Pedro

hey roberto/all, i like the idea of a L28 but am trying to avoid 'hanging' my L26 in the shed since its been nicely rebuilt. I dont really have the room. And power wise, i think w can get enough poke out of the 26. for me anyway. I will try and work out the piston type, but i dont have the tool to take the photo so not sure what i am going to do on that one. screw driver test i guess. I am going to softly keep researching assuming dished.

Ideally, the block is rebuilt and matching #s and in the engine bay so would like to use it. Basically i want some more compression and cam wise would like to get her to rev to 6500-7000. 6500 would be fine, 7k would be amazing. Right now it runs out of breathe at the normal 5.8-6k for an L26; If its already got flattops in then that is a good start - head wise i figured i would match the 83mm bore with the head only because my understanding is this is probably my best bet. I have read the L24E had a head with a peanut shape to it, "e88" specific to the L24E? ideally if that bolts on and gets my compression to 9.5 or so, then i can simply select a cam and i am going to be able to achieve my goal fairly easily. If it has dished pistons i dont know what to do. there would be the option of putting in flattops ($$$), or head shaving and the like to get to 9.5:1; The head on it is the E88 (12/1975) so i figure this isnt ideal for quench. Aim will be around 9.5-10:1 so its streetable and not too grumpy, can hold idle. i always run 98 octane.

Hi, i was reading through the following head timeline to try and work out my performance head options. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=6012.0 My question is: My L26 was freshly rebuild to factory specifications (a number of years ago now but lo mileage since) The car is a 12/75 260z It was the orginal matching numbers motor and its first rebuild (car still has original wet legs!) The car was issued with a L26 and E88 head combo (note above build date) according to the above chart this would suggest on a std rebuild that flattop pistons went in. Something tells me that many L26s around this time have dished pistons though. Basically Whether it has dished or flattop will change the head route i take. anyone know which is more likely? or a way to find out? (cheaply easily) cheers, Peter

hamsandwich speaks sense. well said. there is nothing more special when done, but $ wise its a blowout.

ok. thanks. That was a good thread you found. to be clear - it looks like the pics show they are talking about the tyre fouling spings (rim seems ok ). I wonder if the tyre was a 205/60 tyre it might clear? This sounds a bit too close

some jap wheels have come up in 8.5J (+6) rear with 225 50 15 tyres now they are pretty epic and obviously a guard roll is in order. opinions please especially on fitament. sounds like from what is said above they will be ok. Haul - the thing is with 14" tyres. They are pricey and selection is poor. And its only going to get worse. Its not 'now' i'm worried about, its in a few years. If i splash out on a set of 14" japanese rims and then go to get tyres in 3 years and they have doubled in price i will be disappointed i think. The 15s should provide a long term solution with more choice around tyres and still be close to 'period correct; in terms of sizing. 14's being smack on. I think its the right thing to do.

14x6 series 1 280zx wheels (+11?) MSA 14" bumper steer spacers S13 discs and hilux +8 calipers The arm rubs on the bottom edge of the inside of the wheel. only by a few mm. Its due to the bump steer spacer. I ordered the ones for 14" wheels. Re the 225, i quite like the look of the 205 brought in a little. no silly stretched just a little. 225s are on the cards later though. Also re handling, same size rubber all round is better, and i wont go 225 on the front. cheers/

ok. I have bolt on wheel spacers on the front from Benzed (otomoto). Basically i needed them to get home from my s13/hilux conversion as my 14's touched. so bit the bullet and bought some as i wasnt ready to buy wider wheels yet. They are 20mm. I know people who drift and race on them - they increase your stance/width at the front and improve handling (help with understeer). There is no safety issue with buying high quality bolt on wheel spacers from my research and advice i have received from racers. They have been tested and used under race conditions. the slip on ones i wouldnt touch but bolt is a different affair. There is a lot of mis information out there on them. But re the legality, thats something will need to check with your authorites. Benzed will stand behind the quality of their wheel spacers i am sure. i have a photo if you want to see them installed.

choors Dat2kman. I figured that must be the case but most threads dont speak of running 205s too much on the back; I figured down the track i can get some 225 if i want and roll then. My aim for now is 205/60 keeping with rolling diameter on the back, Peter

basically was thinking about 15" wheels. I started a thread on 14" tyres but tyre difficulties has me thinking 15" rims are the go. I dont want 16s (look too big to me unless you run flares - which i wont be doing). So basically here is the situation - 260z coupe - no flairs - kings low (claimed 30mm drop) in the rear and front My question is related to the rear. Can 15x8 (zero offset) wheels be run with 205/60 and no guard rolling? (ie will it fit without rolling the guards?). And look right (not too wide for the guards). I notice that 225 sometimes needs a roll. Was going to avoid guard rolling for now. I guess my question is more about fit/guard rolling 15x8s; many thnaks Peter

will entertain offers?

Hi, i am chasing the shorter strut tops used in the 260z strut top replacement (as posted by Lurch in Suspension "sticky"). Basically they will be in later modelled 260z 2+2 or coupe. I had some King springs low installed and the rear is sitting a bit high in my 260z coupe (12/75 build) if anyone has a dismantled 260z and thus has some around let us know. cheers, Peter

They are for a 2.8 or better on a worked 2.8; The howl they emit is nice though. I used to get 320-350km out of a tank around town and i am not scared of the throttle.

these are sold!

ok. the 12/1975 260z runs the early "240z" rear single drums. for all to know cheers, had my shoes relined. cheers for the advice.

bump for price drop!

Just bought some spacers off Benzed, he didnt seem too fussed on hubcentric so i wont have the hubcentric adaptors there. Dealing with Ben at least i know it will be right!

Many thanks, lost the better part of a day try to wrok this out. Hubcentric the go or just normal flat? was thinking hubcentric.

I am trying to get to the bottom iof this and i cant get a clear answer that is the hub bore on the front brakes for a 260z coope? I am trying to buy bolt on spacers. I am led to believe the 66.1 centre bore is what i need. I planned on buying "Hub centric" - i assume also this is the right thing to do? many thanks, Peter

Price drop $100 delivered in au!!

Hi, hot water burst this morning so going to sell a couple a couple of things, starting with these; A pair of Hawk HP Plus race pads for 240z 260z - HB169N.560 brand new. HP Plus - Autocross & Track Brake Compound Hawk Performance’s HP Plus brake pad compound is ideal for Autocross and Track Day drivers looking for a high performance race compound that can take the heat of the track and get you home safely without having to change the pads. http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hpplus.php I paid $139 from memory plus delivery, i would take $110 including delivery australia wide. cheers Peter pm me for details.

Nice to have a technical answer. at this stage i was hoping to hear from anyone who has run that setup on both 7/8, 15/16. The concept i understand, and the application is more street than track. cheers, Peter

Hi, my car in undergoing this conversion. 4x4 hilux calipers with vented S13 rotors. standard rear drums. My question is my 7/8 M/C is functioning well, and i didnt really want to change it but will if it wont work very well. 15/16 seems like overkill to me. plenty of people run 7/8 on silvia with a GTR brake conversion all round (4 front and 2 rear) and it reportedly works very well. opinions please. I am a bit 2 ways about it. A 15/16 new is about $175 but i wonder if its worth it if my 7/8 is going strong. cheers, Peter

Hi, I was wondering; Is there two different types of drums/drum linings (shoes) for 240z / 260z ? As in my car is a 12/75 260z A friend has a set of brake shoes which he said were for 260z but mentioned that it depends on which drums i have (early or late) ? I thought there was only one drum / drum lining for all 260z? was there an early 260z shoe/drum and late? Any info appreciated on this one. Wont be able to check before the car goes in for a brake overhaul so thought i should ask first. Thanks again, Peter

exactly on the diametres. I couldnt get it to 'rotate' all i could achieve was jiggling the driveshaft (that was the most i could do) in which case i needed the groove to line up as it was. Since the 260z sleeve has the groove on the exact opposite side to the DR, i had to use the DR sleeve in this instance. Otherwise the sleeves are identical. Both myself and my old man spent some time examining the two and thats the only difference we could find - the opposite position of the groove. Like Gareth, the groove could be cut on the opposite side but i hadnt got to that point. i switched back to original sleeve and red 4.11 cog and the groove and bolt lined up perfect. The 260z sleeve doesn't work it seems with the red 4.11 cog unless you cut your own groove. cheers all.