will no budge a milimiter. i'm going to take the whole assembly to w.shop with a massive press, i think. looks like there are other bushes that need to be pressed out any way tomorrow the massive 25 mm nuts PS. any recommended sanblasters in SE area?

according to this site. there should be a couple of numbers on the car http://www.xenons30.com/VIN.html and a couple of searchanble registries http://www.editgrid.com/user/mlwilliams/Z_Car_Registry http://www.zhome.com/ Z Car register, members cars. What is your VIN? but they don;t seem to work all i have is the firewall # and aluminum compliance plate on the front right shock tower didn't know where to post this question

that's pretty much the parts i'm thinking of grabbing to replace the rusted out, beyond repair sections, just wanted to check with the pros thank you

one more ( more of a captain obvious) diff floorpans and seat mounts, but joined to the inner sill and front/back identically

i have picked up some 260 bits and have trawled the next ( and most of this forum) looking for the differences and these are my myths in addition to the what is already out there eg points abouts, trims, seats, bumpers, engine i'm mostly interested in body/suspension only the question concerns aussie spec '77 260, which i think comprises some bits from US 280, but with an L26 ( not sure on that one) so, get your hot chocolate and ready to go 1. the door hinge holes on the A pillar base are round, whereas on 240 (71), they are oval (for adjustment). otherwise identical (true/false) 2. the tunnel is much wider, but the base porfile at the firewall and tunnel joins (about 30 cm from the tool boxes) are identical 3. seat belt mounts are different locations ( i'm not sure cause my car came with drivers belt diffetent to passenger) and some suspect looking fittings. pretty sure that there's mount in the inner sill. ithink that 71 was the year before retractable belts 4. the pattern for the stamping on the boot floor are different 5. different fuel filler pipe ( rubber vs metal) 6. one more hole in the boot pipe for some vent pipe on the 260 7. different mount for rear bumper, but that's just the bracket on the end of the channel 8. higher rear shock tower with additional reinforcing at top and on the innder panel on th 260 , but the inner wheel arch identical 9. diff door latch ( on body) 10. different size/profile/slope to the door jamb (i've eyballed and can't see any difference), so it seems to me that if you swap the latch, you can physically put a 260 door ion a 240, even if the door frame and internals are different) that's all for now, i can post for any specifics ... like i sadi, one for the guns

kirby, which kit comes with the secret pin? i have only seen complete rubber bushing sets for the whole suspension

i've removed the rear suspension for sandblasting http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx bscailly i need to remove #58, but i can't work if pin #65 is holding it in place. taking off the nut reveals some sort of a bolt, but there's no head on it. Am I supposed to press it out from undeneath? can't tell as the whole assembly is very rusty

it looks like the air intake for the heater. has anyone taken this part and knows what's supposed to be on the top from factory? looks like someone just cut a piece from roofing iron

what's supposed to be here loosk like ites been patched

Today's update Have almost finished the stripping. thanks to lurch and rob for all the advice so far about to start taking out the supsension and put onto car stands, ready to rip the inner and outer sills

If you're wrecking your 2+2, I need the radiator support panel rear tailight panel seat rails If you're in Vic , I will drill them out myself or if you're interstate, I will pay extra Rust free or surface only pls Let me know what you have

#5 and #6 here http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Body240Z/BodySidePanelSillBody/tabid/1758/Default.aspx and #1, #2

Can you copy a small panel if i send it to you?

just PM me, will order in about a week

Frames OK, have mechanism and window frames My frame is totally gone on the front top section where it attaches to the hinges

do you sell the panels already made up?

Since my z has serious rust probs and has already had the floors swapped a couple of times, I just want to confirm something before I go and order the parts Rails #1 - this starts at the bumper bar and run through to the firewall, supporting the engine That's them http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240Z-Frame-Rails[inner].jpg Rails # 2- these are sold with the floor kits here http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240Z-Floor-70-74[2].jpg they run to the end of the floor plan Rails #3 - go from the ned of the pan and up to the rear suspension http://baddogparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_4&products_id=2 you can see them installed here Problem is I can't see if #3 was even there?

Sorry, posted in the wrong section of the forum Does anyone in Melb have a rotisserie that they're no longer using that they can sell/lend me ? If not, where do I get the square sections from at a good price - i might give it a go with the 2 x engine stands Also, is a 140 Amps mig enough to weld it all up?

Hi, Does anyone in Melb have a rotisserie that they're no longer using that they can sell/lend me ? If not, where do I get the square sections from at a good price - i might give it a go with the 2 x engine stands Also, is a 140 Amps mig enough to weld it all up?

whos warren?