Pedro

Hi as above set of 4x280zx alloys. WITH original NUTS. also with tyres (tyres are old and need replacing) in good nic. great for a spare set or everyday set for your s30/s130 they wash up nicely - sorry about dirty pics, look neat cleaned and on my 260z pickup Adelaide (fullarton, 5063) preferred , or can e-go at your cost; $100 ono 41797_8c345e104e0804d7f409cb7c5a6c2304eab70a0f.doc

This is now sold!

indoor is sold Outdoor IS still available Car seat covers are available

i might have to take some photos. The pages are mostly connected together but the carboard outer is basically disconnected from the pages. Its really fine, as you have it open on a page anyways so i dont see a problem in terms of using it for information. Its just not pretty this way.

$20 delivered au wide. Hardcover but spine is gone but its all there pages wise. No need for it anymore.

its like cloth; keeps dust etc out - prevents the need to wash zed etc.

FOR SALE - indoor cover - SOLD - outdoor all weather car cover similar but a synthetic for stopping elements / water etc - $30 brand new aunger, never used. FOR SALE will fit 2+2 - 2x front seat lambswool seat covers charcoal, never actually used, one maybe minimally sat on car in storage largely, $30; STILL AVAILABLEemail me for pics at petergrantsheehan@hotmail.com All plus post. Cheers, Peter

sold!

Hi, I have sold my zed and this i noticed is one item i have left over. I think it was around $100 about 5 years ago. barely used (excellent condition); How does $60 posted au wide sound?or $50 pickup (Canberra). Cheers, Peter

I think - Stick to what the japanese are doing. From what i can tell there appears to be roughly 4 widely accepted and tasteful body types at play that are long term acceptable; full stock/steelies hub caps/full original G-nose/flares stock body/flares/fibreglass or poly front spoiler stock body/fibreglass-or poly front spoiler in each case chrome bumpers and rubbers (ignoring g-nose); chrome trim where it always was (doors/windscreen/hatch). Mirrors dont matter as long as they are period (unless you are moving them to the guards). And dont move them to the guards unless you really want to. There is nothing wrong with embracing the way it was delivered to AU dealers. Wheels wise each for each of the above combos watanabe have recommened rim sizes for; it seems 14" is slowly getting abandoned for 15" in japan (and worldwide) due to rubber costs and lack of sizes and makers; With the exception of flared zeds, 16/17 inch wheels longer term are likely to be less desirable in terms of originality/look. As for wings; i dare say they wont hinder things but they wont be ultimtely desirable long term. Mechanically - In Japan RB conversions are actually well regarded for S30s; they are really not seen as a bad thing. so people need not be scared of them other than the power/weight they produce. But really. its your car. do what you want. If you dont know what you want; do as the japanese do. I never did too much in the way of mos but always though if it's a modification make sure it looks like it belongs there.

thanks for all the interest! deposit taken.

thanks for the kind words guys. Believe me its taken 6m to get the courage to list here! right now its only listed here. Also - - it is currently registered (SA) till december - it is currently located in Canberra with me.

It’s hard to do but my 260z coupe of 16 years needs to go. I no longer have anywhere to garage it and there is no way I could keep it outside of a garage so the time has come. First some basics: - Datsun 260z coupe 12/75 registered on SA plates - Bought and owned since 1996 (it was my first car). Driven around 10000km total since 1996. - Silver (the car was factory delivered silver) with black interior - Original matching #’s L26 fitted with early 240z carburettors with new K&N filters. - Car has only ever been driven on the street. - LOTS PHOTOS HERE -> http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/432-r/library/Datsun%20260z%20NEW?sort=3&page=1 In rough chronological order almost everything has been replaced: Body The body was painted around 2003. It has been since spent all its time fully covered in a shed. The car was rust proofed in a previous life, and it shows. The only rust ever removed even then was only superficial. At the time I still decided to acid dip the doors, hood lids, and hatch at the time. All still remain rust free. And to demonstrate how little rust it ever had, in 10 years only one dog leg is showing a tiny bit of superficial bubbling (which can get tidied up cheaply). It has a fibreglass front spoiler, and I have the original front indicator panels if wanted. - Around a year ago I bought a full set of brand new stainless steel bars front and rear - All original badging - All new rubbers - all original chrome trim - Hella headlights Mechanical-Motor/box/diff - I had the original matching #'s L26 motor rebuilt in around 2002 by Southcotts’ in South Australia (a reputable motor builder) to stock trim. It is the original motor and it was its first rebuild. Since then it’s done around 10000kms. The Radiator was re-cored, 16” electric fan fitted, A/C removed. If not all - most hoses new. As part of the rebuild also I fitted a 280zx electronic dizzy and Crane Ignition Fire Coil. rebuilt starter motor - The car was originally an auto. I bought the parts out of a 260z coupe (pedal box etc) and has the gearbox fully rebuilt around the same time, It’s a 5 speed coupe gearbox. Flywheel lighted also. New clutch fitted at the time also. A couple of month ago I put fresh redline MT90 in it. Box is very tight (obviously). - Mechanical fuel pump removed, electric installed in the rear by the tank. - Rebuilt 7/8 master cylinder around the same time. - About a year ago I put in a R200 4.11 ratio long nose diff to finish of the mechanical package. The ring gear was described as mint by the diff builder. - ZX alternator. Brakes/springs/suspension - Mad dat in the Adelaide hills overhauled the entire braking system around 12 months ago - Brake bleed, New drum shoes in rear - Front - S13 vented discs fitted to vented s12+8 calipers which have just had all the seals replaced a few weeks ago and re-bled. Fitted with new ferrodo 3000 pads - Installed new front wheel bearings , regreased lower control arms - Bump steer spacers installed. - Installed new king spring lows (have original springs still) and poly bump stops. - Have a full hyperflex poly bushes kit and a few have been installed but many haven’t and will be included with the sale. Wheels and tyres - All done in last 12 months. - Tyres all as new - Rear wheels bought Brand new direct from watanabe in japan 15x8 zero offset. - Front are second hand genuine watanabe 15x7paint matched to the rears. - Genuine watanabe wheel nuts AND lock nuts. $ Interior -refurbished steering wheel, new handbrake boot, new rear deck carpet, new shifter boot, brand NEW genuine OEM centre console. - have installed black NC MX5 seats on original rails. Have kept the original seats but you would never go back. - brand new AU seat belts - MX406 McIntosh head unit ( not a misprint). - rear speakers – one in the original position plus inverted bracket installed on opposite side with speaker there too. - factory OEM electric aerial with factory toggle switch - Headlight harness upgrade - newly wrapped door skins - fully restored dashboard I think that’s enough for now – there is plenty there for now. It’s getting a carby tune today. $20,000

zedman. i think you are on this one. I'm thinking thats the issue. i just need to get to an auto store to get some new globes and polish the points where they meet the sockets.

normally i would consider giving it a go. but i have no tools etc (at all!) in CBR and thus am a bit out of sorts in that regard. I think in this instance its wiser for me to pay for the job.

Hi all, my indicators randomly died on me on the weekend. i checked the fuse (fine) and replaced anyway and this didn't help. when flicking on left or right there is no ticking noise, no green arrows lighting on the dash. i replaced a flasher unit a while back so im doubting its that. Everything else works perfectly on the stalk (lights, wipers, dash lights etc etc). I was thinking simply taking it off, cleaning it all and putting it back on. Is there is quick 3 step process (or soemthing) to identify what might be wrong? Cheers Peter

can anyone recommend a place to get hitachis (early round top) carbs tuned in canberra? mine are a bit off song and need some fine tuning, Cheers, peter

its man's stuff. just the way it is. take the air conditioner off - its 15kg over the front wheels. that helps.

Fyi. Went with hpr 10. 10w-50 Seems logical from what I've read elsewhere. I run 15w hpr in Adelaide weather.

bringing the 260z coupe to coldberra. i am wondering is a lighter engine oil better for this climate? eg 10W? cooooold morning starts concern me a bit. what would be recommended - was thinking the penrite line (with the zinc) in a 10W - something. cheers

Im about to put redline in. i have a question on capacity for 260z box. Do you put 1.5L in or 2L ?The service book says 1.5, but elsewhere i read 2L. is 2L a problem or is this a strict thing? looking for maximum protection (least wear)? Its hard also as i do it on ramps so you need to keep an eye on the bottle level to know how much you put in. and no dipstick from what i can see. cheers

ok. thanks for the tips. the culprit was that the positive terminal was touching the bonnet (just) as the battery was chocked up so that the original battery clamp could do its thing (physical battery was obviously a little shorter than the factory one. i have now sorted it out with a smaller chock under the battery. thanks again!

Was driving along , some smoke started coming out if the engine bay and then the car stalled. The main ground wire (from the valve cover to the car body) was melted (all the plastic melted off and the wire itself is left there). What could have happened ? Looking for any help on this one. [*] [*]

great idea. fastener may be the go for this, or hardware possibly. Will report back on this screw.

Ok, i have lost a screw in the process of re-installing my door skin on the drivers side. It is long gone and a rare screw. Its not one you can get easily. see below for which one. http://s1178.beta.photobucket.com/user/432-r/media/KGrHqFh0E68grt9bBO8sRLuKuw60_57_zpsc5677ade.jpg.html It bolts in the chrome plate to the door itself (holds the chrome surround for the internal door handle). If anyone is dismantling a 260/240 door i would be happy to buy the chrome plate just to get this screw. Its a very short screw and is philips head. Its the last thing i need to put my door back together. Many thanks, you can call me on 0488166961 or PM me. would be awesome to get this stinkin door finished! Peter