PeterAllen

As someone mentioned earlier there is a bit of twist in that area. Some of the 250 GTO kits crack right at that point. I would be looking for something with a bit of give. Have you considered lead wiping - not really all that hard for a one-off try.

1. Yes, you're right. I remembered I was trying to mount my diff higher, I just got confused as to why! 2. You uncouth country boy, no wonder they sent you home.

"...bloody freezing last night..." in Townsville! Yeh sure, I believe you. Here is the normal configuration of the bushes. There's probably not too much of an issue with the way they fitted them other than a harsher transmission of forces to the car shell. In fact, there are a few positives; it lowers the car the thickness of the bushes (10mm) and it probably limits the up and down rotation at the nose of the diff. I wouldn't bother to change them unless I was replacing the moustache bar bushes - something you should consider.

I'll post a photo of mine when I get back from Pebble Beach in August - just hope the saliva doesn't get into the camera!

The first two look like Calder and the rest Winton. The name is Fernando D'Alberto.

David - You have gone from being a mere Legend to a Dead Set Legend. Great work.

Scott - That's not my car. Just some photos a friend took on the day.

With permission of the photographer

That's great information, perhaps I didn't persevere enough. The original Holden fitting is a 'latch type' and requires the tool, and perhaps seeing no tabs on the body of my Russell fitting (like the the Holden fuel rail fittings) I assumed (wrongly) it was a 'latch type' - I can't find it at the moment but the photo above seem to indicate it is a two tab fitting with the tabs outside the body of the fitting. Thanks, and apologies for suggesting it was otherwise.

Just a note of caution. I purchased one of those just to see how they would go and when fitted to the Holden in-tank pump there was no room to use the special release tool thingo. In other word they would go on but not come off! They only seem to work on the rails where there is room to manoeuvre the removal tool. Just check if you intend to use them on the fuel pump. I reverted back to the Holden lines I removed from my donor car. I also went to a wreckers and cut off a few male ends and used them in the fuel system as well.

Right from the word go I wanted dual exhaust to complement my LS1 so I've removed the spare wheel well and plan a non-standard fuel tank - the drawing is with the fabricator and it should be made this week. The other consideration I have is wanting as many off-the-shelf Holden (GM) bits as I can so there will be few dramas finding replacement parts. So, I made up an adaptor for the new tank which will allow me to use the original LS1 in-tank pump. If you still want to use the Datsun tank then you might want to consider welding in the section of a Holden tank which mounts the fuel pump (see photos)

Tim - Glad to see you're being a man and using a vernier caliper and not those sissy dial, or even worst, digital calipers.

My Alfa Motorsport fibreglass doors arrived this very morning. No rust!

I was going to raise the issue of brinelling of the rollers in the universal if you don't has at least 3-4 degrees angle on the uni. If you are not aware of it then it's probably best you research it for a better explanation than I could provide. Regards

I wasn't able to follow your description exactly, but are you saying you have a perfectly straight alignment of the tailshaft in both 'x' and 'y' planes?

Dream on... She has her eyes on tomorrow - Mothers' Day! I'm surprised after 35 years YOU still don't get it!

Try the UK, Australian or Japanese eBay sites. Freight cost will be high.

Perhaps someone can confirm or correct me on this. I was told never to use aerosol puncture repair, apparently it sets like concrete and will damage rims, alloy rims in particular.

Ben - If you are making up a diffuser and fuel tank a new wheel well should be a piece of cake. With the well removed I have just found it so much easier to work in that area. There is no way i would ever permanently seal that space.

Without knowing the "other things" it's a bit hard to offer options. I am going with a removable cover simply to get at the "other things" when I need to - in my case fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter charcoal canister, diff, exhaust, etc. A simple sheet metal cover with a few ribs rolled in to create rigidity and secured with half a dozen Dzus fasteners. I can actually include a 50mm recess which will help reduce the area the new spare wheel will intrude into the luggage space. I can't quite decide what spare to carry. I believe the Mazda Space-Saver wheel is 4 x 114.3 but I don't know if it will clear the bigger brakes.

I'm after a pair of 240Z doors that I would like to rework. Rusted, damaged, skinless, it doesn't matter. No fittings required - in some ways the worse the better so I will not feel guilty. Thanks Does anyone know of complete fibreglass doors here in Oz?

Tim - Leave yourself plenty of time to fit new rack bushes. It appears there are several casting profiles of the rack making it sometimes difficult to match the bushes to the rack profile. You may find it necessary to sculpture the outer edges of the bore profile of the new bushes (sharp knife or hot wire) to suit your rack. I THINK (always dangerous) the bushes supplied now are all 260Z bushes but as many 240Z were simply fitted with the different profile 260Z racks if a new one was needed you could be okay. The photos might illustrate what I mean. The red bushes were on the car when I got it; someone was merely too lazy to reshape the bore to fit the rack. The new black bush was the same profile as the red one and needed to be reshaped. The cylindrical bore bush should be okay. Hope yours mate up well but just letting you know what may be ahead.

The BMW V12 in the US is fitted to a 280Z, an S30 not an S31, but it has the wheelbase extended 100mm to both match the 250 GTO replica body and also to accommodate the engine. Even with that the firewall had been extensively modified to make it all fit. It think you might find it comes under an 'Individually Constructed Vehicle' here in Oz and would be a major engineering and financial project. If it's a one-owner it sounds perfect for an original restoration.

I chased around locally but there were few suppliers - Total Tools wanted over $200. I purchased one from the US and it was here inside a week.

Apologies for not seeing this earlier but you might want to consider purchasing a flanging tool (Poms call 'em Jogglers). Might be handy is you have a few lap joints to prepare. I find mine very useful as it also has a metal hole punch capability. I use the holes as weld locations. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEIKO-PRO-HAND-FLANGE-PUNCH-CRIMP-TOOL-SWIVEL-HEAD-NEW-/360355892177?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e6e28bd1