DevilZ

Hi, No problems. My numbers at the topofthe post. Actually I'll remove it from there and PM it to you. Raj

Hey Demetri, I haven't heard anything from you? If anyone else wants the parts just let me know. Raj

No worries guys. Just give me a call and we will sort it out.

Hey, Since sold my Z, I need to get rid of all the parts I have around the place. If anyones interested give me a call. Strictly pickup only however as I wont be mailing parts. I'm located in Box Hill in Melb. I need to clear space so everything has to go. I have a set of 6 flat top Atsugi pistons with 83mm tops. Dont know if they are worth anything? Set of 6 conrods from a 280z with dish top pistons. 280z crankshaft Standard castor rods with poly bushes Standard front sway bar Standard front brakes and rotors Air conditioning unit from 260z 2/1/2 inch sports muffler and flange 260z vented bonnet 260z clock (not working i'm guessing) Starter motor Some other assorted parts like head bolts etc... Call me on ........ if interested before the end of the week as I will dispose of whats left. Raj

SOLD !!!! To a very good buyer too so I'm glad to see the Z is in good hands!

Hi, Thanks for the advice guys. I don't want to put a 2.6l back in there though because with these size multi throttle bodies it wont run nice. I actually sold the car to a guy that was suppose to pick it up today for $21800 including a roadworthy certificate but he just called me back today and says he wants to test drive the car again because his not sure why he isn't excited about buying the car. I was even good enough to not get a deposit from him before spending $600 on a roadworthy.....big mistake. So this car is still for sale as far as I can see because he looks to be backing out. Anyone interested better get in quick though. At $21800 with a roadworthy and a years rego I think a car with this engine is an absolute bargain. Here's the spec sheet I drew up for him on what is on the car right now (I was even giving him a second set of suspension all height adjustable with 300zx twin turbo 4 spot capilipers and rotors along with a rear disk brake setup all in the price) Anyway here is the spec sheet. The car has only done 4000kms since being built with this engine. Engine Management • Wolf 3D version 4 ecu with handcontroller • Bosch throttle position sensor • Custom thermostat housing to take water temp sensor • Ambient Air temp sensor • Twin thermo fans • Dyno Tuned for 98 unleaded fuel only (BP Ultimate) Intake • EFI Hardware 6 48mm throttle bodies with race linkages and bosch motorsport 350hp injectors and pro series ram tubes • Custom cable drive accelerator linkage • Custom taper bored 3 piece intake manifold Ignition • Custom trigger wheel and modified underdrive pully • Halleffects sensor • Tripple coil packs • Hugo igniter module • Custom ignition leads Cylinder Head • Ported cylinder heads (match ported to intake manifold an headers) • Larger exhaust valve with self lubricating guides • Competition valve springs and matching lashpads • Dowled adjustable cam sprocket • 74 degree reground camshaft (clive cams) • ARP head stud kit Short block • L28 block with over bored cylinders and tunnel bored crank main bearings with screw in oil gallery plugs • Baffled race sump • LD28 (stroker) crankshaft with one piece nose, screw in oil gallery plugs, reground and resized journals to match block and conrods • L24 conrods shotpeend, resized, polished and weighted with 9mm ARP rod bolts, brass bushed little end to take full floating pistons and redrilled for oiling • JCC full floating pistons (KA24) with ceramic coated tops • NDC tri-metal race bearings with oil grooves • Tomie 2mm metal head gasket • Tomie high volume oil pump • Fully balanced engine including flywheel/clutch and pully • Nulon 15-40w mineral based oil only ever used Exhaust • Extractors (mixer style) with 1 5/8 inch primarys 2inch secondarys and 2.5 inch final. Fully thermo wrapped • Stainless steel mandrel bent 2.5 inch custom system Fuel System • Rollercell lift pump • Bosch motorsport 400hp fuel pump • Custom Surge Tank • Bosch petrol filters • Bosch fuel pressure regulator Driveline • Custom billet steel flywheel • Excedy heavy duty organic clutch and pressure plate (R33 skyline GTS-T) • Cusco MZ one way lsd (s14 200sx upgrade spec) with custom half shafts (only use Castrol fully synthetic oil) • Adjustable differential stay • 280zx gearbox Suspension and Brakes • 17x7 +40 offset wheels with custom hub adapters (4x114.3 stud pattern in and 4x100 stud pattern out) • Poly Urethane bushings • Whiteline sway bar • Adjustable Castor Rods • Front strut brace • Lowered king springs • Tokico top adjustable shock absorbers • Toyota Hilux 4 spot calipers • DBA slotted and ventilated front rotors (R31 skyline spec with remachined hub and redrilled bolt pattern)

Hi Guys, Still haven't had a serious buyer for the car. I'm quiet motivated to sell as I'm really not drivingthe car. So someone is going to get the chance to snap up a bargain. I'll look at considering offers above 21k, which is a fraction of what a car like this costs to build. So for those of you interested drop me a personal message with an offer. If the car doesn't sell soon, it will have to have the rego pulled off and left to sit in my garage for a few year. Raj

Hi, I haven't set-up the tacho from a RB but I converted my Z to use a 3-coil direct crank ignition driven from a Wolf ECU. I had to have the origional tacho modified by a gauge expert for it to work, to be able to accept the signal comming out fom the ECU. I'm thinking yor have to do the same. The place I used is over in Ringwood in Melbourne. Think it is called Spedometer Gauges. Raj

Hi, Feel free to contact me if your interested. My number is on carsales. cheers, Raj

Yeah I agree. I think i will price it down to 30k and leave it there for a while. See how much interest it sparks. All my friends think I'm crazy to sell the car. I'm thinking I'll make this the final price drop and if it doesn't sell i'll just start to track race it. thanks for the input guys! Raj

Hi, Thanks for the link to the UK site. Might give it a try. Hahahah 5k is the highest offer to date! Raj

Hi, I appreaciate the responses guys. To be honest the car is insured for 28k with shannons. I'd be happy to take a figure in the 25-30k price range. I know I've spent a lot more then that on the car and it does have some rare parts that will be hard to get even now if people wanted but it's all relitive to what someone is willing to pay. I don't need the cash and I could leave it parked in the garage but I'd rather sell it to someone that really wants it. I think 17-22k is too low however. It's just one of those cars thats hard to get a serious buyer on. There isn't a big market for Datsuns in Australia, if it was an american muscel car it would be gone by now. I might have to give japan a shot at some stage too if it gets too long. Well if anyone is interested just rop me a message, its definately one of the fastest on the street with an L-series. The multi throttle fuel injection system with 3 coil ignition and computer is over 8k itself all up. Raj

Hi, I haven't really had many calls on the car and its still for sale. I'm open to offeres. At what price would someone on the forum want it for? It's in immaculate condition and very quick, however I dont really get the chance to drive it too much so its just eatting money on insurance and rego every year. If it doesn't sell int he next few months i'll be pulling the rego off and leaving it parked in the garage, so offers are welcome. Raj

Hi! It's been a while since I ported on the site but i've decided to sell my 260z. Its a blue, 2-seater 3.1L stroker with a multi throttle body setup. The cars advertised on carsales with full details and pictures. I'm open to reasonable offers given a car like this is very hard to get a hold of and costs a lot of money and time to build. Here's the link. http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?Cr=3&R=8668872&keywords=&trecs=86&__Ns=pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__sid=12B54D9224AA&__Nne=15&__Qpb=true&seot=1&__N=1216 1282 4294966615&silo=1011 cheers

Ohhh yeah, I complete forgot GTR's are 4WD. With the RX-8 and MX5 boxes i've heard some bad things about how fragile they are from a mazda specialist. I do put out a fair bit of torque being a stroker engine so i'm keen to find something strong. The Altezza box adaption could be a good option. Still I'd be keen to see someone run it first and if possible just pay for a complete conversion or be supplied with all the parts........I'm getting lazy now a days and dont feel like doing my own conversions

Hi Thomo260. Numbers would be great if its not too much trouble. DatZed. I'm not too clued up about MX-5 gearboxes. Do there ratio's come out right? I'm sitting on 300hp so i'm not sure if the gears will be too short? I'd really prefer to go down the lines of a tried and tested set-up. I don't want to run into too much trouble getting the box in and doing a lot of re-engineering of cross members etc.... Is the 6 speed from a GTR a easy/possible adaption? I hear the GTS-T 5 speeds are suppose to be a fairly simple conversion, so I'm wondering how the GTR box will go.

I'd be incredibly interested in having a 6 speed made up. Do you know who built your friends gearbox? Does anyone know of any other 6 speed conversions out there or suggestions on whats the best 6 speed to have adapted?

Ohhh I just read Revs first post again. Sorry but I got a vented bonnet.

I'll just pop a price up for both you guys. I think $150 for the bonnet and $40 for the extractors will do if your keen. Both have been used.

Hey, I have a set of used extractors. They are really old genie extractors, 1,1/4 primary and 2inch secondary I also have a vented and fluted bonnet for sale.

I think I found what the problem is with the wire getting hot. It's suppose to have black fusible wire, rated at 80amp but at some stage someone has replaced it with yellow fusible wire, rated at 60 amps only. As its a slowburnign fuse its holding up bu will eventually burn out. I'm suprised its lasted the last eight years actually. I think with all the ECU, multi coil ignition, fuel pumps and electric thermo gear i'm running its got a much higher current drawtaking its toll on the already small fuse. I'll swap it to black and see how it goes.

Hi. No I dont think its the regulator because I have a new one only about a year old. Its the new type too, smaller solid unit. Yeah when I pulled the connector off there is a fair bit of corrosion on both the connector and the terminal. Do you reckon I need to replace both? I'm not sure where I could get a new fusible link block from.

Hey, I took my z out for a drive today and I had an issue where the alternator was charging as shown on the gauge but the current wont make its way back to the battery as the voltage on my ECU was reading 11.5 and wont go up. After I jiggled a few wires around on the fuse block (thing) in the engine bay and back of the alternator, it came good. (reads 12 and will go upto 13.2 with revs). When I got home I noticed that the yellow wire (the one labled black) on the fuse block in the engine bay (thing?) is getting really hot and smoking. I tried swapping wires but the new wire will also get hot too. I included a picture so you know what I'm talking about. Its the first wire, the yellow (labeled black) one attached to ACC. If anyone knows what the issue is, it will be appreciated. Does anyone else find that wire gets hot?

Hey I was thinking of running at that event. Does anyone know what CAMS licence is needed? Is it the Level 2 speed events licence?

I've spoken to some race teams and they advised me not to run an oil cooler. They said that on most of there race cars they remove them and the only things they really have running oil coolers are there NASCARS. They explained to me there reasoning is that if the cars radiator is efficient enough then its not needed. This is because the block and oil are suppose to transfer there heat to the coolant, which obvoiusly gets cooled through the radiator. They told me they see more problems caused by people running oil coolers and they remove most of them from the vehicles they have racing. Though opposite to what I was told by them I have noticed a lot of new production cars (even fords/holdens) come with oil coolers for just straight out road cars If you were just planning not to run it in winter but in summer, then just cover it instead of removing it.