DevilZ

Sorry Craig your going to have to loose the points awarded. Rick just called me up this morning to tell me the cars off to Stylerod Pannels. The hotrod place someone recommended. Rick said the cars too moddified for him and its a little out of his league. Pete from Stylerod pannels is taking it now and will do it. His suppose to be really good, everyone from the suspension people to other repairers reckon his the best around. Ricks a nice guy but I think his suited to spraying cars only. My car doesn't seem very damaged, just some bent pannels which they can source new from Nissan Australia, cracked engine mounts and bent front right suspension. Chassistec have checked the chassis and its all straight and all that was needed were some new pannels (door, front guard and bonnet), engine mounts and suspension(steering rack, strut, shock, machine disk). So I was a bit confussed as to why Rick decided he couldn't do it now, especially since he had every pannel off your car etc..? My car is just a straight pannel sway and spray from what him and chassistec have said. But all his said to me is the car is out of his league and too modified with my engine, suspension and brakes for him to do. So the car is off to Stylerod today and hopefully back at home in a few weeks time.

I know Performance Exhaust in Ringwood used to sell mufflers with a butterfly in them. They wer a particular brand that made them. Also the Mitsubishi GTO's came factory with them fitted to some models. Used to have an electronic control in cabin to change settings.

The Z went off to Ted Naylor yesterday. Thanks for the contact Craige. He's taken a look at the car and says its easily repairable. Looks like no damage to the chassis at all and just a matter of changing a few pannels and suspension parts. He reckons its less then 10k all up. In a couple of weeks it should be back and ready for the next sprint event.

Thanks guys. I'll try Craig's guy first, then go down through the list if they dont seem right. Looking at the damage last night it just looks like a few bent panels. The hits come nowhere near the chassis and even the frame where the door bolts onto looks fine. It should just need a new door, front quaters, bonnet and front suspension. Will be back on the road in no time, hopefully for the first lot of track days. I'm hoping nissan still make the pannels so I can get brand new ones. Very lucky to get away with such minor damage really. I got full comprehensive insurance coving me to 23k so should be all good to get everything to even better then before.

Thanks for the details. Yours too Lurch I will give them both a call once the insurnace guy calls me. Craig you did get to see my car. It was the blue one at the meet at Sulio's factory.

Well I was driving along at 60km\h just past a speed camera and this X5 pulls out right infront of me cutting off my car. I have big brakes on the car so I wasn't worried, just pushed on the brakes and then changed lanes and drove past them. Didn't bother flashing my lights or beeping......didn't really think much of it. Then I look in my rear view and see this tosser is a s15 200sx come flying up behind me and come up beside me. His reving his car so the blow off valves going and he's yelling i'm going to kill you and is swerving his car at me really franticly trying push me off the road. I'm like what the hell, had no idea what his problem is or anything so I just dumped it to second and took off to get away from this pshyco. So I went flying up the road and this 200sx is trying to go with me, chasing me but I'm a fair bit ahead as my Z is like 165rwkw. So as soon as I pass the intersection ahead I jump back on the brakes as its ridiculous speeding on public roads....even if this guys chasing me if anyone gets hurt by my car its me going to jail. So I slow right down to 60km/h again, then I look in my mirrors and his still comming speeding up the road. He then pulls along side me again helling something about baby onboard and his going to kill me again. Then again his starts swerving at my car and this time hits the front of mine with the side of his. I just jump on the brakes and turn to do a U turn to get away from this idiot as his ramming my car. Then the X5 comes and smashed straight into my door/front fender. The guy comes running out of his car and starts punching and attacking me through the window, so I get out push him away. He then goes to the X5 (turns out to be his wifes car) gets a half meter long maglite torch and starts swinging that at me. I just walk off the raod as everyone has come out of there house by now to witness this and go to a lady on the side to call the police which she had already done. The guy continues to attack me, choking me and things infront of everyone and I'm not doing a single thing back. I could have dropped him so fast but didn't just put my hands up and let him keep attacking me. All I said was your going to go to jail for this as I know the penalties for road rage are massive. He just kept continuing till the police arrived. All the witnesses just told them how I didn't fight back and he was still going nuts while the police where there......He then threw up. The cops took photo's and all and that was that. They sent a tow truck around to pick up my car and the X5 and I go in on Wednesday to give a statement to the police. This loser is looking for some serious jail time. Mean while shannons will get my car sorted for repairs and they will chase him and his wife for the money as it doesn't look like an accident. All I need now is to find a good repairer. The impact of the crash was so violent that it dislodge the battery even which bent one of the pro series ram tubes !!! By looking at road rage inccidents on the net where ppl have just punched someone and got a year in jail......this guy is looking at some serious time.

Hi, I was after the best smash repairer of Z cars in Melbourne? My immaculate 260z fuel injected stroker 3.1 was smash into by an absolute tool in a 200sx swerving into my car trying to ram it off the road !!! Followed by a BMW X5 ramming my drivers side door and front quater panel. Basically the drivers side door, front quater, bonnet and front suspension are damaged. There was also damaged caused by the lunatic hitting the car afterwards! As for the frame, that will be checked out by a professional at some stage as this only happen last night. I'm insured with Shannons and as my car was rammed repeatedly and the police have the people involved it wont be a problem. I just want to know where the best place to have it fixed in Melbourne is? I spent 8 years building this car in my garage and I would like it repaired by the best. Just shows how many idiots there are on the roads. 8 years building my car to have some pshyco ram it off the road before I got to even track it......Well looks like jail time for him anyway, especially after the assult with a weapon that followed.

If you need another Z, I should be able to make it up that day?

No its okay. I can see where your comming from but he what he is claiming just doesn't seem possible. I can understand why he could stick with the eights down the straight. He had high corner speeds and so got good runs down the straight. The reason why people with Z's go to triple webbers induction over twin SU's is because they need more air for there engines. A cars power comes from the amount of air it can flow into the cylinders right. The twin SU's will easilly stop him achieving the power he is claiming because no matter how good his head is etc..... the SU's cant flow enough air. His limited by the mods he can run because his in the Historics. Hence the stock brakes, twin SU's, 2.6L etc...he can only run what the car came with. So with regards to his engine there isn't a lot more he can do to it. I'll give you an example. Dimitri off this forum was putting out something like 145rwkw from his L28 with triple throttle body injection and a lot of other mods. Thats less power then this guy is claiming from his 2.6L with twin SU's. I see 3.1L race engines even struggle to put out those power figures.

I dont think the L28 in Japan was running twin SU carbs or any carbs for that matter. Hahhaha he must have like a 250 shot of NOS !!! Seriously this guys Z doesn't put out 225rwhp. I can garuntee you that. Cars with twin SU's and 2.6L cant produce that power. You can make a dyno read whatever you want. I can dump correction factors in to make a dyno read out my Z as putting out 20000000 rwhp. Its not realistic though. Anything running a 7.8 is incredibly fast. Do you have a link to its run? I'd love to take a look.

I really think he was being a bit over optimistic. I reckon 225 engine HP would be more realistic. Like what woud he have done to the origional motor. Okay so modified heads with port work. The valves should already be large enough but even still say larger valves. Then high comp pistons, modified ignition and an exhaust system. Nothing much else he could really do and that would take him to 300 engine HP? I really do think he wasn't quoting accurate figures. According to what he was saying, he would be making about 115 HP per litre from a single over head cam engine with twin 2 inch carbs. I think a lot of guys who have done a lot of engine development on L-series engines would agree its not possible to achieve with these modifications unless the dyno has its compesation values played with.

I spoke to the owner too and he told me he had 225rwhp with the 2.6 and twin SU's but is that actually possible?? 225rwhp is like what around what, about the 175rwkw? I dont think twin SU's can flow that much right? Plus its only 2.6 litre capacity.

I have a 1976. So it will have the later model struts in it. I tried a whiteline rear strut brace as they make one but just specify 260z, not whether it is for a 2 seater or 4 seater etc...... That didn't fit as it was slightly too long. With the cusco's i'm a bit reluctant as it cost $250 and then i'll probably have to modify them to get them to fit. There used to be a lot of places to get them 5 years ago but most of them have shut down and dont do them anymore.

Is anyone selling a rear strut brace for a 260z 2 seater or know where I can get one and the cost?

Hi......your tires do seem like they could be part of your problem. Here's another racing site: http://www.vcmc.ca/forum/archive/index.php?t-4538.html They are saying the correct temperature range for V70 tyres are between 70 - 96 degrees C. You might have to find tyres with a lower operating temperature or just run straight out radials in the end. If the semi slicks dont make temperature they are just like using bald tyres. I'd be looking at getting the right tyres as a starting point before doing any drastic suspension work as it will be hard to acurately pick out suspension issues while the tyres aren't working right.

Hi just had a bit of time today so I did a quick google search on the Kumho's for you. I'm not sure on what exact tyre from kumho your running? (i.e what series of semi slick) The link below is taken from a tyre supplier of kumho's. http://firesport.com.au/kumho-ku36-ecsta-xs-semi-race-wheels-shock-brakes--ad125558.htm For this particular semi-slick of kumho they are saying the optimum running temperature is 205 Fahrenheit which is about 96 celcius. Maybe your tyres aren't hitting temp thus making you lose front end grip and pushing stright through corners? Here's another link below straight from Kumho motorsport on how to adjust setups for the tyres etc.... http://www.fsport.com.au/fsport_siteroot/tyretech.html

Are you after the D bushing on the sway bar and/or the little olives on the ends aswell? Also as its energy suspension I'm guessing your after poly-urathanes? The olives are easy to get as they are fairly generic in size.....autobarn sell them as I bought a set of 8 for $2.50 each in poly-urathanes off the shelf. Not sure if they stock the D bushings tho or if they can order them. Whiteline might be worth a call if not.

ZedMan240 how much power did you engine produce with this setup?

Yep I am new and I wasn't the person that started firing off at ppl. That wasn't for my own amusement I think those comments were for everyones benifit. Who goes around saying what ppl posted based on personal experience is wrong and pritty much tries to stand over everyones input as being invlid. In reality you cant give advice on spring rates, camber and castor etc.... without knowing some key things like for starters, the cars weight, ride height, drive line, tyre sizes, weather the koni's have been revalved, weather the rack and steering knuckles were modified to take a V6 chev engine, was the cross member modified to do any suspension relocation during the engine swap. all i'm saying is dont dish it out to ppl if you cant take it. I've seen 3 post in this thread where his tried to shoot down ppl and his just been talking crap. That's my input to this thread and I hope someone does come along and help this guy with his handling issues. But just from experience if you got problems with tyre scrubbing you can either try different tyres first or spend a few thousand and change your whole suspension setup......

Hahahahah actually Lurch I dont think you know what a track car is. A road going EVO on street radials will smoke your 4 seater station wagon anyday of the week. Hahaha sorry but its just the facts. Yes I've used Kumho's and yes they are crap. They are a cheap crappy tyres and yes I've used other much better tyres like yokohama Advans and Bridgestone Potenza semi-slicks. Actually even used Hoosiers from the states too. I like the way your asking up on spring rates etc...etc... You dont even know what the weight of his chev engine replacement is along with its positioning. Sorry champ but all your doing is talking crap like your an expert when infact your just talking crap........and yes I know your thinking the question and yes without a doubt my Z will smoke yours

Hi Steve, I was just curious as to what differential you are using in your car. Also when you talk about your car wanting to plough straight ahead when cornering, is this when you are only on the throttle, on the brakes, rolling or does it do it in all 3 cases? I was also wondering what width tyres you are running front and back? Kumho's aren't a very good tyre in general and they will wear very fast. I've seen a street driven Evo 7 go through a new set of Kumho Escta's in 5,000kms and those were warn to the wires. Your tyre combination and size will make a huge difference to what you want to achieve. Semi-slicks are also only good if they get to the right temperature range, which i'msure you already know. If there not hot enough you will spear straight on every time......

It will be alright doing it the quick way. Only the one bolt. Your clutch and flywheel could be thrown out of wack by that much anyway if not balanced rightor if you forget to release the key when starting and chip a tooth on the ring gear etc... Also if your clutch doesn't wear evenly. Should be ok, its just the one bolt........

Ohhh its just the pressure plate bolt......Hahahaha I was thinking the flywheel bolt (i.e the 6 big ones that bolt to the crank) Na the presure plate bolt wont matter too much at all. Tho if it was balanced using them it will be very very slightly unbalanced now. Other then that the one bolt shouldn't matter.

RAHAHAHAHA That's sooooo funny !!! Yes there is a good chance the flywheel will come loose with just 5 out of 6 bolts. Especially if the flywheel does not sit perfectly flush against the back on the crank after drilling it. Snapping a pressure plate bolt is fairly hard !!! Were you using like a 8 meter breaker bar !?!?!?!!?

.