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Everything posted by Gordo

  1. Hey Cozza I’ll answer your question soon. With the tune done buy local guys MPC . Good heathy horse power was made. Top Secret . Lol. Was good to get it home . I’d only driven the car up and down the drive way. Only to second gear. The clutch felt good. Could notice the torque of the motor when it would just idle up onto the trailer. Anyway got it back home and put it back on the hoist for a look over. Could see what appears to be a slight rear main oil leak, but very minor. The headers had started to melt some of my plastic coverings around the wiring. So this was rectified with heat piping . Radiator held up ok ,no water in the over flow. So with a good going over we are ready for a track day.
  2. Dave, you need a spare car that can get wet.
  3. The tuner will be confused. Photo just for a joke.
  4. Wiring done as best we can. thurmo fans come on at 95deg. the tacko needs to be changed to suit the v8. was quoted $245 to convert the old one. So i think ill buy an after market one. On first start up the motor would not idle on its own. The new computer will need some programing to sort all this out. But at least it goes. So ive got it booked in for a dyno tune and if everything goes all right Ill do the next track day for a shake down.
  5. With the exhaust complete it was time to tidy up all things under the car. Clutch , fuel and brake hoses all got some attention. The peddle box was put back in and brake and clutch bleed. Fuel pump wired up and tested. The engine sensors where hard to fit as the headers are very close. I got my self a oil catch can and fittings.i would be using the same alloy radiator with the inlet and outlets in the right place. Got some new hoses. The air intake bends filter and pipes from eBay . With most of the engine bay done it was time to take it to my mate for the wiring loom and final fuel line connections to be fitted.
  6. Haha. It may be done. My updates are a little behind so I’ll try and catch up when time permits. the exhaust had to have a balance pipe and also be quite enough to get under the 75db noise limits. I could not believe how low the twin 3in exaust was. Tried to get it as high as I could. Even went to 2 1/2in just before the diff.
  7. With the clutch not disengaging ive tryed a bigger master cylinder still not working. gearbox out found the slave cylinder was the right one for this engine gearbox combo, but not a twin plate clutch. the through out bearing needs to be shorter for the thicker twin plate clutch. back to the brake place and another through out bearing. after a bit more measuring and checking i put it all back in . finally we have a clutch. exaust was next on the list
  8. Picked up the tail shaft. The guy made up a billet adaptor to replace the stock donut. Theres also a slip join fo movement. Got some new high tensile bolts, fingers crossed they hold . With the tail shaft in I was checking the drive line. Seams that the clutch is not disengaging. That’s not good. I’ll bleed it some more tomorrow. Master cylinder could be to small, or I may have put the twin plate clutch in wrong. looking at the photos clutch looks ok, Might be a gearbox out job.
  9. The gearbox mount was made out of hoop iron to get a template. Then 5mm x75mm flat bar bent into shape. Bolted into the chassis rails and welded tabs with more bolts through the tunnel. Into and through reinforced plating. note the temporary gearbox support
  10. Putting the engine and gear box in was a bit of work. Was trying to support the rear of the gearbox to get the right angle to bolt or at least seat the engine mounts . This was in and out a few times as I had to cut the hole bigger to allow for the shifter to fit. So settling on the gear box height (as high as I could get it ) I was able to hold or support it with a pice of timber decking.lol. Some may not know but the steering imput shaft goes between the primary’s. Two on one side and two on the other. So positioning the engine back and forth deminishes the clearance because of the angle. That left me to fit the headers and position the engine according the the headers clearance. The header would not just drop in and bolt up. The engine had to be lifted about 100mm the guide the headers in. So the gear box was hard to support through out this proses. Anyway finally found the best position and used a string line to measure center line for gearbox. With this sorted I’ve measured and ordered my tail shaft. And made up my gearbox mount.
  11. Hey Dave, the guy who got me the throddel peddle that suits the flyby wire is getting the wireing loom for me.
  12. With the engine set up on the trolleys I wanted to get as many accessories fitted to the motor I could. Needed the pulley belt to suit the under Drive pulley and a pulley to replace where the power steer pump would mount. I have electric steer. Powder coated the rocker covers. And coil pack brackets.had a new clutch line made with the push on fitting to suit the slave cylinder. The engine knock sensors where hard to fit in behind the headers. I had to put one near the engine mount . Next is to trial fit the engine and gear box. pics of Engine mounts from Dirty Dingo
  13. Yes the motor goes back into the red 240z from which it came from. Mick sent the exhaust headers, sump kit and the engine mounts over. So I’m setting the hole lot up on to small trolley tabes so it’s easy to move around. When I pulled the L28 out complete with gearbox,headers, and Carbys the weight was 240kg total. So I’m looking forward to weighing the LS with all the add ons. The sump kit went on nicely. Came with bolts , pick up and dip stick.
  14. Time to pull the L28 engine and gear box out. It’s a good opportunity to redo the brake lines and run a new clutch line to hook up to the new gearbox. Time to clean up the engine bay of all things not required and fresh coat of paint. I haven’t had a fuel gauge in this car before. So now is a good time to fit one. eBay. The gear box measures up ok to fit and gear shifter is close to standard position. im choosing to make my own gearbox mount once it’s fitted.
  15. While waiting for things to come together. There’s lots of things I need to put this hole conversion together. I found eBay a great way of searching for parts. Bosh fuel pump will get the job done. The LS will need nearly 60psi. I’ve upped the fuel line to 3/8in Another thing to consider was what type of throddle body control to use. I already had a cable running of my peddle box. But I was able to get a flyby wire peddle that I could mount to the peddle box. This is going to work much better when I get the wiring Lume and also for computer setting when tuning.
  16. Thanks Peter. Mick’s been running his LS as a wet sump for years and hasn’t had a problem. The sump we’ve ordered is fully gated and proven in the States. The engine mounts are from Dirty Dingo. Just trying to work out weather the gear shifter will come out close to std position.
  17. Hey Peter, I don’t think I’ll run reverse light. I didn’t have them on the L28. ive been searching the forum and found a few guys have done this. Albeit not much detail. I’ve been in touch with Mick from Tassie , he’s been racing his road reg 240z with a LS1 for over 10 years now. We’ve meet a few times over the years when groups of us from the car club have gone over to Tassie for a week of awesome driving. Mick buy the way is coming to the Bathurst Challenge this year 50th Anniversary of the Zed 2019. Mick ownes and runs CarLine Mufflers in Devonport. Mick kindly offered to make a set of headers making it on his car will save some time. Also talking to Mick about engine mount and sumps he advised on some kits out of the States. So mounts and sump kits ordered.
  18. Yes the LS motors respond well to a mild cam, good exhaust and some head work. so costing this out ,the dollars started to climb. A friend of a friend had an LS he’d bought for a project but had changed his plans and the motor was no longer required. Ls2 with cam and valve spring upgrades. LS3 heads and head studs. Tremic 6speed and twin plate clutch. Everything in need. we did the deal. And lucky for me a good mate wanted the VX ss . Now to make a list of all the associated parts I would need for the conversion.
  19. My mate was selling his VX commodore SS . It’s stock with a twin plate clutch and of cause a 6spd manual. This will be my starting point. Take all the running gear out of this and sell the rest as a roller with out the drive train. Stock standard the LS1 would only be a small hp gain on the 300hp L28 but much more torque. so if I’m going to do this I’m going to need more power. Enquires have been made. lots of photos on the web, and heaps of these LS swaps into Zeds done in the USA and quite a few road going Zeds in Aus as well.
  20. So after a little research and manly the cheapest option was to go to the dark side and have chosen to do an LS swap.
  21. Its been a while , but stuff is still happening. After Bathurst Challange 2018 it got me thinking. Ive been running an L28 for a long time now. So i started looking into what other options where out there. Theirs the monster stroker from Les Collins. 3.5lt. around 375hp. Then the RB option. Maybe a Peter Mac Build. the horse power could be anything you want, as we've seen. Then the LS swap, endless options. So yes , something is happening, just have to tie up a few loose ends before i can say which direction i have chosen
  22. Looks like a nice cruse. I Should be there.
  23. Very Interesting to see how much went into the development
  24. When the summer comes around I’ll have my bike legs back and we’ll go for a ride for sure.
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