Zedback

I think I've still got the four of these I took off my shell, they'll have holes where the two spot welds were drilled. Not going to use them so you can have them. But ...I have to find them first

Zanzee, I don't get on here much but I'm about half a minute away from you (just off 2nd hill on Thompson Rd). I'm no expert but PM me if you need a hand. Mike

I'm in - email sent.

Very nice. Would be keen on a pair (L+R). Any plans for a matching lower radiator support?

Stevo,check out what I did with the locks on the '73 http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3987.msg92189.html#msg92189

Stevo, give me a call on the weekend. Can probably fix you up with headlight bucket and dash skin, might swap your hatch too if it's fixable. Bring cash, I need petrol money for a road trip to Sydney!

Congratulations Zanzee!! Very shiny and black. My daily driver is very shiny black too ...under all the Greenbank dust!!

I bought the MSA "40-2640E Upholstery Kit, Black, 70-71 240Z 1 $209.95" (2 seats) along with a few rubber seals in late 2010 and the shipping was $142.49 which I didn't think was too bad. If I recall though the foam inserts are very bulky and did push the shipping up past $500. Are your foam inserts too far gone to reuse or even to use as patterns to carve new ones from yourself? I gather it's messy but DIY doable.

Thanks all for your input, a member has contacted me and unless something miraculously pops up in Bris (ie. Z-Shop) I'll take his - just have to figure out how to get it up here from Sydney! enzo250GTO that's a nice looking ride. No matter what route I choose it's going to be a lot of work, but I like the lines of the kit I think to minimise the engineering compliance issues I'll patch up and weld the rear quarters back on. If I get anywhere with this I'll post it up in the project thread, though at the rate I go that might be six months or more

Agree, would be a bit flimsy left as it is. Question is do I just clean up and weld the rear quarters and a sheet tail panel on or do something else like some sort of surrogate spaceframe shaped to the inside of the fibreglass?

Yeah, that's why I thought maybe I'd fill some of the holes with fibreglass

I'm seriously considering a 250GTO kit on the '71 shell I'm trying to bring back from the dead. If anyone has one that has been gathering dust for too long in South East Qld (or has the ability to freight to SEQ) please let me know. Sacriligous some may cry but I won't exactly be ruining a perfectly good Z...

Was a bit of a cold wet weekend but got a little bit more done. Fitted mudflaps front and rear, quarter panel badges and cleaned the windows. The H4 headlights make a significant difference too! Have also fitted up a new 2.5" exhaust and shiny TBC headers. New front ball joints and anti-roll bar bushes finished off the suspension, and fitted new rear brake shoes. Reset the carbies and it runs up and down the driveway pretty good. Really down to the last few bits and pieces - none of it really interesting enough to post much about... The most exciting thisng this year has been putting up some additional shed space to store the all-too-many-projects in. 3000x200x50 treated sleepers make a, relatively cheap yet solid floor. It's also easy to relocate and I had to move an existig shed to build this one made from two singles joined down the middle. As stated earlier she's up for sale. The Morris needs attention and there's another 2 rust buckets in need of a lot of work, the '71 240z and another abandoned classic that caught my attention - a 1959 Jag Mk1...

Congrats Stevo! I reckon your old man has earn't the bit of a drive he got I doubt you'll leave it that way for long but looking at the pics I really like the aged look and the steel wheels - it's got a real look of classic history to it Hope you'll get yourself out to some motorkhana's in it.

Yeah Pete I'll let it go if I'm offered a reasonable amount for it. Though after getting it running nice last weekend if I do much more I might get second thoughts, but there are so many other projects... The rocker cover is just sprayed in red heat paint, nothing special though I took a bit of care in the prep and spray. Hey Stevo, look on the bright side - you're getting a 240z, a plane ride and a road trip back. I like the nick name, I'll now refer to the '71 as the "cheese grater"!

Yes Just fitted thermal coated 3-2-1 headers, 2.5" exhaust and adjusted the carbs - running sweet. Hadn't noticed before but the L28 is an f54/n42. It's up in the air at the moment waiting for me to fit new ball joints, rear shoes and refit the front/rear sway bars.

Hey, looks like a cool project for a DIYer, though not if you were paying someone to do it for you! Early car and looks complete, other than a bit of missing sheet steel Just go for it, the hardest bit is deciding to just do it. Do all the right things like labelling and bagging parts as you dismantle it and take heaps of photos so you know how it all goes back together - it could be years before you need to remember how it goes back together! Start with the nightmare unusual rust in the roof because if you can fix that then anything else is easy. Floors, doors, ppffft ...easy You can do an amazing amount of reconstruction with some used sheet steel, a drill based nibbler, decent sized vice, multigrips and a selection of your favourite hammers. Good luck with it, can't wait to see the project log.

See Curtis240 he's got a couple for sale that are probably as low end as you'll find. Had some requests for interior shots...

EOI for a project I've been working on for the last few years that's really close to being finished. I think I like the fixing more than anything else and now that it's nearly done and is competing with so many other things the motivation to keep going is waning. If she sells I'll get stuck into the next project if not I'll finish her eventually. Basically it just needs finishing, major things being exhaust, seat belts, setting up/tuning the carbs, both front ball joints, various badges and whatever other minor things crop up... UPDATE: Fitted 2.5" exhaust and thermal barrier coated 3-2-1 headers, rear brake shoes, front sway bar and both bal joints. Reset the carbs and with the exhast runs like it should. The L28 fitted is a F54 block with N42 head and it comes with original matching number L24 for rebuild. Model: 240z Location: Brisbane Item Condition: Good - almost finished project but not a concourse resto, much is still original. Body: Good. Scratch on front RH guard where I dropped it during the rebuild :'( Will provide the rest of the 901 Silver and clear coat paint. Mechanical: Running Price and Payment Conditions: $15k Registration: no Engineers Certificate: na Contact Details: PM please Pictures:

Wondering about selling this one to fund the next project. I know I should finish it but interest has been waning of late. Any ideas on what it should be worth? If anyone's interested send me a pm. Mike.

I love the Christmas holidays, so much gets done Still a few things left to do but nearly there... Bullzeds wheels came up good with a bit of a polish and paint - gives it the old school look Another video, this time in daylight - not very exciting to watch... Fitted a 15/16" Nissan Urvan Master Cylinder to go with twin piston front callipers, fits fine just has the front-rear reversed. Down side is it's steel instead of alloy and at 1.8kg is litterally twice the weight of the stock one Not happy with the brakes yet though, pedal is very soft and the action is very on/off :-\ Had a dicky light switch, the mechanism would jam and the lights would flick on or off on their own depending on vibration. The electronic bit can be pulled apart with care The innards are pretty basic with two sping loaded plastic pins mounted in the rotating section (you can just see the 2 holes) which press down on two metal plates that act as the switches. There is a very small lip on each side of the holes for the platic pins. On mine one of these lips for the headlight contact had broken away allowing the plastic pin to fall out leaving the metal plate to flap about. I stuck a tiny amount of black silicone on each end of the wee spring in the pin, just enough to keep it in place. There are some "how-to's" on the net and one of these advised flipping the identical metal plates. By flipping them you get to use fresh, unburnt metal for the contacts. With an upgrade to H4 units running through relays headlights are better than new!

Yep, used zinc plated steel tube. Had a few practice runs and found (for this tubing anyway) that I needed to pull the tubing between 1-2mm shy of the face to get a good flare. With it flush the flared end was too thick.

dat308, I have the same problem, 7/8 master cylinder kicks in about the same time the pedal hits the floor. Was very exciting getting the Z back in the shed! Rang Repco today looking for a 15/16" JB1361, they tried ATAP, Protex and PBR for me, all of whom said they don't stock them anymore, though they do have the rebuild kits. I'm thinking I'll have to go with the 1" Patrol M/C.

Another year and another milestone! Been rebuilding suspension and brakes over the past couple of months. New springs, Tokico shocks and bushes all around. The rear lower pinion bushes have got to be the worst I've ever done, the front end is comparatively simple. Got some twin piston callipers, very noice! and a new gizmo to make up brake lines. Turns out beautiful flares... Very quick and easy to use and well worth the extra dollars for the quality. Made up a pair of hardlines and mounted up the calipers with new discs All finished! ...though I definitely need to upgrade the 7/8" master cylinder, it starts working about the same time the pedal hits the floor! I didn't get to the Qld Z Xmas drive but at dusk I couldn't resist going for a little drive of my own. It's dark, no lights, clutch is only part bled, carbies aren't tuned and there is no exhaust on the muffler ...but how cool to finally take her for a spin. Came home on a truck just under 4 years ago and hadn't previously moved since 1988.

I found the 2+2 roof skin to be substantially different from 2 seater, front edge is the same and it just gets steadily more different the further back you go. Its deeper, wider and completely different profile. I used the pillars and top frame rail from a 2+2 as donors on my 71 rustbucket - no noticeable difference other than a heap more spot welds on the later 260. I also used the side rails but with a fair bit of modification. I reckon the longer 2+2 would make for a very sleek variant of the 2 seater look - more euro GT'ish. Best bet would be hot rod sites and seriously bone up on roof chops. The rear inner and outer pillars/quarters need serious modification to lower the height of the hatch hinge panel and hatch frame. Roof side rails from the rear of the door back would have to curl down to match. Modifying the roof skin to match... priceless!