Riceburner

That's a good time for Sandown Lurch, no doubt the Island should be interesting. Does this mean it's now a threeway death race between You, Me, and Simon lol

It'll be customized to suit the Ricey

I think it's very close to the rally zed paint scheme in terms of the layout, so I would stay close to that styling but extend the pin stripe past the doors to the back of the car. Maybe even do the rear spoiler in blue as well......

It's driven very rarely on weekends and track days. I've actually changed my mind on the color scheme . I've been trawling through images on the net and have decided to go with the Toyota 2000gt Shelby race car color scheme. I think it's a little less 'look at moi' and will be a lot easier to do on my car considering it's already white to begin with. What do you think guys, With numbers or without? Hoping to have it ready for the NDSOC concours later in the year

Adam here is a pic. Three screws in the rear storage area then two up the very front adjacent to radio. The screws are just black counter sunk metal threads, no washers on mine. They end up flush with the bottom of the console. This is for a 72 model, the early model cars had a different console.

I've still got some time to make up my mind, if I do it I will have all the decals but no spotties or giant mudflaps. Wonder if my brother would consider loaning me his Halda twin master........ could make it very unique!! Does anyone know the correct color code (red) for the monte carlo rally cars? Some more interior shots, New Kenmeri hakosuka knob, compe steering wheel, calander clock/rally clock? I'm not sure..

And more...

One too many sugars in you morning coffee Simon I spent the rest of the weekend rust proofing and the putting the front of the car back together. While doing this I started thinking about colors, originally I was just going to keep the same combo but now I am seriously thinking about doing a works rally replica I am interested to hear your opinions......

Sounds exactly the same as when my right rear stub axle sheared off leaving the half shaft flopping around, scary sound and you must be happy it wasn't while you were doing 100kph! Did it do much damage? I was able to sop straight away so nothing else got wrecked.

Very cool, reminds me of an F1 wheel with the shift lights, all you need is a mini diagram of the circut on there! What was the approx co$t if you don't mind saying...

Hello Pete, fancy seeing you on here hehe.

I only wear mini's must be something else It's a 'dorian' records lap times. Thanks, Yeah sticking with white it easy to clean, it's also Japans racing color, will paint tail light surround, spoilers, metallic graphite to match whell centres. It's a second hand stock import motor from japan, unknown hp... It goes ok, excellent drive out of corners (thanks torsen) but engine struggles up high, 4th 5th gear. The carbs were purchased as two sets of four $370 for 8carbs, $100 for silicone couplers, made the manifold myself so was very cheap, 42mm I.D. no chokes, all knife edged from the factory. They are so easy to work on, very torqy, never had to sync them since they've been fitted, just need a head to match them in the top end. They are good economy wise unless your heavy footed which I am. I was meant to do the mott sprint but that bloody panel shop...... Phillip Island is the next meet, hopefully there will be a few zeds there

Yep, I belive thats the 74 works rally grind

Thanks Simon, I was hoping to only put pretty pics up after it had been repaired, but they f#*ked me around since march so I was fed up and removed the car. Will have to wait til after Phillip Island before I can get the repairs/respray done :'( Very very disappointing!! Can we name and shame?? Cause I would never use these people and hate for somone to get the same treatment I did! Dimitri, I have some nostalgic stickers (tokyo datsun, nchk motor sports 'ok', sport corner 'r') that I might put under the hood So perhaps it should be stealthy riceburner...

More pics

I have recently pirchased from Japan some NOS fender mirrors, Kenmeri hako 5spd gearknob, centre console, large front spoiler, rear 'victory' spoiler. Here it is at the shop today.... Sad, lonely and half naked :'(

Hi guys I thought it was about time I posted my story or build thread. Actually it's more of a continuous improvement plan than a build or resto. Anyhoo, I got my Fairlady back in 2001 for six grand, this was at a time when they still produced the trading post on paper and many a zed was to be found inside the pages Oh how times have changed! It's plated as a November 73 model, was mostly original with a three speed auto and had been stored by the owner for his daughter but she didn't want an old car so turned her nose up at it.... Jackpot me Mods since I've had it include, Manual conversion, L28 P90 F54 block with 72 deg cam, BMW 8 inch balancer, six 42mm kehin vp carbs on 40mm custom manifold, extractors into twin megaphone exhaust, Scorcher elec dizzy, Aluminium rad with twin thermos, 260 5spd, SWM lightened flywheel and heavy duty clutch, R180 4.1 Torsen LSD, gear reduction starter, Coil overs with KYB inserts, R31 rear and hilux front brakes, braided lines all round, offset bump steer spacers, offset delrin control arm bushes, JDM chrome headlight covers, factory 'compe' steering wheel, calander clock, cobra race seats, six point roll cage with side intrusion bars, Konig Rewinds 16x8 with bridgestone re55s all round. Oh... and push button start, thanks to Dimitri's tutorial! I was hoping to post some pics of it freshly painted but after battling with the panel beater since march and having it left there for six weeks without any work I have decided to remove it from there shop and go elsewhere So old ones will have to do for now

I have decided to go for the 74 works rally grind in combination with Peter doing some special headwork on the standard P90. According to the specs I think the 74 should come on around 3500 and go to7500, its road reg but is hardly driven on the road. Thanks guys I do really appreciate all the info and advice, has helped a lot

Ooooh thats close, thanks Dimitri

So the wade 74 sounds a bit better suited to my L28, provided I get your wizard work on the ports and weld up chambers? Also are Kameari valve springs ok for this? they are rated to 9000rpm, spring length 40-41mm, cam lift 8-9mm.....

Thanks Pete I notice the 74deg works rally is very close to the 76, is that useable too? Also will this work on my bottom end until I can build up the overbored block?

hehe More Power!! Is 76 going to be an undriveable beast below 3500rpm?

Had a change of plan after chatting with Peter. First, I'll get him to work the head and do the 76cam at the same time, then build a bottom end slowly with 87.5 or 88mm pistons and some other goodies

According to Stuart Wilkins there will be plenty of clearance! Yay

I want to fit a Wade 76 degree cam into my L28 is there anyway of telling if the valves will hit the pistons? It's a p90 head and f54 block with flat top pistons, wade said cam lift is 344 on the lobe and 521 at the valve???