DOOM

I'm sorry but what does 'remove the gallery' exactly mean? I know what one is, but where is the one that needs to be removed in relation to the new dipstick and pickup location? Do I need to fill it up, or block off? Obviously there is more work than a simple sump swap and oil pickup extension.

No I haven't forgotten, I just can't bloody get a front sump.

I'm going to stay away from stroker's, too much money no denying the power. So really I should be paying attention to valve train, I've been reading up a lot on these engines and I have been told that the power is in the head. I might stay away from any head porting/reshaping to keep costs down (and P plates). Is it true that I need to replace rocker arms when changing cams? Zedman what are the parts PMC swears by?

Alright big cam and flattops it is.

I’m hoping to make a mild street L28 with an N42/N42 head and block combination taking advantage of the 400cc for a wider powerband with added torque. Also trying to keep parts costs down using as many stock parts as possible and assembling it myself. Using flattop pistons instead of the dished ones to up the comp ratio, as the block has minimal bore wear they will remain 86mm, bores receiving a hone. However the block deck does require a shave creating an issue of keeping the dynamic compression ratio (DCR) and static compression ratio (SCR) within usable street ratios along with quench distance. Playing around with various engine calculators (AtlanticZ, OZDat and Wallace Racing DCR calculator) I found the 2.0mm Kameari headgasket (90.5mm bore) will help keep compression manageable, 9.1 SCR and 7.9 DCR respectively on a stock block deck height, but the deck needs to shaved. I am not certain how much the block deck will need to be shaved; estimating a 0.5mm shave this increases both compression ratios and lowers the quench distance by removing deck height. So should invest in a cam with a later intake close (to lower DCR (a mild kit from here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12e03/10-2000 )) or is there another way around this? I’ve read of others using the same combination with good success staying away from detonation. I’d be looking to get machining done at Chris Milton engines in SA. Also the engine had not been opened before, still retaining standard main journal and crank pin journal bearings. The crank journals were in as new condition. A head bolt did snap off due being rusted in the deck, with serious rust build up around it necessitating the head shave. For fuel delivery I’m aiming to use triple Webers/Minkunis/Solexes. This is my first engine build, yes this is my second topic in a week. Use engine building terminology if I don’t understand it I’ll google it. I own ‘How to Modify’ and ‘How to Rebuild’ by Honsowetz and Monroe. Any tips/help is appreciated a lot.

Thanks for help, turns out I didn't know left from right. The locknuts are still on very tight though.

Thanks for the advice, I'll try everything.

The locknut is the 14mm nut right? Both the 17mm and the 14mm won't move but some of the nuts are rounded and are starting to with the open enders.

I have taken the head off my L28 in order to disassemble it. The issue is I can't move the adjusters for the life of me, like then have lock-tight on. The cam towers along with the cam are still in and I'm trying to remove the rocker arms that are not under load of the cam, rocker arm lash springs have been removed. Should I remove the towers and the cam at once and then remove the rocker arms? For reference I'm going by the How to disassemble your Nissan/Datsun L series book.

Good times where had.

Welcome, your not the only one with an old Skyline. Lots of good info about L series engine, differentials and the like. Older Skylines are few and far between.

So some updates since that post. The manual conversion was completed, using a 280ZX box (with 120y shifter), 225mm flywheel, Datsport providing Nissan Urvan Clutch and master/slave cylinders. this took two weeks in October Hover mode. Many thanks to the oldman for helping. L28E has been purchased to be rebuilt by me.

Roberto I have 3 free seats.

Thriller, that really sucks. Just keep grinding till you get your dream I guess.

Should be there, with the C210.

Despite that major downfall of the headgasket because they weren't torqued properly at the factory. Once torque correctly and built the 7M's can make secent horsepower. It's that fact toyota forgot to torque them, that have made them been seen as boat anchors.

Thats a Datsun Skyline C210 4 door (yes they where called Skylines), next to the Zed. The C110 was the Datsun 240k.

"Rare and desirable 3 speed automatic"

Thanks Roberto! Not sure if I should post these here.

I'd be interested, am I elegiable with an L series powered car?

Did you have the white zed two-seater with the sun roof, is it still going. I think it's you who used to frequent Torrens RD till recently. I could be wrong.

I'd be interested in the engine.

Thanks for the advice and help guys very much appericated. The reason for the 225mm choice I guess is just to get the bloody car on the road, I think we may have one loacated. When I build a more hotted up engine (I still have the single carb with 400,000Km on it) I'll get my hands on a 200mm flywheel. IT'S OK GOT ONE!

After some googling and research the 225mm seems to be the right way to go. So does anyone have a 225mm flywheel for sale?

Thanks for that, the other issue (if I wasn't clear) is that I'm not really sure which one I need. I have a C210 as you know with an L24 auto trans on it. I'll check the workshop manual but I don't it has sizes.